Clutch replacement with NV3550 trans. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
Giviner
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Clutch replacement with NV3550 trans.

I'll be tackling my clutch replacement this weekend with the help of a buddy. I've read over eddie's write up on 4x4xplor and I'm fairly confident we can handle the work. However, his write up was for a TJ with the AX-15 transmission, not the NV3550.

I doubt there will be any earth shattering differences between the 2 but if anyone has any tips/tricks or advice it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!


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post #2 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:32 PM
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As far as replacement process and procedure there is no difference. Remember to get reverse torx bix sockets for the top bolts on the housing. Removing the shift lever is different too. It's one bolt and the shift liver slides up off the nub. DON'T try to twist it off. The clutch fork has a clip inside it on the pivot point (opposite the clutch cylinder side) Don't lose the clip! Otherwise it's a fairly easy job. Did mine in about 4 hours.

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post #3 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:32 PM
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i'm interested as well.


What clutch are you going to run in it?

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post #4 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info fisher. I may be out of the loop but i've never heard of reverse torx bit sockets. Are you saying there are bolt heads that have the torx pattern on them, so rather than the standard 6 point socket they need a torx shaped socket?

JeepRocks, at the recommendation of a distinguished moderator here, I am using a Luk replacement clutch. I believe it's the same as the OEM clutch.

$120 + $45 shipping + $50 duty&taxes (barf)

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post #5 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:41 PM
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FYI... this is the clutch I used. It's just a regular LUK clutch replacement kit from autozone. I also just greased my pilot bearing, I didn't replace it.

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post #6 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:42 PM
Jerry Bransford
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Yep reverse torx bits are called E-Torx... as in E-10 and E-12. I don't remember which you'll need but it's either an E-10 or E-12. I bought them both from NAPA as I couldn't tell for sure which size I needed and now I can't tell by looking at them to know for sure which one I used.

Like Fisher836 said, I recommend a Luk clutch kit too, they're hard to beat. My last clutch wasn't swapped until it had nearly 167,000 miles on it and even by then it wasn't wore out yet.

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post #7 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:48 PM
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Reverse torx are just that, they are torx sockets, essential the female version of the torx socket you're used to. There's 2 of them on top of the housing. I forget the size, maybe 8MM. I had to lower the t-case and transmission to get to them, you may not. If you don’t get the reverse torx sockets and try to use a regular socket on them (like I initially tried) you risk stripping those bolts. I bought them from autozone used the ones I needed, cleaned them up and took em back.... I only found them in a socket set and they are a tad costly.

E-12 is really ringing a bell not that you mention it.

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post #8 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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thx Jerry..........you were the "distinguished moderator" I was referring to anyway.

fisher, do you know exactly where that bolt is for the shift lever? Can you see it from underneath or is it hard to get at?

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post #9 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 12:57 PM
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as soon as you slide the boot up away from the plastic on the shifter console, you'll see it. It's very easy to get to from simply just sitting in the drivers seat. You'll need an allen wrench. Again, not sure what size.

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post #10 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 01:43 PM
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When I replaced my clutch in my 99 (AX-15, so I'm not sure if it's the same), I used about 6 feet of 3/4" socket extensions. I just went in from above my transfer case in the back, and it worked great! Needed a second set of hands to make sure the socket stayed on the bolt, but other than that the whole replacement was a one person job.
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post #11 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 02:20 PM
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I can confirm that it's an E-12. Once you get them out, make sure to replace them with normal bolts once you are ready to bolt it back up.

As for tips...a friend and I did mine in about 6hrs total. 2 of those hours were spent trying to get the damn pilot bearing out. Make sure you get a good tool to remove the old bearing. The grease trick didn't work for us no matter what we did.

MAke sure to grease the throwout bearing and shaft, and also under the "fork" inside the bellhousing.

Also, we ran into a minor problem trying to re-dock the tranny. First, when they say to make sure the tranny is in neutral, there is a reason. I forgot, and that made things a tad more difficult. Not too bad, but still a minor PITA. Also, one of the alignment pins was really tight on the inspection plate. I had to use a mallet to get the pin started so we could dock the tranny completely.

Other than that, it was fairly easy, just time consuming. Good luck!
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post #12 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 02:23 PM
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One more thing, I don't think there is any reason to unbolt the shifter. I didn't think of that until DaOne mentioned his wasn't in neutral. Leaving it bolted on will just make it easier to see if it's in neutral.
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post #13 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sahara Man
One more thing, I don't think there is any reason to unbolt the shifter. I didn't think of that until DaOne mentioned his wasn't in neutral. Leaving it bolted on will just make it easier to see if it's in neutral.
I may be wrong, but I believe on mine (also the NV3550), I had to unbolt the shifter. There was no "unlocking" it with that ring or whatever.
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post #14 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaOne
I may be wrong, but I believe on mine (also the NV3550), I had to unbolt the shifter. There was no "unlocking" it with that ring or whatever.
That is correct, the quickest and easiest way is to unbolt the shifter.

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post #15 of 23 Old 12-12-2007, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton guys. That was extremely helpful!

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