Cluster/HVAC Lights - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 09-19-2019, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
bblaylock13
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Cluster/HVAC Lights

Hello,

I recently purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It has an aftermarket radio and new taillights. #1 fuse keeps blowing after 1-5 minutes of being replaced. When the fuse blows headlights, brake lights (when braking), radio, interior dome light and floor lights still work. When the fuse blows I lose cluster lights, HVAC lights and shifter back lighting. Headlights continue to work as does the radio though as mentioned. Not sure what it can be, tried many things already. TIA.

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post #2 of 22 Old 09-19-2019, 09:36 AM
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I will try to help - wiring is intuitive to me.

FUse #1 in the jubction box (in cab) ?

New tail lights - hopefully NOT some POS LED's? I walk away from those kinds of issues...

At every start - does security light, and airbag light come on @3 seconds then go out?
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 22 Old 09-19-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, in cab fuse #1, and no they are just new plastic housing with regular bulbs and yes airbag, parking brake and not sure on the other light, could be security light, I can check if that helps. Just trying to fix it myself before I bring it to the mechanic and spend the big money on hourly.

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post #4 of 22 Old 09-19-2019, 04:29 PM
Jonny Jeep
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Fuse 1 supplies the front and rear marker lights, and the sentry key module (if fitted).
It does power the dash/HVAC back-lighting but that is via the dimmer control and fuse 3 behind the glove box.


The problem you have is most likely in the marker light circuit. Have a look at the bulbs and sockets front and rear. Look for corrosion and any signs of the bulbs looking bad. You could even see if the fuse blows with all the marker light bulbs removed. If it does you'd have a wiring fault somewhere. Since it has new taillights, it might be worth removing them so you can check the wiring to ensure it wasn't damaged in any way when the new units were fitted.
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post #5 of 22 Old 09-19-2019, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
Fuse 1 supplies the front and rear marker lights, and the sentry key module (if fitted).
It does power the dash/HVAC back-lighting but that is via the dimmer control and fuse 3 behind the glove box.


The problem you have is most likely in the marker light circuit. Have a look at the bulbs and sockets front and rear. Look for corrosion and any signs of the bulbs looking bad. You could even see if the fuse blows with all the marker light bulbs removed. If it does you'd have a wiring fault somewhere. Since it has new taillights, it might be worth removing them so you can check the wiring to ensure it wasn't damaged in any way when the new units were fitted.
I will check this tomorrow and get back to you, thanks!

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post #6 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 04:20 AM
jtec
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I was following this -
do you need diagrams?
Is there any added electrical on jeep, esp lighting... something added ?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
I was following this -
do you need diagrams?
Is there any added electrical on jeep, esp lighting... something added ?
I’ll take them if you have them, I’ll take whatever help I can get lol and just regular Sylvania headlights, upgrade from factory but not LED, and the regular fog lights which work but I cannot use them when fuse #1 blows

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post #8 of 22 Old 09-20-2019, 07:11 PM
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First question, are you using the correct size fuse (not just what was in there before)? A dead short will blow instantly. An overload takes time.

You might want to put an (adequate size) ammeter in that circuit. The PO may have connected something else to it and it is drawing excess current but not dead short for example a big amplifier.

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post #9 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 05:33 AM
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hope it helps?
let me know of I missed a diagram..


If you need translation - just ask several colleagues can help with reading them.
Attached Thumbnails
99tj headlight sw.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 99TJ fuse 1.pdf (38.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: pdf 99TJ C202 A.pdf (226.3 KB, 3 views)
File Type: pdf 99TJ headlamp sw 1.pdf (47.3 KB, 2 views)

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #10 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 05:37 AM
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Oh yeah to add -- my bet is - anything not original something added - and I think you mentioned audio system my #1 suspect, #2 sometthing mentioned about fog lamps?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 06:58 AM
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Audio system illumination isn't on fuse 1 directly. It is via the dimmer and fuse #3, which would blow before fuse 1 does.
Feed for the coil of fog lamp relay #2 comes from the marker light circuit so fuse 1 blowing prevents the fog lights operating.


The fault should only be at the marker lights or in their wiring. If nothing extra has been added to the marker light circuit, that's the only places it can be.
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
Audio system illumination isn't on fuse 1 directly. It is via the dimmer and fuse #3, which would blow before fuse 1 does.
Feed for the coil of fog lamp relay #2 comes from the marker light circuit so fuse 1 blowing prevents the fog lights operating.


The fault should only be at the marker lights or in their wiring. If nothing extra has been added to the marker light circuit, that's the only places it can be.
you may have just saved me a lot of tearing apart lol took all bulbs out besides headlights and put them in 1 by 1 besides 2 marker lights on outside of fenders. Left those two out completely and Jeep ran for over 5 minutes without blowing fuse #1 which was its limit before just about. Driver side bulb was black and when bulb is inserted the filament glows but does not light up, put the bulb from the other side in and nothing, then go to passenger side with same results, going to try new bulbs and if nothing, cut the wires at the housing and buy a new housing/wire part for both. Still have to drive it around to really test it so if it blows again I’ll update here. Will also update when/if I buy the new market light part.

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post #13 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 05:06 PM
jtec
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let me clear that #1 suspect up..

The installation of the radio as suspect -

having no idea where they tapped power. My mental image is attached, wire crimps and 3m scotch locks, not a direct plug into jeep audio harness.
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #14 of 22 Old 09-21-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well after 1 minute into my drive fuse #1 blew again, lasted longer when just parked for some reason

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post #15 of 22 Old 09-22-2019, 09:17 AM
jtec
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OOPs - after rereading the posts for something missed-

I misread original I thought the RADIO would NOT work, leading me on a bad trail.

Any evidence of a prior body (accident) repair?

I will regroup and post.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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