Clean out sludge in oil >> new tj Q - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-25-2016, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
Reddog212
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Clean out sludge in oil >> new tj Q

Hi.

Just bought another tj after 4 yrs driving other stuff.
Unfortunately, it seems the previous owner did not change the oil enough.
(The mechanic said it came out like mud.)

He recommended me to drive with the new oil for about 1500 miles then add some oil cleaner, drive 100 miles more, then get the oil changed again.

Thoughts?

Products?

Much appreciated. - Red

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post #2 of 10 Old 06-25-2016, 09:14 PM
2jhanna
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You can try some of the cleaner/flushes, I don't know that I would drive at all though. Maybe ideal for a few minutes.

Some of the oil change shops have a "motor vac flush machine", I believe it's called. Don't know either good or bad though.

I believe I would just change the oil a couple of times within a few hundred miles. Then pull the valve cover and take a look.

I am multi-talented, I can talk and piss you off at the same time.

jhanna
denton county, tx
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-25-2016, 09:36 PM
SouthernGypsy
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I routinely buy and restore old muscle cars and classic Jeeps and we see this a lot with older vehicles that have been sitting or not been maintained properly, plus things like barn finds...

Buy 2 cans of Seafoam and enough cheaper oil (not crappy, just not premium) to do 2 oil changes and enough good oil for a 3rd change. Get 3 filters.

Change oil and add half a can of Seafoam, drive it for about an hour then change the oil.

Repeat the process with the 2nd half of the can, this time changing the oil after about 2 hours of driving, but this time only add in 4 oz of the Seafoam and pour the rest into your tank.

Drive it about 500 miles and change oil as normal using the premium oil. It doesn't hurt if you want to save a few oz of the Seafoam to add 1 oz per quart of oil this time either, but this time drive it normally for the length of time you would normally go between oil changes.


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post #4 of 10 Old 06-26-2016, 07:15 AM
Dryseals
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I just went through the same thing, a ton of sludge on an engine with 101K miles. I pulled the valve cover to see just how bad it was and I had sludge all in the head too.

Filled it back with a regular oil and performed a motor flush as per directions. The oil came out looking pretty rough but after pulling the valve cover, it was still filled with sludge.

So I bought a gallon of the marvel mystery oil and a spray bottle and pulled each rocker and push rod and cleaned them all up as best I could. I kept the oil drain open and allowed the excess to pour out.

The upper sludge is what I was after, what I could see, what I couldn't see would have to come out with time. Marvel Mystery oil and SeaFoam are all just Naptha based solvents, MMO contains chlorinated solvents which I do not believe SF does. Chlorinated solvents are better at cleaning sludge but I am not one for continued use of them in my engine at the levels in MMO.

Once I had the top end cleaned up, I buttoned it back up, changed the oil and substituted one quart of MMO for oil. Drove it for 1/2 a tank of gas and drained the oil. Its was still ugly, but near as bad as the first few times. Refilled with a high milage oil (more detergents) and have driven it since.

Oil is looking better now, I check the stick every so often for clarity, haven't put 1000 miles on it since the change, but at 1K I will do another change and it should look a lot better.

Main thing, change the oil hot and lift the front just enough to ensure all the gunk at the bottom of the pan drains out, I let mine sit for a while and even tap the pan to try and free up anything in there...I didn't want to have to drop the pan in case I freed up too much sludge.
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-26-2016, 09:39 AM
TheBoogieman
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Save the Seafoam for smoking out your bad neighbors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-26-2016, 05:33 PM
hoggr
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I had the same sludge issue with my TJ, when I replaced the rear main seal and had the pan off, I went ahead and replaced the oil pump and timing chain since I was already there. Lots of sludge in the oil pan so a no brainer to replace the oil pump for peace of mind.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-27-2016, 07:16 AM
joe_jeep
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1/2 quart of trans fluid with each oil change for the next year.
Change it every 1k miles for the next couple changes.
U might try a high detergent diesel oil too.

glfwda #6624
2005 rubicon sahara lj #592
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-28-2016, 08:58 AM
JBTJ
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Want to avoid sludge? Avoid conventional motor oil.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-28-2016, 04:52 PM
TheBoogieman
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Castrol GTX.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-28-2016, 07:41 PM
Pine_Cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddog212 View Post
Products?
Keep it simple

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=ATMQT-EA

2017 JK
2016 MK- Murchison springs, ~1" BL, skinny 30s
2011 KK- H&R lift springs, OldManEmu shocks/struts, skinny 31s
2009 Sorento- H&R springs, ToyTec strut spacers, OldManEmu shocks/struts, 31s
2006 TJ budget LCG prerunner- see profile
2006 Trailblazer- EXT lift, Nth LJ 4.5" springs + Monroe rear coilovers, skinny 32s
1998 Durango- SuspMax & Roadmaster lifts, rear Truetrac, skinny 32s
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