Check Engine light Flashing, no stored codes. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-12-2020, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
Ian P.
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Check Engine light Flashing, no stored codes.

I was driving home the other day when the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero, within a few seconds the jeep died. After pulling over I checked the oil and it seemed fine(should be I only had 1500 miles since I changed it), I got it towed home and replaced the oil pressure switch and oil pump thinking maybe they were the cause but no dice. The check engine light is on and when I try to start the engine it turns over and the check engine light starts flashing. Tried to get any codes both with my OBD2 reader and with the dash but nothing is coming up. The check engine light stays on even after I disconnect the battery and touch the cables together. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 6 Old 08-12-2020, 02:50 PM
mukluk
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Start with telling us what year your TJ is, how it is equipped, and any aftermarket electronic gizmos it may have. Does the Jeep have any other problems?

Quote:
Tried to get any codes both with my OBD2 reader and with the dash but nothing is coming up.
Does the code reader connect and communicate normally with the Jeep? Is the instrument cluster working normally?

Quote:
The check engine light is on and when I try to start the engine it turns over and the check engine light starts flashing.
Does the CEL come on steady, flash ten times, then go steady again?

2000 TJ SE
2005 LJ Rubicon
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-13-2020, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
Ian P.
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It is a 2006 wrangler X.

No other problems that I know of and the only aftermarket parts are bumpers, 2 spotlights, and a Warn winch.

Cluster seems normal.

Yes it flashes 10 times
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-13-2020, 04:50 PM
mukluk
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The CEL flashing ten times then going steady again just tells you that the emissions monitors aren't set, ie, the Jeep isn't ready for an emissions test.

For a sudden loss of oil pressure followed by a no start condition on a 2006 w/4.0L, my first suspect is your OPDA drive gear or the corresponding gear on the camshaft may be stripped out. Unscrew the two screws holding the cap on your OPDA, remove the cap, then see if you can turn the tone/target wheel inside more than about ten degrees in either direction.
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-13-2020, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
Ian P.
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There is a small amount of play but I wouldn't say more than 10 degrees
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-14-2020, 03:06 PM
mukluk
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You still haven't answered whether the scanner connects and communicates with the PCM or not. Please be sure to answer all questions.

For the oil pressure issue, you can either temporarily plumb in a mechanical pressure gauge to see if it builds pressure when the engine is cranked, or you can temporarily remove the stock sender and crank the engine for a few seconds to see if oil squirts out of the hole or not. This should at least tell you whether there is a legitimate lack of oil flow or if it's an indication problem.

For your no start problem, it's time to get back to basics. Inspect the engine bay for any loose electrical connectors, damaged wiring, or any other obvious issues. Check to see if you have any blown fuses in the fuse block located forward of the glove box or in the power distribution center (PDC), which is the box located just forward of the battery. When checking fuses, it's best to pull them out and check for continuity through the fuse with a meter unless it's obvious the element is blown -- a simple visual check doesn't always find a bad fuse. Make sure the battery is fully charged and that both ends of both battery cables have clean and tight connections. When you turn the ignition to the On/Run position (do not go to Start), can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds? If you spray a shot of starter fluid down the throttle body then crank the engine over, does it briefly try to fire up?

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