Bench test a wiper motor - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
WallyDog1
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Bench test a wiper motor

I'm trying to bench test a rear wiper motor. What combination out of the 3 wires do I jump to see if the motor is working. It seems I've tried all the combinations. I tried a front motor that I have and I know it works but can't get that one to work either. Good power source.
Thanks


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post #2 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 05:13 AM
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Well, is the motor bad?

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post #3 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGrugger View Post
Well, is the motor bad?

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Like the post says...trying to bench test it. If I knew it was good or bad I wouldn't be bench testing it. I have a good one that I know works and that one won't power up by jumping either. Thanks for the help...

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post #4 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyDog1 View Post
Like the post says...trying to bench test it. If I knew it was good or bad I wouldn't be bench testing it. I have a good one that I know works and that one won't power up by jumping either. Thanks for the help...
My bad, I misread the your first post as your spare motor worked when bench tested. So yeah, sorry.

I will be interested to the see the answer to this as well, when I was bench testing mine, I couldn't get it to work either.

My issue ended up being the wiper wiring harness had come off from the column, so nothing worked.

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post #5 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 12:35 PM
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Can you identify pin numbers on the connector?

EDIT: This is for the front wiper motor. Not the rear as the OP was looking to test.



Looks to me like pin 1 needs 12V (ignition switched supply), pin 4 is ground.

To activate the wiper motor, also apply 12V to pin 3 (normal speed) or to pin 4 (fast speed). When the voltage is removed from pin 3 or 4 the motor should continue to run until it stops in the park position.
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-14-2020, 04:07 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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Jonny, you missed he is trying to test his rear wiper motor. That one has 3 wires since there is only one speed, no high & low speeds.

But Jonny is correct; you need 2 12v wires & a ground to get it to work. For your ’06 the constant (when the key is on) 12v to the motor is pin 1, grey/pink. The switched 12v is pin 3, brown/light green & pin 2, black is the ground. With 12v to pin 1 & pin 2 grounded when you put 12v to pin 3 the motor should run &, as Jonny said, when you remove 12v from pin 3 the motor should continue running until it reaches the parking position.
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-15-2020, 10:08 AM
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Thanks, for the catch Rubi. I've added a note to my post above regards what I put being for the front wiper.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-15-2020, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGrugger View Post
My bad, I misread the your first post as your spare motor worked when bench tested. So yeah, sorry.

I will be interested to the see the answer to this as well, when I was bench testing mine, I couldn't get it to work either.

My issue ended up being the wiper wiring harness had come off from the column, so nothing worked.

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That's ok! I guess I was a bit snippy! Sorry too! My step-sons one year old is here living with us. Not ideal. He runs my wife ragged and me to tears
What I'm trying to do is to find what makes the motor work because my LJ has a hardtop and no wireing to run the wiper and the defogger. I found the dash harness and the washer bottle but can't locate the harness that goes fron the dash corner to the rear. I thought if I could make the wiper motor run by hotwire I could the rig a relay and fuse it to the wiper switch and have the wiper work. The motor may be bad don't know but I can't get the one I know works to work.

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post #9 of 15 Old 08-15-2020, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
Jonny, you missed he is trying to test his rear wiper motor. That one has 3 wires since there is only one speed, no high & low speeds.

But Jonny is correct; you need 2 12v wires & a ground to get it to work. For your ’06 the constant (when the key is on) 12v to the motor is pin 1, grey/pink. The switched 12v is pin 3, brown/light green & pin 2, black is the ground. With 12v to pin 1 & pin 2 grounded when you put 12v to pin 3 the motor should run &, as Jonny said, when you remove 12v from pin 3 the motor should continue running until it reaches the parking position.
WoW! I would have thrown the thing out figuring it was bad! The first chance I get I will be on it and trying it.
THANKS!

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post #10 of 15 Old 08-15-2020, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyDog1 View Post
That's ok! I guess I was a bit snippy! Sorry too! My step-sons one year old is here living with us. Not ideal. He runs my wife ragged and me to tears
What I'm trying to do is to find what makes the motor work because my LJ has a hardtop and no wireing to run the wiper and the defogger. I found the dash harness and the washer bottle but can't locate the harness that goes fron the dash corner to the rear. I thought if I could make the wiper motor run by hotwire I could the rig a relay and fuse it to the wiper switch and have the wiper work. The motor may be bad don't know but I can't get the one I know works to work.

If you have the switch & the part of the harness that goes behind the dash including the actual wiring (connector) to the switch the rest is not hard. You do not need a relay. If you have the original wiring kit instruction sheet or have downloaded it you can see how/where they pick up the 12v power. Not shown is the inline fuse used as part of the harness that runs under the door & to the back. If not I can post.

Also you need a splice in the 12v power wire so one leg goes directly to the motor & the other to the switch for the second power source needed to have it park as explained above. Fortunately the factory & factory add on kit does that for you after it is connected through the back (C-326) connector then rerouted back out of the connector so you only need to run that wire forward from that connector to your switch.

If you have the FSM it is well diagrammed but can be a bit confusing if you miss the way the C-326 is done.

You would also probably have to run the power wire for the washer pump from the switch.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-16-2020, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Jonny & Rubi!! Thanks so much for the input!! First chance I get in the garage I'll check it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions!! thanks again!!

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post #12 of 15 Old 08-17-2020, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
If you have the switch & the part of the harness that goes behind the dash including the actual wiring (connector) to the switch the rest is not hard. You do not need a relay. If you have the original wiring kit instruction sheet or have downloaded it you can see how/where they pick up the 12v power. Not shown is the inline fuse used as part of the harness that runs under the door & to the back. If not I can post.

Also you need a splice in the 12v power wire so one leg goes directly to the motor & the other to the switch for the second power source needed to have it park as explained above. Fortunately the factory & factory add on kit does that for you after it is connected through the back (C-326) connector then rerouted back out of the connector so you only need to run that wire forward from that connector to your switch.

If you have the FSM it is well diagrammed but can be a bit confusing if you miss the way the C-326 is done.

You would also probably have to run the power wire for the washer pump from the switch.
I can't seem to get the time to get out to the garage but I thought since the laptop is handy... I have the dash harness and the washer bottle as well as the switches. Missing from the dash back. So am I correct in saying that I should be starting at the switches and taking the harness apart keeping the wiring for it only? I paid 160.00 for the dash harness! I was and still am hoping to find the rest of the wiring. The Jeep I got the dash harness from was cannibalized. Someone cut the the harness at the door hinges to the tail lights so it was missing Not sure why anyone would do that but oh well.

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post #13 of 15 Old 08-17-2020, 06:18 PM
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So are you saying you got a “complete” dash harness from a 2005/6 that that had a factory installed hardtop, not an add-on harness from the kit?

If so, you may have less work to do to complete the back section. You may then also have the defrost section going from switch to the cluster timer.(?)

Also, does it happen to have the section going to the washer tank or does it stop at one or more connectors going forward through the firewall?
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-18-2020, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
So are you saying you got a “complete” dash harness from a 2005/6 that that had a factory installed hardtop, not an add-on harness from the kit?

If so, you may have less work to do to complete the back section. You may then also have the defrost section going from switch to the cluster timer.(?)

Also, does it happen to have the section going to the washer tank or does it stop at one or more connectors going forward through the firewall?
Yes I bought the entire dash harness. I believe I have it all up front including the washer bottle. I was going to pull the dash and replace the harness with the one I bought. I was hoping to find the rest and get er done all at once so I have not really looked. I know I have the dash and switches. I'll look at it tomorrow and see what I see.
Thanks again fo the effort

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post #15 of 15 Old 08-18-2020, 07:16 PM
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If you have the harness to where it plugs in to the one(s) going forward you should then have the engine side of the defrost wiring to the PDC & should only need to add the relay & fuse there. Then, like the wipers you will only have to add the wires going back from where they were cut. I think 1 for the defrost & 3 for the wiper, maybe a ground, I would have to look to be sure.
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