Banks Straight-Shot Water-Methanol (w/Sidewinder Turbo) - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-29-2016, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
TJTurbo
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Banks Straight-Shot Water-Methanol (w/Sidewinder Turbo)

I am starting this thread with the hope I can save future readers countless hours of researching water methanol injection nozzle size calculators etc etc. If you already have the Banks Turbo installed, you might notice it does not take kindly to hot weather especially when it's floored through all the gears a/c full blast. IATs go high and you have 2 choices, intercooler or water methanol injection (possibly both). I chose water methanol injection simply because it's about 1/2 the cost of an intercooler.

The boost gauge/controller that comes the the Straight Shot system is a vast improvement over the gauge that comes with the Sidewinder. After installing a Scangauge I figured out my original boost gauge was reading about a pound under what the pcm map sensor was reading. The new boost gauge controller reads almost exactly what my Scangauge reads. Boosting at 8 pounds was not helping my IATS so I adjusted the wastegate to 7 pounds.

Using a 15 LB/HR #3 Banks nozzle (not included with the kit) set to come on at 3 lbs of boost/30% duty cycle ending at 7 lbs boost/80% duty cycle I was able to drop my IAT from 155* to 123* according to my Scangauge at full boost running windshield washer fluid. Ambient air temperature was 88*. I do not feel the "brickwall" pull the timing back safe mode anymore. My future plans include installing a wideband O2 sensor and an EGT monitor. Right now I'm more concerned with getting the power I lost back due to hot weather than trying to get more power. I went small with the injector nozzle to avoid modifying the Banks tune until I'm able. So far I'm happy with the results.

Important notes: The 12v power wire for the Straight Shot controller must be hooked to a keyed hot crank/run power source or the built in map sensor will not read correctly. If you use your washer fluid tank as the supply you will need an anti siphon check valve because when it's full the fluid level is higher than the spray nozzle.

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post #2 of 7 Old 08-29-2016, 05:59 PM
MarioM0one
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" IATs go high and you have 2 choices, intercooler or water methanol injection (possibly both)"

I would not know how or if water methanol injection would help with the hot weather problem. I can assure you that the intercooler would not help that issue. I found out the hard way that placing the intercooler radiator in front of the stock radiator caused my system to overheat. Not that in retrospect, that would be a surprise; it is blocking a substantial amount of air flow. Works fine at highway speeds. I had no problems before installing the I/C. Now that we are past the 106 weather, it has been running fine (has been in the mid 80's lately).

I will keep an eye on the thread. Perhaps the i/c-water methanol injection combo will work. Overheating problems aside, I like the turbo / i/c combination a lot. The turbo alone was a blast, without the overheating issues. But now that the i/c is installed, it would be hard to go back to the turbo alone.
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-30-2016, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
TJTurbo
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Mario, I think you may be confusing IAT (Intake Air Temperature) with ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature). Spraying a water methanol mixture into the intake will most certainly drop the intake air temperature. 😀
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-30-2016, 06:29 PM
Kiwi_TJ
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Thanks for posting this, it will be very helpful to me as I was thinking of a water / meth injection system instead of an intercooler. While an intercooler would help, my theory is that setting up a tune for water injection is a better option as when you are going slow off road, then there is not much flow past an intercooler anyway.

I will have a look at the Banks system and see how it compares to the other options that I was looking at from Snow performance and AEM electronics.

1997 TJ Soft Top/ Half Doors
4.0 I6 with 5 Speed Manual | K&N Panel Filter | D30/D44 | 3.07 Gears | Banks Torque Tube Header
31*10.5 R15 Maxxis Trepador Radial Tyres | 2" BDS Spring Lift | Bilstein 5100 Shocks | JKS Discos | JKS Rear Swaybar Links | 100W Narva Spotlights
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-30-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
TJTurbo
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You may want to go with a smaller nozzle than I'm running because I'm not really sure how much boost you are seeing off road. The smallest nozzle that comes with the Banks kit is a 30LB/HR and with me not being able to tune for it at the moment was really too much spray. That's why I dropped down to a 15. No matter where I set the controller I could feel a slight "bog" unless I set it to spray near max boost. They sell a 6 and 7 LB/HR nozzle which might be better suited for your needs. You could probably set a small nozzle like that to start spraying at 1 lb of boost and not need to re tune.
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-30-2016, 07:08 PM
MarioM0one
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJTurbo View Post
Mario, I think you may be confusing IAT (Intake Air Temperature) with ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature). Spraying a water methanol mixture into the intake will most certainly drop the intake air temperature. 😀
Ooops! you are right, I read it too fast! Thanks
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-31-2016, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
TJTurbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi_TJ View Post
Thanks for posting this, it will be very helpful to me as I was thinking of a water / meth injection system instead of an intercooler. While an intercooler would help, my theory is that setting up a tune for water injection is a better option as when you are going slow off road, then there is not much flow past an intercooler anyway.

I will have a look at the Banks system and see how it compares to the other options that I was looking at from Snow performance and AEM electronics.
Something like this may help also for when going slow. I used 1/2" thick closed cell foam pipe insulation and wrapped it with heat reflective tape.
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