Auto to Manual Transmission Swap - JeepForum.com
 12Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 23 Old 01-24-2019, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
TheFreedombird
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
Garage
Auto to Manual Transmission Swap

About 4 months ago I had a stock 3 speed auto in my Tj. Unfortunately, it was starting to go out and none of the transmission shops near me would touch it. Well I always wanted a manual transmission and always wanted to learn how to drive one. I did a bunch of research and after two weeks of knuckle busting and swearing profusely on occasion, I got it done. I am posting this now because I had never touched a transmission before, and I wanted to make sure I got the job done right before posting the details. Keep in mind I am 20, living with my mom, and I learned how to work on cars because of my Jeep. That being said you can imagine how my finances look. This was a baller on a budget project for me. If you have the money to go new on everything by all means go for it.

A couple things first. The driveshafts: I was lucky enough that I didn't have to replace them. I know some people have had to change them so be sure to take some measurements. I ran into a few problems though. With the transmission, I had to drill some new holes for the crossmember / skid plate. I also had to make a few adjustments with the stock adapter and the mount for that.

Parts List:
Ax15 5 speed transmission
New bell housing
Master / Slave cylinder for the clutch
Flywheel
Clutch Disk
Crankshaft sensor
Red and Blue Threadlocker
Transmission sealant
Clutch Pedal Assembly
Shift stick Boots
New bolts for the flywheel
Brake cleaner
Slave Cylinder bolts
Reverse light switch

There is one thing I did leave out of the parts list and that was the PCM. I left that out purposely because I didn't replace mine. You technically don't have to but your check engine light will always be on because the PCM is looking for your torque converter.


The ax15 can be found in older Cherokee’s and 90's Dodge Dakotas. I pulled mine out of a ‘92 Dakota with the shifter. I had to order the clutch pedal assembly from a used stock parts company. The bell housing I got off of ebay because it was a used advanced adapters one with and external slave cylinder mount. The bell housing came with a release fork and throw-out bearing. With the Crankshaft sensor, look at the connection type with your stock one before buying a new one. Look at the pin connection and from there, figure out the one you need. The Master and Slave was a combo kit stock replacement that was pre-bled. The flywheel was a stock replacement too. The Clutch Disk was a replacement kit that came with a new throw-out bearing, clutch cover, clutch disk, pilot bearing, and pilot bushing. The Transmission sealant is for two reasons. First, since my transmission came from a scrap yard, I took it apart, cleaned it up, and checked the gears. When I took it apart there was sealant on the seams, so I replaced it and put the trans back together. The second reason was to seal up the joint for the transfer case and ax15.

To start things off, I removed the drive shafts from the differential side, NOT the transfer case side because it was easier to do that way. This does throw things off balance when lowering and raising the transmission though. From there, I got a jack to support the back end of the transfer case. Then, I removed the nuts from the transmission adapter that goes through the cross member. After that I removed the crossmember and got a jack to support the transmission (a transmission jack is recommended).

Next, disconnect the wiring harness from both the transmission and transfer case (My speedo gear and wiring go to the transfer case not the transmission). To remove the cables, you will have to remove your center console and remove a cable off your throttle body. It will be the only cable that goes from your throttle body to your transmission. Remove your center console and disconnect the cables for the shifter. One cable goes through the firewall and another runs up to the ignition. The cable that goes through the firewall, pull it all the way through to remove it completely. As for the ignition cable, I personally left it alone and tucked it up into the dash (still trying to figure out what to do with it). Lastly, the Crankshaft position sensor is towards the top of the bell housing. You can just disconnect it for the harness. Then disconnect and remove the starter and remove the transmission cooler too. You will have to unbolt the radiator to completely remove it.

Once you have all your cables and wires disconnected remove the bolts from the transmission to the engine. If you want to you can remove the transfer case now or wait until the transmission is out (I waited). After that the trans. should just slide off the engine. Though let’s be honest, they never “just slide right off”.

Now that the transmission is out, remove the shifter from the transmission tunnel. Unbolt the transfer case from the transmission and set your auto trans aside (It is extremely heavy so use a transmission jack!). If you have already checked the ax15 or it is a new/ rebuild then bolt it to the transfer case. Mine personally had some transmission sealant on it so I stripped it off the transfer case to get a new clean surface to put some more back on when bolting the two together. Take the new bell housing and install that onto the ax15. From there install the through-out bearing to the release fork. Then install them to the bell housing while being careful not to lose the clip that hold the release fork in place.

Now to install the flywheel and clutch assembly. First, you want to install the pilot bushing and bearing into the back of the crankshaft. Be careful as there is a front and back on the bushing. Make sure you have it facing the right direction before installing it because it is a very unpleasant installation. After that, use some brake cleaner on the flywheel to remove any residue then go ahead and mount and install it. You will need new bolts for the flywheel since it is thicker than the stock drive wheel. Before threading all the flywheel bolts all the way in, apply some thread locker. The reason I say to get the flywheel in place before applying threadlocker is because the fly wheel will only go on one way and it can take a couple minutes to find the right alignment. From there, torque them down to spec. Torquing them to spec is easier with a friend because the crankshaft pulley will start to spin if nothing is holding it in place. Fortunately, I had the arm span to hold the pulley in place with a wrench while still torquing the bolts down. Get your clutch plate and the plastic piece (here, dubbed “setter”) that holds it in place. Put the setter through the clutch disk and then through your pilot bearing. Use your brake cleaner on the clutch disk cover to clean off any residue then proceed to mount and install.

The Clutch master and slave cylinder are next. There will be a diamond shaped panel on the firewall engine side next to your vacuum booster. It is held in place by two nuts inside the cab up by the gas and brake pedal assembly, cab side. Unscrew the nuts all the way and get a flathead screwdriver to pop the panel off, engine side. Get the master cylinder and install the push rod that attaches to the clutch pedal. Then using the same nuts that held the panel in place mount the master cylinder. Snake the slave cylinder down towards the flywheel.

To install the clutch pedal assembly, unbolt the brake pedal mount to lower the assembly for easy access. Replace the rod that holds the brake pedal and gas pedal together with the new clutch pedal rod while adding the clutch pedal to the lineup. Tighten it and bolt the brake pedal back up. Connect the clutch master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal. We will adjust the pushrod once the transmission is in place.

Before installing the transmission, let’s take care of the reverse light switch. In my case, I had to use a reverse light switch for the ‘92 Dakota since a new one for a jeep didn’t fit right. I cut the end connection piece off both my harness and switch. From there I wired them directly. Later on I will find a more permanent solution for this and update this. You will have to tap your neutral safety wire into one of the other wires otherwise the engine won’t start!

Now to install the Transmission. Set the dust cover on the metal grommets on the engine. Remove the placeholder for the clutch disk and slide the shaft through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing. If the splines don’t line up at first, rotate the rear drive shaft until it does. Bolt the transmission up to your torque specs. From there, install the slave cylinder to the bell housing. With the slave cylinder bolts I couldn’t find anything between online forums and the dealership, so I went with self-tapping bolts. It’s a little extreme but it works and after finding nothing that fits, that is what I was left with. Bolt the front and rear driveshafts back in. Use a jack to hold up the back end of the transfer case, remove the jack holding up the transmission and install the cross member. If you have to make any adjustments to the crossmember like I did, you will just have to figure out what works for you. Drilling was easiest for me personally but you could fab your own adapter plate, or find someone that already makes an aftermarket one. Reconnect and install the starter.

After everything is in, you can reconnect your wiring. Now keep in mind that you should only have three to connect. The ones for your speedo, reverse lights, and crankshaft position sensor. Install your inner boot, then your center console, and finally the outer boot. Before you start the engine, adjust the clutch push rod to an appropriate spot.

This is everything I did. It took my about two weeks to do. I hope anyone who is looking to do a trans-swap can find what I did useful. Keep in mind not all jeeps are the same and what worked for me might not work for you. All in all this project took about $600 to $700 to complete. If I missed anything or have any questions feel free to let me know or ask away. Shout out to my friend that doesn't know anything about cars but was still willing to proof read and edit this post for me.

The Specs of my jeep are:
2000 Wrangler Sahara
4.0 I6
Auto was a Tremec Part # TT2440L
Transfer Case NP 231 J

TheFreedombird is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 23 Old 01-24-2019, 04:03 PM
skjeep
Registered User
2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: sk - eu
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFreedombird View Post
There is one thing I did leave out of the parts list and that was the PCM. I left that out purposely because I didn't replace mine. You technically don't have to but your check engine light will always be on because the PCM is looking for your torque converter.



Not necesarily. Just take a plain automotive relay and wire its coil between ignition switched 12V and a TC control wire from PCM. The PCM will be happily switching the relay thinking it is a TC clutch
Done that many times when swapping an AW4 to TJ with 3speed tranny and keeping the stock PCM.

The wires you use are directly at the PCM


You can take the fused ignition switch 12V from the PCM plug 1 (black) - dark blue wire at cavity (pin) 2
and the TCC signal from the PCM plug 2 (white) - orange/light green wire at cavity (pin) 11
Just wire the coil side of a small automotive relay betwen the two. other contacts of relay remain unused.
After a GOOD isolation and waterproofing you can just zip tie the relay directly to the PCM harness
Jakegrovephoto likes this.
skjeep is offline  
post #3 of 23 Old 01-24-2019, 04:49 PM
Jerry Bransford
Administrator
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California
Posts: 71,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by skjeep View Post
Not necesarily. Just take a plain automotive relay and wire its coil between ignition switched 12V and a TC control wire from PCM. The PCM will be happily switching the relay thinking it is a TC clutch
Won't work, the PCM is also checking for the approx. 150 engine rpm drop it expects soon after after signaling the torque converter to lock.

P0740
Torq Conv Clu, No RPM Drop At Lockup. Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement (auto. trans. only).

Nice job TheFreedombird, that's quite a nice project you successfully accomplished. Not to mention not many 20 year olds would have the drive and abilities to complete what you did. Kudos!
Jakegrovephoto likes this.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
Jerry Bransford is offline  
 
post #4 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
TheFreedombird
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
Garage
Thanks for the support Jerry. With the PCM if I snag one out of a TJ with a stock manual I have to make sure it already was SKIM. If it doesn't then that can cause problems. The PCM part I couldn't ever find solid research on besides the fact that I don't need to replace it unless I want it to clear the engine error.
TheFreedombird is offline  
post #5 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 03:53 AM
skjeep
Registered User
2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: sk - eu
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Won't work, the PCM is also checking for the approx. 150 engine rpm drop it expects soon after after signaling the torque converter to lock.

P0740
Torq Conv Clu, No RPM Drop At Lockup. Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement (auto. trans. only).

You are correct with the code description but i dunno that it throws it w. relay and 3speed auto PCM.

With 4speed (42RLE) definitely yes, (plus bunch of other codes) as there is a lot more electronic involved



Done that on 6 swaps (2 of them from 3speed to manual and 4 from 3speed to AW4)
and none of them threw that code.

I do not want to say that it can not. Sure with manual trans playing with gas and selecting certain gear,you could simulate the correct conditions to get the code, but under normal driving conditions not.
3speed auto (32RH) has a 3rd gear ratio 1:1. That is the same as Ax15 4-th. TC lock is engaged only in 3rd when all conditions match. But that time you allready shift to 5th - causing a RPM drop.

Anyway, it is just a couple of bucks project - 2wires and a relay. So i´d give it a try
skjeep is offline  
post #6 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 07:27 AM
Ben
Registered User
 
Ben's Avatar
1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Malvern PA
Posts: 3,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFreedombird View Post
I wanted to make sure I got the job done right before posting the details. Keep in mind I am 20, living with my mom, and I learned how to work on cars because of my Jeep. That being said you can imagine how my finances look. This was a baller on a budget project for me.
There is hope for our future.
Congratulations Freedombird you've done what most don't.
Around here the answer is typically ""just sell it and get a manual" or at least thats what I was thinking when I clicked on the thread, but holy cow you pulled it off.
Well done.
zrickety and Jakegrovephoto like this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Ben is offline  
post #7 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 09:33 AM
Jerry Bransford
Administrator
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California
Posts: 71,455
Quote:
Originally Posted by skjeep View Post
You are correct with the code description but i dunno that it throws it w. relay and 3speed auto PCM.
Yes the PCM throws exactly that code I posted above with the 3-speed 32RH, I copied it right out of the 2000 Mopar Wrangler TJ FSM.
Jakegrovephoto likes this.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
Jerry Bransford is offline  
post #8 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 09:40 AM
Tophog1
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chrisnvegas' back yard!
Posts: 484
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post

Nice job TheFreedombird, that's quite a nice project you successfully accomplished. Not to mention not many 20 year olds would have the drive and abilities to complete what you did. Kudos!
Not many 20 year old kids know how to drive a stick!

USN vet, 1976-80
Moderator, Nevada Shooters
1993 YJ, 4.0, auto
1990 YJ, 4.2, auto
Tophog1 is offline  
post #9 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 09:59 AM
skjeep
Registered User
2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: sk - eu
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yes the PCM throws exactly that code I posted above with the 3-speed 32RH, I copied it right out of the 2000 Mopar Wrangler TJ FSM.

Jerry, i know the code is there. I also have a 2000 TJ FSM . So i do not argue with you whether it can or can not throw that code. I am SURE IT CAN do that. You are 100% right here


What i am trying to say is, that with the relay mod you get rid of the code P0743 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid/Trans Relay Circuits immediately after start.
And (from my own experience) 90% it will NOT throw P0740. But it can happen, i do not deny that.
@TheFreedombird : excellent job there - many happy miles with the stick.
And please if you have time and will to - do the relay mod as i have suggested before.
It is just 2 wires 15minute job and you can then post the result and finish our debate with Jerry
skjeep is offline  
post #10 of 23 Old 01-25-2019, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
TheFreedombird
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
Garage
@Ben , that was the whole reason I posted everything I did because all I was reading was just sell it and buy a manual. My jeep is my only vehicle and with the trans going out I wasn't willing to risk not getting the money for a manual.

@skjeep I will look into it in the next couple days. Right now I am just trying to make sure it is road trip ready because I am moving in april and don't want to mess with stuff that doesn't need to be fixed.

Thanks everyone for the support and ideas
Ben likes this.
TheFreedombird is offline  
post #11 of 23 Old 01-26-2019, 07:04 PM
astjp2
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 252
Hey, do you want to sell the automatic shifter, cables and brackets off of the transmission? I want to swap from the 6 speed to a 999 auto...Tim
astjp2 is offline  
post #12 of 23 Old 01-26-2019, 07:17 PM
Jerry Bransford
Administrator
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California
Posts: 71,455
PM me, I have a shifter and cable.
Attached Images
   

When you have a choice, buy American made.
Jerry Bransford is offline  
post #13 of 23 Old 04-03-2019, 05:25 AM
Bruce06Unltd
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Harrisburg
Posts: 25
Thanks for a GREAT write up. I am glad I found this thread...my '06 Unlimited (NOT Rubicon) NSG370 just blew the reverse gear. Not sure what happened, but it makes a grinding sound going forward and won't go in reverse at all. I have 160K miles on it so I will replace the clutch while I am at it (might as well) so I will have some differences, but think it can be done easier. But still not sure how I can get the compatibility questions worked out....PCM, crankshaft sensor and other wiring is above my skill level, but if I can tell my garage how it is done, I think they can do it for me.

I anyone knows of a good write up on doing a NSG370 to AX15 swap, please let me know?

Bruce
Bruce06Unltd is offline  
post #14 of 23 Old 04-03-2019, 08:04 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFreedombird View Post
Thanks for the support Jerry. With the PCM if I snag one out of a TJ with a stock manual I have to make sure it already was SKIM. If it doesn't then that can cause problems. The PCM part I couldn't ever find solid research on besides the fact that I don't need to replace it unless I want it to clear the engine error.
All of the 98+ PCM's are SKIM capable. You will have to have the new PCM programmed to pair with your current SKIM module so it doesn't matter if the PCM you acquire is SKIM enabled or not.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #15 of 23 Old 04-03-2019, 08:12 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,077
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce06Unltd View Post
Thanks for a GREAT write up. I am glad I found this thread...my '06 Unlimited (NOT Rubicon) NSG370 just blew the reverse gear. Not sure what happened, but it makes a grinding sound going forward and won't go in reverse at all. I have 160K miles on it so I will replace the clutch while I am at it (might as well) so I will have some differences, but think it can be done easier. But still not sure how I can get the compatibility questions worked out....PCM, crankshaft sensor and other wiring is above my skill level, but if I can tell my garage how it is done, I think they can do it for me.

I anyone knows of a good write up on doing a NSG370 to AX15 swap, please let me know?

Bruce
The swap is possible and easy relatively. Just not as cheap as it could be. You need the conversion bellhousing from Advance Adapters that has the CPS hole over on the right side. It will swap onto the NV3550 or AX-15 that you acquire. After that, there is no wiring, PCM swap, or anything else electrical that needs messed with. AA gives you a new throw-out bearing, clutch fork ball stud in the kit and a list of which parts to mix and match to get the clutch disc, pressure plate and pilot bearing all working. It is a very basic swap and no harder than doing a clutch job.
NashvilleTJ likes this.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
Reply

Tags
auto , manual , swap , tj , transmission

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
My goal is to get 25+ mpg from my 99 XJ with 30 x 9.5 R15 ATs Charley3 XJ Cherokee Technical Forum 3853 02-12-2019 09:15 AM
TJ auto to manual transmission conversion Mitch72 TJ Wrangler Technical Forum 12 01-08-2019 12:44 PM
The 5.2/5.9 swap guide for YJs SunDevilJeeper YJ Wrangler Technical Forum 153 12-29-2018 10:50 PM
VW 1.9L tdi swap with a 42rle transmission BlackTieTJ Engines & Drivetrain 4 09-16-2018 08:48 PM
2007 JK manual transmission Jomason521 Engines & Drivetrain 1 04-23-2018 10:17 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome