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post #1 of 15 Old 10-13-2021, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
wranglerkrisbur
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Airbag light

Hello.

Well, I swamped my jeep and now the airbag light is on. I have tried about 4 different really expensive code readers and none of them seem to connect to the SRS system.

I do not think it is the clock spring as the horn still works and so does cruise control.

Could water have gotten in the air bag control module? It was under water for about 5 minutes until I got out...

Pictures attached for viewing pleasure.

Cheers

Kris

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20211013_205739.jpg   20210904_123959.jpg   20210904_124353.jpg   20211013_203027.jpg  
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-14-2021, 07:04 AM
Jonny Jeep
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I got to read the code from my ACU after I was able to borrow a Snap-on scanner. I had an internal fault in the ACU and was able to get a used replacement shipped from the US ebay site cheaper than I could get one over here. The connector is sealed so no water should get inside it. there are tabs on the connector of the ACU that can be easily damaged if the connector is forced off.

As you cant get the code read, if there are some ACU units on ebay it might be worth getting one just to try a swap. IIRC you need to shift an unlocking tab then push release clips on either side as you pull the connector off.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-14-2021, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
I got to read the code from my ACU after I was able to borrow a Snap-on scanner. I had an internal fault in the ACU and was able to get a used replacement shipped from the US ebay site cheaper than I could get one over here. The connector is sealed so no water should get inside it. there are tabs on the connector of the ACU that can be easily damaged if the connector is forced off.

As you cant get the code read, if there are some ACU units on ebay it might be worth getting one just to try a swap. IIRC you need to shift an unlocking tab then push release clips on either side as you pull the connector off.
Got one off ebay and swapped it. Light is still on, what should I try next?
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-15-2021, 03:30 AM
Jonny Jeep
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The ACU gets power from two fuses behind the glove box #5 and #9. Your cluster is working so switched power is getting to fuse #9. Do your reverse lamps work? They get power from fuse #7 which shares the same ignition feed as fuse #5. Check both of those fuses anyway.


I never thought about the ground location for the ACU earlier. From the interior pic I think the ACU ground would have been under water. The ground wire is on the passenger side below the dash and is screwed to the panel to the right of the passenger footwell. The location should be a few inches forward of the lower door hinge, and just below hinge height. . I'm not sure a bad ground could cause a light as I don't know if low voltage could cause a code. It might be worth removing and cleaning that ground just in case.


Obviously a code reader that can read the ACU would be the best for diagnosis as it would point you in the direction you need to look. It would be unfortunate if the original and replacement ACU both had an internal error. Do you have any auto repair places near you? They would normally have decent diagnostic scanners and might be able to read the ACU for you. The vehicle had to be manually selected on the Snap-on one I borrowed, and 01 was the earliest year I could select. It was able to read the ACU on my 97 anyway.
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-18-2021, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
The ACU gets power from two fuses behind the glove box #5 and #9. Your cluster is working so switched power is getting to fuse #9. Do your reverse lamps work? They get power from fuse #7 which shares the same ignition feed as fuse #5. Check both of those fuses anyway.


I never thought about the ground location for the ACU earlier. From the interior pic I think the ACU ground would have been under water. The ground wire is on the passenger side below the dash and is screwed to the panel to the right of the passenger footwell. The location should be a few inches forward of the lower door hinge, and just below hinge height. . I'm not sure a bad ground could cause a light as I don't know if low voltage could cause a code. It might be worth removing and cleaning that ground just in case.


Obviously a code reader that can read the ACU would be the best for diagnosis as it would point you in the direction you need to look. It would be unfortunate if the original and replacement ACU both had an internal error. Do you have any auto repair places near you? They would normally have decent diagnostic scanners and might be able to read the ACU for you. The vehicle had to be manually selected on the Snap-on one I borrowed, and 01 was the earliest year I could select. It was able to read the ACU on my 97 anyway.
All fuses are good. No my reverse lights work. I even checked the airbag fuses.

I did not check the ground, I will check that next.

If ground does not fix, should I just replace the clock spring? Not sure what else could be wrong?


Thank You
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-18-2021, 01:56 PM
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I swapped my clockspring when I was having an intermittent light with no change. It wasn't until I got hold of a decent reader that I knew what the issue was.


I would honestly try and find a place with a good reader to find out what is reported by the ACU before replacing the clockspring. At the very least, you should check the continuity of the clockspring on all the connections and see if any change when the clockspring is turned.
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-18-2021, 06:21 PM
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Look for the silver controller box on the floorboard ahead of shifter by firewall.
Take it loose and you'll probably see corrosion.
Guarantee that's your problem since it's underwater

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post #8 of 15 Old 10-19-2021, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
wranglerkrisbur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
I swapped my clockspring when I was having an intermittent light with no change. It wasn't until I got hold of a decent reader that I knew what the issue was.


I would honestly try and find a place with a good reader to find out what is reported by the ACU before replacing the clockspring. At the very least, you should check the continuity of the clockspring on all the connections and see if any change when the clockspring is turned.
Can I check continuity without disassembling everything? Shop will be last choice which is getting closer
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-19-2021, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
wranglerkrisbur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
Look for the silver controller box on the floorboard ahead of shifter by firewall.
Take it loose and you'll probably see corrosion.
Guarantee that's your problem since it's underwater
I replaced this first thinking the same. The threads were rusty. Does it ground through the bolt threads? Maybe I need to re tap them so they are clean?
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-19-2021, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wranglerkrisbur View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
Look for the silver controller box on the floorboard ahead of shifter by firewall.
Take it loose and you'll probably see corrosion.
Guarantee that's your problem since it's underwater
I replaced this first thinking the same. The threads were rusty. Does it ground through the bolt threads? Maybe I need to re tap them so they are clean?
It grounds through the mounting screws.
Make sure the area is clean and use neversize

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post #11 of 15 Old 10-20-2021, 02:26 PM
Jonny Jeep
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The FSM shows two ground locations for the ACU. One is the mounting screws, the other is the ground wire going to the panel forward of the door hinge as I described above.


If you remove the shrouds from around the steering wheel and remove the airbag from the steering wheel, which may be torx screws, I don't remember, that would give you access to both sides of the clockspring, If you can get probes on to the rear connector pins you would be able to check the clockspring. The steering wheel side may require a pin sticking into the connector.
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-21-2021, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep View Post
The FSM shows two ground locations for the ACU. One is the mounting screws, the other is the ground wire going to the panel forward of the door hinge as I described above.


If you remove the shrouds from around the steering wheel and remove the airbag from the steering wheel, which may be torx screws, I don't remember, that would give you access to both sides of the clockspring, If you can get probes on to the rear connector pins you would be able to check the clockspring. The steering wheel side may require a pin sticking into the connector.
I checked both grounds with a meter and get 12.8 to 12.6 volts. I ran an extra long wire from positive terminal to the meter and started poking. I poked all around the ACU and was getting voltage. Along with the small ground strap on right side by door.

Problem pointing toward clockspring? Sounds like il be checking it next.

If the battery is disconnected il just be checking for continuity then on the clock spring correct?

I appreciate all of the help
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post #13 of 15 Old 10-22-2021, 12:39 PM
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These diagrams are for the airbag control module and the yellow clockspring connector on the dash side of the clockspring.


If you were to unplug these and set the meter on the lowest resistance (Ohms/Ω) setting you could the measure the continuity of the dark green/light blue and black/light blue wires between the ACU and the clockspring connector.


To test the clockspring, again using the ohms setting, you need to remove and unplug the steering wheel airbag. With the airbag removed you need to measure the continuity between the two pins at the dash side of the clockspring, and the connector at the airbag side. If continuity is good the reading should be the same (within a fraction of an Ohm) as that when you just touch the two meter probes together.
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-23-2021, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Jonny Jeep;41378003]These diagrams are for the airbag control module and the yellow clockspring connector on the dash side of the clockspring.


If you were to unplug these and set the meter on the lowest resistance (Ohms/Ω) setting you could the measure the continuity of the dark green/light blue and black/light blue wires between the ACU and the clockspring connector.

I would need to take the airbag out to get to the clockspring connector correct? Or is it out in the open. I know where the connector for the ACU is pretty easy to get to. Thank you
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-23-2021, 09:58 AM
Jonny Jeep
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The shrouds need to be removed from the steering column to access the clockspring C1 connector. The shrouds are held in place by three screws which are in recessed holes on the lower cover. I'm not sure if the plastic ignition key guide is just a 97 thing, but if you have one, you need to remove the ignition barrel to get the lower shroud off. There is a hole inline with the barrel in the lower cover. To remove the barrel you need to turn the key to the on position, then push a screwdriver into the recess. That allows you to push in a button on the barrel which holds it in place. When the button is pushed in, the barrel will pull out. The top shroud can be difficult to remove and refit but is flexible enough to do. I usually remove the windscreen vent trip and cluster surround to give more wiggle room for the shroud.



To access the airbag side connector of the clockspring, yes, you would need to remove the airbag from the steering wheel. There are two screws holding it in place, accessed at the rear of the steering wheel. IIRC they are torx headed but I don't remember the size. Once you get to that connector you may need to stick a pin in the connector to be able to take a reading.
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