Added Sea Foam, But No Smoke? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 02-24-2020, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
The Goblin
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Added Sea Foam, But No Smoke?

Hey ya'll. I added Sea Foam to my intake today (the spray can type designed for this) but I got NO smoke out of my exhaust. Every video I have seen of people doing this shows them with lots of smoke, even if it's just from the Sea Foam itself burning off. Not sure what to think. Any concerns with this if it doesn't burn itself out of the engine?

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the engine wasn't hot enough? I drove it around for a while first to get it up to temp, as directed on the can, but it never really got up to normal temp. I wasn't too worried about it because it's cold outside. But, I remembered afterward that I had a code recently saying that the thermostat wasn't responding. So I'm guessing the thermostat is stuck open, or it was removed (I've only owned the Jeep for a few weeks and I don't know its history) so the engine was colder than normal.

Anyway, anything I should be worried about if it doesn't burn itself off like I've seen in the vids?

Thanks guys!


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post #2 of 17 Old 02-24-2020, 11:38 PM
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Did you follow these directions? First, let your engine warm while you rev it to around 2,000 rpm. Empty the contents of the spray into the engine. Turn off your engine and let the liquid rest for around 15 minutes. Restart the engine and drive short distances. This gives the liquid enough time to clean the engine.

p.s. Little or no smoke means little or no crud in the engine to burn off.

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-25-2020, 05:24 AM
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I agree with above - as you have been driving it without smoke or issue do not worry.

I gotta ask why did want to add seafoam?
any issues or codes you are working on?

As for the thermostat concern post code # for us.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-25-2020, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Yeah, I followed the instructions, 2000rpms, let it sit, etc. It was just really odd to me that it didn't seem to make any smoke at all. I just bought the Jeep a few weeks ago so I'm just trying to get it cleaned up.

It only has about 78k miles and it's an '02 and I think it sat quite a bit. It had a clicking noise in the engine and I thought it might be lifters or something so I added some regular Sea Foam to the oil to see if that would help. It definitely helped. It still has a noise off and on, but not a loud "click" like it used to. I put some Sea Foam in the gas and while I was at it I figured I would just do the intake as well, hence this treatment.

The thermostat code is P1281 "Thermostat inactive".

It has vacuum leaks as well (P0455 - large and P0442 - small), lol. It had o2 sensor codes as well but I changed the bad one and those have resolved. It's been a bit more of project than I intended when I bought it!

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post #5 of 17 Old 02-25-2020, 04:12 PM
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details
P1281-ENGINE IS COLD TOO LONG, basically staying below @175 often a Thermostat issue.

P0442-EVAP LEAK MONITOR MEDIUM (0.040) LEAK DETECTED. .
P0455-EVAP LEAK MONITOR LARGE LEAK DETECTED . .
Start at purge solenoid, sealing and hoses tight, If you need more ideas just ask.

Good luck with the new toy

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-25-2020, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
details
P1281-ENGINE IS COLD TOO LONG, basically staying below @175 often a Thermostat issue.

P0442-EVAP LEAK MONITOR MEDIUM (0.040) LEAK DETECTED. .
P0455-EVAP LEAK MONITOR LARGE LEAK DETECTED . .
Start at purge solenoid, sealing and hoses tight, If you need more ideas just ask.

Good luck with the new toy
Thanks Jtec. I really appreciate it. Think a smoke test is worth it? Or should I just go ahead and replace the purge solenoid and go from there? My local shop charges about $80 for a smoke test.

I also saw a video recommending to just go ahead and change a certain valve attached to the evap canister (I can't remember the name of the valve), think that's worth doing too? Or just do the solenoid first?

Thanks!

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post #7 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 08:23 AM
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I suggested you LOOK first get an 'eyeball' on the system first before spending...

check for hoses attached, visible tears, holes, be sure with eng running purge is NOT leaking vac when not commanded. .

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 09:47 AM
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Smoke test is worth it and will probably save you a lot of time. That leak can also be at the gas tank end.

As for sea foam, do yourself a favor and stop pouring that crap in your engine. It is a solvent. It is made to clean boat engine parts. Not to be ingested or added to engine oil. It's just tearing down the properties of the oil on your cylinder walls. I still can't understand how this has become a thing. Marketing is a powerful thing I guess.

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post #9 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fromme View Post
As for sea foam, do yourself a favor and stop pouring that crap in your engine. It is a solvent. It is made to clean boat engine parts. Not to be ingested or added to engine oil.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment
Made from petroleum ingredients, Sea Foam is safe and effective when used in any gasoline or diesel engine.
Safely liquefy petroleum residues that restrict flow and lubrication.
Clean oil control rings, vvt solenoids and actuators.
Dissolve and clean deposits throughout the crankcase including diesel soot residues.
Clean and quiet noisy lifters and timing chain tensioners and reduce diesel injector stiction
Oil should be changed within 100-300 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 05:07 PM
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Like I said, it’s a solvent.

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post #11 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
I suggested you LOOK first get an 'eyeball' on the system first before spending...

check for hoses attached, visible tears, holes, be sure with eng running purge is NOT leaking vac when not commanded. .
Thanks! This schematic really helped.

I think I may have found the culprit... lol. A whole bunch of old duct tape and a few hose clamps! It's at least a good place to start.
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post #12 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fromme View Post
Smoke test is worth it and will probably save you a lot of time. That leak can also be at the gas tank end.

As for sea foam, do yourself a favor and stop pouring that crap in your engine. It is a solvent. It is made to clean boat engine parts. Not to be ingested or added to engine oil. It's just tearing down the properties of the oil on your cylinder walls. I still can't understand how this has become a thing. Marketing is a powerful thing I guess.
I've definitely seen quite a debate on this issue. I finally decided to give it a shot after watching a ton of video reviews, especially one by a guy on youtube that had an old Ranger with a really bad ticking sound that cleared up pretty quick after a Sea Foam application. He does a ton of side-by-side comparisons of engine products. No sponsors, no bias, just head-to-head tests. It was pretty impressive. I think his channel is Project Farm, or something like that. Anyway, I decided to give it a shot. The clicking I was hearing has definitely improved, but there is still some sort of sound; knocking/clicking.

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post #13 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Goblin View Post
Thanks! This schematic really helped.

I think I may have found the culprit... lol. A whole bunch of old duct tape and a few hose clamps! It's at least a good place to start.
Visible crack beyond what's taped. You got it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-26-2020, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Sea Foam is safe and effective when used in any gasoline or diesel engine.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fromme View Post
Like I said, it’s a solvent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fromme View Post
It is made to clean boat engine parts. Not to be ingested or added to engine oil.
It's specifically made to be "ingested or added to engine oil."

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/Black Magic brakes
99' XJ /4.0L-AW4/ 5.5" lift / Rancho shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-02-2020, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Got the new evac hoses today! Oddly none of the local parts shops carried them at all and even the dealers had to order them in. So I ordered them online from a shop called Mopar parts, or something like that. Only took 2 days to get here which isn't bad at all. About $43.00 with tax and shipping. It seems like a part like this could fail quite easily with the rubber hoses so close to the heat of the engine so it's surprising to me that the parts shops don't even carry this at all. Oh-well. I installed them this evening and reset the codes. Everything else looks pretty good (most other components look relatively new and in good shape). Here's to hoping this resolves the evac codes!

Now onto the thermostat...
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Evac1.jpg   Evac2.jpg  

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