98 Sahara 4.0 swap to new 4.0 - advice? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-30-2016, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
Peezi
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98 Sahara 4.0 swap to new 4.0 - advice?

I am just starting to take out my old 4.0 engine (which reached 350k miles before it died!) and swapping with a new 4.0, but I can't find any videos or write ups on doing it? Can anyone point me in the right direction, or provide some advice based on your experiences? I'm in the Denver area if anyone knows of any shops to gets parts at, or knows where I could possibly get a rebuilt engine, since I have yet to buy anything.

Just starting out with emptying the fluids now, fun stuff! I plan to leave the transmission in as well during the swap out.

Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 17 Old 01-30-2016, 04:34 PM
mukluk
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Click on the link, scroll down just a bit until you reach the section labeled "Online Repair Manual", click on the drop down menus to choose your 1998 TJ then the section for "engine", start reading on page 55 of the provided factory service manual.

Jeep Information Center
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-30-2016, 06:25 PM
RenoF250
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It is fairly straight forward, just remove everything holding it in and put it back in reverse. I would recommend putting the bolt in labelled ziplock bags so you don't get too confused when putting it back together. I didn't and it was a pain. You might also consider going to a stroker for the new engine and get a bit more power.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-31-2016, 03:19 AM
SkylinesSuck
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+1 for checking our a stroker. The cost isn't that much more over a stock rebuilt 4.0.

'98 Sahara w/AX15 & 4.6L stroker, 2.5" OME lift, 32" BFG M/T's, 8.8 w/Detroit Trutracs & 4.10's F&R
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-31-2016, 06:29 AM
2jhanna
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OP, I have no input on your engine swap but how about some info on the 350k miles. How many miles did you put on, that's 20k for 18 yrs, wow.

How is the rest of the body and frame, driveline. Anything else rebuilt ? Any other major work to engine done.

Just curious, I know vehicles can go into the "mega mile range", but to want to keep your going even furture, it must be pretty special and worth the cost/effort?

Edit, just looked at your profile, so you are the original owner and had 190k in 2010? That's another 160k in the last 5 years! Where in the he!! do you travel?��
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-31-2016, 07:44 AM
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Where in the he!! do you travel?��
He made many trips here.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-31-2016, 08:39 AM
Robm225
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I would order a Scat stroker rotating assembly For your 4.0 . It cost $1354.97. You get new crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings. It's a great deal and much better than using your very used crank and rods when rebuilding your engine.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-31-2016, 06:33 PM
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OP, do you really have a d35 for a front axle? That's what's in your profile...
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-29-2016, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
Peezi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jhanna View Post
OP, I have no input on your engine swap but how about some info on the 350k miles. How many miles did you put on, that's 20k for 18 yrs, wow.

How is the rest of the body and frame, driveline. Anything else rebuilt ? Any other major work to engine done.

Just curious, I know vehicles can go into the "mega mile range", but to want to keep your going even furture, it must be pretty special and worth the cost/effort?

Edit, just looked at your profile, so you are the original owner and had 190k in 2010? That's another 160k in the last 5 years! Where in the he!! do you travel?��
Hi! Sorry for the delayed response, been a crazy month. Lets see, I drove 21 miles, each way to work, 5 days a week, for 10+ years. Plus, I often head up to the mountains on the weekends to ski, camp, hike, etc., sometimes multiple times in 1 weekend. Toss in a few cross country trips, and the occasional Moab journey and you can get a lot of miles on any vehicle. That doesn't even include all the driving I did around this city... ya, I guess you can say that I like to drive.

The vehicle itself is in pretty good condition for it's age, it's got some dents here and there (and I plan to fix those flaws as well over the next few months), but it drove with no problems until it just stopped. I redid the syncros in the transmission probably 100k miles ago, but that's it for major issues except for normal maintenance parts, I think it's on it's 4th clutch.. I've pretty much done all the maintenance on it. I recently put a slip yoke eliminator drive shaft on it when I blew out a U joint, that was probably 40k miles ago.

I just like to work on cars, so I figured why not put a new engine in this one, it will be fun. Plus, it drives so well in the snow, a good vehicle to own in Denver.

So as an update here, I took off the whole front end, as well as all of the components surrounding the engine, normal stuff. I have everything removed except separating the engine from the transmission, which I believe is 10 bolts. They've all been PBed so it should not be difficult. I was surprised to find that my radiator was almost empty and it had all gone to the oil pan. Probably a blown head gasket, or a cracked head, not sure since I haven't had time to inspect the engine yet. It's been clicking for some time, progressively getting worse, so even if it's just a gasket it had other issues as well. Then after the last tune up, which included an oil change, it made it a few miles before it stalled. I am thinking that I will put in a crate engine, and then rebuild the old engine as a stroker. I bought all the tools to move engines around and work on them, so that can be my next project. If I get some time I will post some pics.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-29-2016, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
OP, do you really have a d35 for a front axle? That's what's in your profile...
Hi, it's the original front axle so ya I'm pretty sure it's a D35, which was standard on the Sahara's. I haven't gotten crazy with my axle's, although depending how this re-manufactured engine does going up the mountain post project I might consider re-gearing the rear for more torque. There were a few areas I had to shift into 3rd to get above 55MPH. Yes, I said 3rd on my 5 speed...

Honestly though, I truly believe a new engine will resolve the torque issues. When I first got the vehicle I never needed to downshift anywhere on I70...
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post #11 of 17 Old 03-01-2016, 01:01 AM
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OP, do you really have a d35 for a front axle? That's what's in your profile...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peezi View Post
Hi, it's the original front axle so ya I'm pretty sure it's a D35, which was standard on the Sahara's. I haven't gotten crazy with my axle's, although depending how this re-manufactured engine does going up the mountain post project I might consider re-gearing the rear for more torque. There were a few areas I had to shift into 3rd to get above 55MPH. Yes, I said 3rd on my 5 speed...

Honestly though, I truly believe a new engine will resolve the torque issues. When I first got the vehicle I never needed to downshift anywhere on I70...
No TJ ever came from the OEM with a d35 front axle. The only front d35 axle was an independent suspension, which was never installed in a TJ...
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-01-2016, 07:36 AM
wadewen
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Here's a thread I did for these purposes. Have fun

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/t...-swap-3482690/
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-01-2016, 08:42 AM
tworley
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It would be a D30 up front

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post #14 of 17 Old 03-01-2016, 09:40 AM
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I would convert to the later model exhaust manifold.

I would consider a used engine. Around here you can buy a Cherokee with 150k for 5-700 dollars if it's got a blown tranny, rested frame ir otherwise spent. If it's a pre 2001 it will have an HP D30.
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-04-2018, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
Peezi
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Originally Posted by rondak46 View Post
I would convert to the later model exhaust manifold.

I would consider a used engine. Around here you can buy a Cherokee with 150k for 5-700 dollars if it's got a blown tranny, rested frame ir otherwise spent. If it's a pre 2001 it will have an HP D30.
Interesting idea about the later model EM. I somehow lost my access to this website and then when I tried to reset the password, nothing went to my email address. Just tried again, perhaps a year later, and I was able to reset my password.

Anyway, I kept the stock exhaust manifold, took it to a car wash and power washed the ***** out of that bad boy! It worked like a charm!

I updated my profile as well with the D30, sorry for the bad info, didn't realize it was incorrect until everybody on this thread told me

And as far as a engine goes, I got a sweet deal on a ATK stock engine with all the covers and a 3 year warranty. It was under $1,800.00 including drop shipped to my alley garage (at my house). More on that later I'm about to do my first oil change...
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