97 Tj chasing a gremlin for a year - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-31-2021, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
Gpjsniper
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97 Tj chasing a gremlin for a year

So I been On numerous sites and spent hours upon hours of research to still not be able to catch or find out why my jeep is doing this. Don't matter if it's hot or cold but you takeoff and it runs fine it's when you get off the gas and decelerate it's going to stall out some days it happens a lot other days it happens it's a little.

To crank it back up I have to go through a sequence that I do that I think in my mind helps (but probably doesn't). It has never left me yet but I will show up late to my own funeral if that's what I'm driving the day the good Lord takes me home.

Here's a list of everything that I've changed and this is the most recent jeep codes I pull off the dash

codes first are 12. 22. 42. 55.
I know 12 and 55 end of codes I know the others as well but I'm looking for something that could cause this and not really would be the first thing that comes up in your mind

I've change the pressure switch for the power steering I changed out the coolant temperature sensor changed out the battery I checked all the grounds I cut out almost every connector and soldered each wire together I changed out the intake manifold I changed out the exhaust manifold change out the oxygen sensors I have a new rotor have a new distributor cap new wires new spark plugs new pick up coil new coil new alternator new crank position sensor it would probably of been faster to list what was not changed out which now I'm on a mission I will change out every sensor on that thing to get it to work right again even if it had nothing to do with the engine it's going to get replaced but on my journey of doing this I would like to be able to get it drivable so I'm not stressed out from horns being blown at me to missed green Lights and the ugly eyes that are shot at me from across the street


Anyone has any suggestions no matter how crazy this coonass will do with a smile on his face!
I know what it means to love and hate something at the same time thanks jeep

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-01-2021, 11:28 AM
m1jeep
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I’m guessing the Idle Air Control Valve. It’s located on the side of the throttle body. Have you switched this one out yet?

2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ
2.5L HO
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-01-2021, 04:51 PM
jtec
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thoughts
YOu did NOT say so I am GUESSING this is a 4.0L and an automatic trans.

This is a OBDII so get a scan and post codes PXXXX series. Free scans at most auto part stores. FREE
When you are getting off gas to slow and stop shift to N -tell us did it smoth out?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-01-2021, 05:05 PM
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1jeep View Post
Iím guessing the Idle Air Control Valve. Itís located on the side of the throttle body. Have you switched this one out yet?
That's something that gets cleaned out with throttle body cleaner to make it function properly again, not replaced.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-01-2021, 05:09 PM
ravenworks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by m1jeep View Post
I’m guessing the Idle Air Control Valve. It’s located on the side of the throttle body. Have you switched this one out yet?
That's something that gets cleaned out with throttle body cleaner to make it function properly again, not replaced.
I mostly agree with you but you can buy a Genuine Chrysler one for $58.

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post #6 of 11 Old 08-01-2021, 05:30 PM
Jerry Bransford
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I mostly agree with you but you can buy a Genuine Chrysler one for $58.
True but it takes just minutes to restore it to good operating condition with a can of $7 throttle body cleaner. They all get dirty in normal use which causes them to operate erratically. Replacing them just because it's dirty is not what I'd recommend.

Below is my usual writeup on how to clean the IAC, cut and pasted from one of my earlier posts I saved.

That very well could be caused by nothing more than a dirty IAC (idle air controller). When at idle rpms, the engine gets ALL of its air through the IAC which is a solenoid actuated device attached to the side of your throttle body. When it gets dirty inside, and they definitely do, they can and do cause poor/erratic idle issues.

They are very easily cleanable with nothing more than an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, don't just replace the IAC. Don't remove the IAC either, you can more thoroughly clean the entire IAC system while it's still attached to the throttle body.

Remove the big plastic air intake tube from the top of the throttle body, you only need a Philips head screwdriver for that. Start the engine and leave the engine at idle rpms. Spray the cleaner into the throttle body, the IAC will then suck the cleaner in through itself. The IAC will flood with cleaner blocking air flow so the engine will die. That's ok, just restart the engine and do it again and again until you've gotten at least 1/3 of the can through the IAC.

Don't raise the engine rpms with the throttle lever in an effort to stop the engine from dying, that will cause the IAC to be bypassed by the cleaner, you have to do this cleaning operation strictly at idle rpms. Cleaning it this way not only cleans the IAC's solenoid actuated plunger that regulates air flow, it also cleans the orifice (hole) the plunger fits into. Removing the IAC from the throttle body to clean it would eave the orifice in the throttle body still gunked up with black combustion residue.

Aim the cleaner's spray at the "Idle Air Control Passage Inlet" shown below. That slot is where the IAC pulls its air through. Once you've got at least 1/3 of the can through that slot at idle rpms, you can use the rest of the can to clean the inside of the throttle body. Be sure to get the backside of the big round valve plate that you can open with the throttle lever.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-11-2021, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
Gpjsniper
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Sorry I been away at work just getting back and going to try to pull dash off tonight. It’s the mighty 2.5 standard. Since I been in my friend has a 98 so I took the pcm off his and tried that. Didn’t work still stalls out. Pulled codes off dash and 12 and 55 that’s it. I disconnected the battery and touched the two battery leads together to drain all the capacitors and anything holding memory in the jeep to start fresh after 15 minutes tried it and same thing starts when it wants as long as I’m accelerating it Will run all day as soon as I slow down a little there goes the Spark and it stalls out. I got so good at Driving it this way I’m able to do my sequence while I’m rolling down the road and pop the clutch in the appropriate gear and a jump starts sometimes and then I Cruise on down the road until I need to do it again
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-11-2021, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
Gpjsniper
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Originally Posted by m1jeep View Post
Iím guessing the Idle Air Control Valve. Itís located on the side of the throttle body. Have you switched this one out yet?
I sure have pretty much all intake sensors have been changed out. The brake booster is out snd has been out. I just man up when I need to stop. I donít think that would cause the spark to stop but if you have any info I will gladly listen
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-11-2021, 07:17 PM
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How do you know you're losing spark and not fuel?

What happens if you press the clutch instead of only letting off the gas?

97 TJ sport.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-11-2021, 08:58 PM
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10 days to let us know its a2.5 MANUAL trans, I guess its not your DD

any chance you got the FREE scan mentioned?
How about jerrys suggestion to clean IAC? Check out tutorials on youtube, google "clean jeep IAC"


And how about bobjp's questions above - losing spark?
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-12-2021, 05:32 AM
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Spit balling here... Have you looked at your catalytic converter to see if it is clogged?

2003 X, 5 speed, FT/RR bumpers by Eddie Reighard. JKS 1" body lift, JKS disco's, 2 1/2" Rough Country lift, 8k Warn, w/class 3 receiver FT & RR hitch. GA 8 rims riding 33's- GY Kevlar.
SOLD- 1985 CJ7 soft top , fiberglass body, 5" total lift258-6- Howell TBI, Full Roll cage.
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