8.8 Swap, the Cliffs-Notes - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
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post #91 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:16 AM
Deacon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
But again.. it was just a hypothetical concept I was concluding due to the fact I discovered several builds in the 40/buggy`ish style build that still had an 8.8.
Were they running stock suspension bracketry?? Thank you for clarifying, and I'm glad you're not headed down that path. But you can't roll on 40's even if you get the right front axle because your suspension has to change entirely, and that means you have to cut off all those fancy brackets and such and start over, which means no rolling till it's all done (including lots of other stuff like drives shafts).

Honestly it would be a whole lot easier at that point to take your time and build up the right axles outside the Jeep until they're done. The Jeep itself would need work at that point as well. And anyway, rear axles are a lot cheaper and easier than the front. You can get a 14bff and set it up for less than your 8.8.

I just don't want anyone reading this thread to get the impression that the hypothetical situation you're painting is a sensible or workable plan.

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post #92 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
Yeah, I currently have the Currie HD Steering linkage... but trying to understand the reasons to go High Steer, flip TRE, etc.

I only understand the WJ swap as a method to get away from the Y-Steer and larger brakes and increase diff clearance. But I have no issue in diff clearance with the Currie and no issues that I am aware of yet with factory Y style.
Flipping the driver's side of the tie rod is a good, simple mod with Currie steering.

There are other excellent brake options now that are much easier.

For most TJ owners, no reason to go away from inverted Y.
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post #93 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:33 AM
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From what I've seen of the mess involved trying to get proper track bar geometry when going to cross over steering with the WJ knuckles it's not for your average tinkerer.
I would think Savvy/Currie ultimate steering kit, maybe with the tie rod flip, with 17" Vanco brakes would be a much more feasible solution for the average person.
What is the other advantage to WJ knuckles? I think there's something, but I'm not remembering it...


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It's difficult to take you seriously. It's like you're an easily perturbed autistic teenager who's drunk typing the whole time.
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post #94 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
Were they running stock suspension bracketry?? Thank you for clarifying, and I'm glad you're not headed down that path. But you can't roll on 40's even if you get the right front axle because your suspension has to change entirely, and that means you have to cut off all those fancy brackets and such and start over, which means no rolling till it's all done (including lots of other stuff like drives shafts).

Honestly it would be a whole lot easier at that point to take your time and build up the right axles outside the Jeep until they're done. The Jeep itself would need work at that point as well. And anyway, rear axles are a lot cheaper and easier than the front. You can get a 14bff and set it up for less than your 8.8.

I just don't want anyone reading this thread to get the impression that the hypothetical situation you're painting is a sensible or workable plan.
No... Long arm, 4-link, custom etc..

And Rodger that, and you have a valid point and I apologize if I accidentally give that impression to someone..

I was basically trying to understand how for you could/would go using the 8.8 housing. Most folks understand or know to what level you can use the D30, D35 etc.. I have not leaned what level you stop with the 8.8 yet.. thus my comments about "It has the strength to support larger than 35".. excluding the brackets, just talking about using the differential and associated axle shafts (the platform if you will)... is the 8.8 strong enough to be used in a different manor than "Factory CA bracketry and running 35s" type of question.

Personally, I feel, if I ever look beyond the typical trail & mud 35" riding jeep I most definitely would first consider the ECGS Comp 9 as a starting point.
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post #95 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Flipping the driver's side of the tie rod is a good, simple mod with Currie steering.

There are other excellent brake options now that are much easier.

For most TJ owners, no reason to go away from inverted Y.
I haven't seen/heard of the flipping driver side TRE.. what is accomplished when only flipping the driver side ?
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post #96 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
I haven't seen/heard of the flipping driver side TRE.. what is accomplished when only flipping the driver side ?


It's done to raise that end of the tie rod up out of the rocks a good bit.

By default, the rest of the tie rod is also raised up in decreasing amounts until it meets the drag link.




EDIT: ok... better?


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post #97 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post

Personally, I feel, if I ever look beyond the typical trail & mud 35" riding jeep I most definitely would first consider the ECGS Comp 9 as a starting point.
The single biggest mistake folks make when looking at bigger tires is overlooking the front axle.

Unless you have the means to cobble and hack stuff together yourself, build your own steering from pump to TRE's, and rebuild all the suspension in the front, you're looking at a minimum of 12 grand to get the front to work and just barely.
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post #98 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
It's imply done to raise that end of the tie rod up out of the rocks a little.
By default, the rest of the tie rod is also raised up in decreasing amounts until it meets the drag link.
Define "a little". It raises the tie rod enough that the bottom of it is parallel and even with the top of the axle tube.

That's more than a little.

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post #99 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
I haven't seen/heard of the flipping driver side TRE.. what is accomplished when only flipping the driver side ?
Given the angle of the tie rod to the draglink, by flipping the driver side you effectively move the whole tie rod above the axle.

Requires modifying the knuckle arm to accept the tapered tie rod end from the top. Done either by using a reamer to create the right taper from the top or drilling out the hole and using a tapered insert. Also, requires relocation of the lower sway bar link brackets. Blaine makes a nice replacement bracket that gets welded to the C.
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post #100 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Given the angle of the tie rod to the draglink, by flipping the driver side you effectively move the whole tie rod above the axle.

Requires modifying the knuckle arm to accept the tapered tie rod end from the top. Done either by using a reamer to create the right taper from the top or drilling out the hole and using a tapered insert. Also, requires relocation of the lower sway bar link brackets. Blaine makes a nice replacement bracket that gets welded to the C.
So... not exactly "Simple", or my definition of simple anyway

I'm going to look into that as a why not do it, because I could, and it could help..
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post #101 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
So... not exactly "Simple", or my definition of simple anyway

I'm going to look into that as a why not do it, because I could, and it could help..
Not bolt on, but as things go its pretty easy. Very good bang for buck in my opinion.
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post #102 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 10:07 AM
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Just to confirm... I have the the Currie Linkage set from when it was Marketed as " Currie HD Steering Linkage" and not the current labeling "Currectlync® Heavy Duty Steering System" which they also have a second version now named "Modified".

I have the straight bar version and the only difference I visually see.. are in the clamps. Mine are powder coated the same as the bar. The new version has stainless steel bolt clamps.

So I should be good in trying to get the driver side TRE flipped, right?
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post #103 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
Right, throw some 37's on it. Put some spacers on it, even. I'm not sure how long that D30 up front going to like you, nor your brakes, nor your steering, nor probably even your gearing, which used to max out at 4.88 but apparently people have been making available in 5.13 for a bit. I mean, it'll probably be OK for weekend rides through country roads. But I'm not convinced it's a winning strategy.
This thread is about rear axles...and you have continuously trashed the 8.8 as an option. You do realize that the front D30 would need to be addressed whether or not the rear is an 8.8 right? Your point about the front axle is moot in this conversation.


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post #104 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
To clarify, the spacers you added to the WJ knuckles did not add any width to the stock track width. The spacers move the unitbearing back close to stock due to the use of u-joints in the TJ axle versus CV joints in the WJ axles which allow a shorter distance from the end of the axle tube to the back face of the unitbearing.
Oh man, why you gotta burst my bubble? Maybe having that 1/2" less overall track width in the front than I thought I had caused me to do this
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post #105 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
I have not leaned what level you stop with the 8.8 yet.. thus my comments about "It has the strength to support larger than 35".. excluding the brackets, just talking about using the differential and associated axle shafts (the platform if you will)... is the 8.8 strong enough to be used in a different manor than "Factory CA bracketry and running 35s" type of question.
It just really doesn't make any sense to explore those limits. It's really only if you want to be a wiseass rebel and have all the extra time and money it would take to make it work, or if you were making a small single-seater buggy for a special application with narrow axles (and didn't just narrow a 1-ton axle). But I mean even then like I said a 14bff would be massively stronger and still dramatically cheaper. Or if you wanted the fancy goodness you could always go with a Currie Rock Jock 70 for true awesomeness.

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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Not bolt on, but as things go its pretty easy. Very good bang for buck in my opinion.
Agreed. The tie rod flip is easy and highly effective. Just need a welder, basically. Surely everyone has a drill to open up the knuckle for the insert...
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