8.8 Swap, the Cliffs-Notes - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 145 Old 05-25-2016, 10:00 PM
grininmonkey
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Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
Oh lord. Stock width, stock wheelbase, trying to run 40's on an 8.8 (and what in the front?) is a recipe for... You know what? Go for it, I'll watch your build thread

EDIT: No, for real. Abandon all hope ye who seek to enter here. You're wildly better off selling that 8.8 to someone who wants it and going with real axles front and rear, custom suspension, and a massive stretch, especially rear. Like back half it and go.
I want my 8.8 for 35s with short arm suspension. That has been my plan for some time in which I finally had the opportunity to work towards.

I doubt I will ever get into the comp cut, stretch, long arm 40s etc... but I have been thinking up to this point that the 8.8 was only viable to have as that better than D35, 35 inch tire build... I am finding out, however, that is not exactly the case...

I do however have an interest in the 88 kit to increase/improve tire to inner fender clearance with 12.5 35s... the interesting thing is though.. if I do the 88 kit, and so happen to ever want to stage up to long arm/stretch and 37s etc.. having the 8.8 with the 88 kit appears to support that transition a little further along vs keeping my D35.. until a "Real" axle as you say can be acquired... Unless I am reading and watching things in a totally different reality... the 8.8 route gets you thru a lot more "Stages" if you will.. than keeping the D35? In fact, the factory recommended max tire for stock 8.8 is 37"... so why it would be crazy to think an 8.8 with 88 kit would not support 37 or perhaps 39/40... I am at a lost?

I can find within this forum a lot of 8.8 build with 37 and larger tires... but none with a D35 in the time I just spent looking.

This one is 37" and 8.8 rear...

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h.../index219.html


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post #77 of 145 Old 05-25-2016, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I have no idea of their shafts design. The ones I designed had a very large diameter just inside the bearing that gradually tapered to about midpoint and then stepped down and tapered again to the splines. The flange was thickened with a large radius to the seal surface.

At the time of it's demise at Superior, the only warranties for shafts were due to a manufacturing defect, not a design or strength defect.

Looking at this vid, it appears the Yukon shafts are like you said you designed... large diameter inside the bearing.

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post #78 of 145 Old 05-25-2016, 10:43 PM
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You can do what you want. Many have. I don't think going 37's on stock width and stock wheelbase is the right move. 37 is a tweener size anyway, offering little advantage over 35 and falling short of 40+. And 37's are super expensive. Because that 8.8 may not break from it, but what about that D30 up front? What are you going to do for it? You're in for a world of hurt if you swap it out, and regardless you're in for new and expensive everything, and definitely not running stock steering box without hydro assist and brakes and everything else to consider.

You want to go 37's? Ok, go for it. You won't have been the first. But honestly, unless you have a very specific idea of why, you won't be able to tell how, and you're going to be running like hell in very deep, very soft sand, for a very long way.

It sounds like you already committed yourself to the 8.8, it's already done and running. So I would advise you thusly: if you ever decide to go to anything greater than 35, have a plan. That plan should not include an 8.8, not because it will snap into kindling the first time you back out of your driveway, but for all the other reasons. Sell it to some TJ dude with more cash than patience, and use that money to build real axles. It's only going to be a drop in the bucket, because everything changes. Everything.
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post #79 of 145 Old 05-25-2016, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
You can do what you want. Many have. I don't think going 37's on stock width and stock wheelbase is the right move. 37 is a tweener size anyway, offering little advantage over 35 and falling short of 40+. And 37's are super expensive. Because that 8.8 may not break from it, but what about that D30 up front? What are you going to do for it? You're in for a world of hurt if you swap it out, and regardless you're in for new and expensive everything, and definitely not running stock steering box without hydro assist and brakes and everything else to consider.

You want to go 37's? Ok, go for it. You won't have been the first. But honestly, unless you have a very specific idea of why, you won't be able to tell how, and you're going to be running like hell in very deep, very soft sand, for a very long way.

It sounds like you already committed yourself to the 8.8, it's already done and running. So I would advise you thusly: if you ever decide to go to anything greater than 35, have a plan. That plan should not include an 8.8, not because it will snap into kindling the first time you back out of your driveway, but for all the other reasons. Sell it to some TJ dude with more cash than patience, and use that money to build real axles. It's only going to be a drop in the bucket, because everything changes. Everything.
The biggest advantage the 8.8 has is that it can endure the torture of 37's a lot longer than any stock TJ axle can provided you build it to do so. If you do the Super kit, it can handle some wheel spacers to get the width you need and the top of it isn't atrocious for clearance provided you get a low profile truss on it.

It will max out at 37's if you play hard though but it will do it a very long time for moderate money and the larger tire takes away some of the rock magnet sting.

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post #80 of 145 Old 05-25-2016, 11:11 PM
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Right, throw some 37's on it. Put some spacers on it, even. I'm not sure how long that D30 up front going to like you, nor your brakes, nor your steering, nor probably even your gearing, which used to max out at 4.88 but apparently people have been making available in 5.13 for a bit. I mean, it'll probably be OK for weekend rides through country roads. But I'm not convinced it's a winning strategy.
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post #81 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
They acquired one of the Superior kits and copied it so it should add .900 per side. IIRC, the final width is slightly wider than stock.
Correct. Aesthetically it looks the same if you don't know it has been done. When my 8.8 was done Superior had closed up shop just prior to the gathering and I couldn't find the Super 88 and went with the Yukon knockoff. I haven't had any issues with it (so they must have copied it relatively well) yet.
My end goal with my jeep is 35's. Why? Because if I go bigger it will be 40+ and a buggy.

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post #82 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
My end goal with my jeep is 35's. Why? Because if I go bigger it will be 40+ and a buggy.
Exactly...(same here)

I guess I just failed to convey what came across my mind with the 8.8 and larger tires.

Deacon...

YES.. I absolutely understand very, very clearly that 35 is the maximum for my front axle... A point or observation that I was trying to convey was... Hypothetically... with the 8.8 and 88 kit sitting there with 35s.. and the 40/buggy`ish bug sorta bit ya... you could work on front axle replacement (First) and still drive the Jeep to a degree with the 8.8 giving you some time to work on a rear replacment.. vs.. Ok... before I can roll with 40s in any shape or form... I have to replace two axles at once.

But again.. it was just a hypothetical concept I was concluding due to the fact I discovered several builds in the 40/buggy`ish style build that still had an 8.8.
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post #83 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 07:44 AM
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Yukon copied and released the 8.8 c-clip eliminator, does anyone offer a c-clip eliminator kit for the D35 since Superior's demise?
I would think a D35 with 30 spline c-clip eliminator would not be a bad option for 35s. Then again, I said that when it was available and got called a moron more times than once.
I've never owned a TJ with a D35 rear, so I never had the option of trying that.
I wish Superior was still around. The c-clip eliminator with 30 spline shaft and that bolt on Superior truss on a D35 made a nice high clearance axle for 35s.


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It's difficult to take you seriously. It's like you're an easily perturbed autistic teenager who's drunk typing the whole time.
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post #84 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 07:54 AM
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I did a junkyard 8.8 with artec truss, new brakes, and rebuilt the limited slip with the Ford carbon fiber disk set. It worked pretty well for what it was and the trails I was doing on 33s.

I recently swapped out the limited slip to a full time locker, and used 1.25" adapters on the rear to convert to 5x5 bolt pattern to match the WJ unit bearings that I installed on the front as part of the WJ knuckle swap.

Adding the 1/4" spacer for the wj knuckle swap, the 8.8 and hp 30 are now extremely close in width. I think it worked out that the rear is slightly wider now.

I went to 35s and started doing harder trails, and the 8.8 is showing it's weakness now in that it drags like crazy. The hp30 and my tummy tuck will clear stuff, just for the 8.8 to catch hard and force me to pick a different line for absolutely no other reason.

If I was to do it over, I would've went with something else. I really wanted a 9", but couldn't afford a hi-9, and couldn't run a low pinion 9 with my wheelbase, suspension, and tummy tuck.

I think I should've looked hard at an aftermarket Toyota housing and have went that route. I wheel with guys who run Toyota 8" axles on 37's/38's and never have any issues.
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post #85 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
Yukon copied and released the 8.8 c-clip eliminator, does anyone offer a c-clip eliminator kit for the D35 since Superior's demise?
I would think a D35 with 30 spline c-clip eliminator would not be a bad option for 35s. Then again, I said that when it was available and got called a moron more times than once.
I've never owned a TJ with a D35 rear, so I never had the option of trying that.
I wish Superior was still around. The c-clip eliminator with 30 spline shaft and that bolt on Superior truss on a D35 made a nice high clearance axle for 35s.
The guy who started the company Revolution was from Superior, but their primary focus is Ring and Pinions. I ended up getting my 5.13s from Revolution due to them being one of the view who had that ratio for a D30.
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post #86 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post
couldn't run a low pinion 9 with my wheelbase, suspension, and tummy tuck
You probably could have, but it is on the edge. OEM wheelbase, LP 9 rear, 4" Currie springs and Savvy UA here.
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post #87 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post
I did a junkyard 8.8 with artec truss, new brakes, and rebuilt the limited slip with the Ford carbon fiber disk set. It worked pretty well for what it was and the trails I was doing on 33s.

I recently swapped out the limited slip to a full time locker, and used 1.25" adapters on the rear to convert to 5x5 bolt pattern to match the WJ unit bearings that I installed on the front as part of the WJ knuckle swap.

Adding the 1/4" spacer for the wj knuckle swap, the 8.8 and hp 30 are now extremely close in width. I think it worked out that the rear is slightly wider now.

I went to 35s and started doing harder trails, and the 8.8 is showing it's weakness now in that it drags like crazy. The hp30 and my tummy tuck will clear stuff, just for the 8.8 to catch hard and force me to pick a different line for absolutely no other reason.

If I was to do it over, I would've went with something else. I really wanted a 9", but couldn't afford a hi-9, and couldn't run a low pinion 9 with my wheelbase, suspension, and tummy tuck.

I think I should've looked hard at an aftermarket Toyota housing and have went that route. I wheel with guys who run Toyota 8" axles on 37's/38's and never have any issues.
Now that I have the 8.8 in, my next step was to work on the front and my thought was to swap out my parts into an HP30, but I am curious about the WJ knuckle swap...
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post #88 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by grininmonkey View Post
Now that I have the 8.8 in, my next step was to work on the front and my thought was to swap out my parts into an HP30, but I am curious about the WJ knuckle swap...
IMO WJ knuckle swap was an option worth considering a few years back when there weren't as many upgrade options for TJ axle. At this point, I think you can get what the WJ knuckle swap gives you or better in much easier ways.
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post #89 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post

Adding the 1/4" spacer for the wj knuckle swap, the 8.8 and hp 30 are now extremely close in width. I think it worked out that the rear is slightly wider now.

To clarify, the spacers you added to the WJ knuckles did not add any width to the stock track width. The spacers move the unitbearing back close to stock due to the use of u-joints in the TJ axle versus CV joints in the WJ axles which allow a shorter distance from the end of the axle tube to the back face of the unitbearing.

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post #90 of 145 Old 05-26-2016, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
IMO WJ knuckle swap was an option worth considering a few years back when there weren't as many upgrade options for TJ axle. At this point, I think you can get what the WJ knuckle swap gives you or better much easier ways.
Yeah, I currently have the Currie HD Steering linkage... but trying to understand the reasons to go High Steer, flip TRE, etc.

I only understand the WJ swap as a method to get away from the Y-Steer and larger brakes and increase diff clearance. But I have no issue in diff clearance with the Currie and no issues that I am aware of yet with factory Y style.
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