4.6L Stroker Build - '98 with AX15 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
dragginwagon406
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4.6L Stroker Build - '98 with AX15

As discussed in another thread, my 4.0L gave up with about 185,000 miles. The failure was, for the most part, unexpected but luckily, I have been saving for other mods which did not require pulling the valve cover, let alone the oil pan.

It was with much comptemplation that I ended up staying with the 4.0L platform. In the end, I blame Gerald and Blaine - I'm getting the Under Armor once I recover financially from the engine rebuild and a V8 would mess that up.

Anyhow, this build has been seat of the pants as I was not really properly studied up on the subject before the failure and given that this is my daily driver, I've had to be a quick study.



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post #2 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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My build is based on Dino's modified "poor man's" stroker:

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keith Black UEM-IC944-030 pistons
9.5:1 CR
Stock 4.0 HO camshaft
HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Fel Pro Permatorque 0.051" head gasket
Block decked to leave pistons .008" in the hole
0.053" quench height
Ford 24 lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR and simple MAP adjuster
248hp @ 4900rpm, 306lbft @ 3500rpm (with old intake manifold and early HO cam)

Originally, I was going to use the 4.2L rods but in my opinion, they would have required resizing - more on that later.

And some calculations from Jeepstrokers
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post #3 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Step 1: The Removal

Only four notes really:
  1. The top transmission bolts are special inverted torx type bolts - if you have a body lift and four feet of extension, it's really a non-issue
  2. Fuel line disconnect last and requires tool or ingenuity - I cut a 1" piece of 1/2" hard plastic vacuum line, split it down the middle and slid it into the connector to release the fingers
  3. We had trouble getting the engine to separate from the clutch - we ended up having to step on the clutch while wiggling the engine - the input shaft of the transmission was rusted to the clutch.
  4. The best way we found to pick the engine was using the head bolts (with studs) under the valve cover - one, second from near the rear and the other second from the front. This combined with a engine leveler.
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post #4 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis

First, the reason the engine and transmission were so difficult to separate becomes clear.
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post #5 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

The spark plugs give the first clue to what is happening followed closely by the head gasket. First an overview of the head gasket and then between each cylinder; one through six.
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IMG_2257.JPG   IMG_2258.jpg   IMG_2260.jpg   IMG_2261.jpg   IMG_2262.jpg  



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post #6 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:36 PM
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Ohhhhh, I'm excited about this write up. Crawled!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
i think we should chase him around with yjs, its like being chased by zombies, slow, crippled but for some reason still scary as heck lol
Red Jeep Club #614
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post #7 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

Cylinders 4-5, 5-6

Obviously, the head gasket was blown between 4-5 and likely blown between 3-4. My concern, when putting together a stroker, is that the block is still good. From the top side, I didn't see anything terrible.
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post #8 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

When I get to the oil pan, I'm greeted with a special treat...

After I flip the engine over, it's obvious where it came from - Piston #4.
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post #9 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

So without a doubt, I've found what was making all that racket. What's more is that three other pistons were cracked or starting to crack as well.
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post #10 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

Surprisingly, the bores looked good considering the pistons but there is some strange visible wear in cylinder #1 especially. You can't feel it, but there is some type of discoloration.
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post #11 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:09 PM
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Liking the pictures.. I recognized the name from Jeep Strokers

Girls like STROKIN too!
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f153/1971-jeepster-commando-1380633/
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post #12 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I have more...

Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

The timing chain was a little wore but nothing serious. It's nice how the main caps on these engines are pre-marked. The only thing else to note is that the thrust bearing is on#3 main bearing instead of the rear like small block chevy. All side clearance and thrust was OK on teardown.
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post #13 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Step 2: The Tear Down and Diagnosis - Continued

And all the rod and main bearings were good on the 4.0L.
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post #14 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3: Sourcing the Stroker Parts

I got lucky as a guy in my Jeep club was yanking a carbed 4.2L out of an '87 YJ in favor of an injected '94 4.0L. $100 later and we were headed away with a complete running engine.

The teardown of this engine is very similar to the 4.0L.

Notable items: the engine had never been torn down so it was a virgin 4 counterweight crank (3235477 - 64mm nose), 4.2L engines did not have the girdle across the main caps, the timing chain was so stretched that the tensioner block was completely gone and the cover was wore, the 4.0L rods seem to have a preferrable oiling slot in the rod bearings (not that the 4.2L was defecient - stock bearings on a 24 year old engine is pretty good).

Notice the AM and the AMC logo on the bearings.
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post #15 of 87 Old 06-09-2011, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Step 3: Sourcing the Stroker Parts - Continued

Now for the differences in the cranks.
  1. Counterweights - stock 4.0L crank has 8 counterweights vs. 4 counterweights for this 4.2L crank
  2. Nose length - 54 mm vs. 64 mm
  3. Weight - 58 lbs vs. 47.5 lbs
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IMG_2343.jpg   IMG_2346.jpg   IMG_2345.jpg   IMG_2353.jpg   IMG_2352.jpg  



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