2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 309 - JeepForum.com
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post #4621 of 5572 Old 08-09-2013, 11:50 PM
Rubi4MyMrs
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Originally Posted by FleshEater View Post
Because I keep forgetting to buy the damn grease and grease gun...I want maintenance free. I'd install the bearing kit from the user on here, but don't feel comfortable doing it.
OK, if it had failed I think it would be the first one reported here. I bet if you remove the shaft it will be good after 10k with only the original grease from the mod, but I understand your thinking.

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post #4622 of 5572 Old 08-10-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubi4MyMrs View Post
OK, if it had failed I think it would be the first one reported here. I bet if you remove the shaft it will be good after 10k with only the original grease from the mod, but I understand your thinking.
Yeah, still good. I'm thinking it'd probably be fine for a long time, but with another baby on the way, numerous home renovations, a lifter going bad, writing a novel, etc. etc. etc. Easy, plug and play, maintenance free (as it can get) is what I like.

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Gone but not forgotten; 2005 LJ *SOLD* 1987 XJ *SOLD* 2002 WJ *SOLD* 1995 ZJ *SOLD*
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post #4623 of 5572 Old 08-11-2013, 10:32 AM
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I just replaced my factory OPDA with a Dorman 689201. My factory OPDA(58K) had significant wear, so its good its been changed... Only issue has been after about 20 miles of driving on the Dorman my Check Engine Light came on. I scanned the ECU and I saw "P0344" Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Intermittent. I believe other people in this thread have had the same issue, and just used the original "Camshaft Position Sensor" and not the one that comes with the Dorman. Pretty pathetic that we buy these OPDA to fix a specific issue, and they don't even work correctly out of the box.

Upon closer inspection, on the face of the sensor you can see it has come in contact with the reluctor wheel. The side of the plastic housing is also cracked. I fear if I use my original sensor, I will destroy it since its about a 1/8" longer... The factory ODPA cam sensor has no signs of wear on the face of the sensor...???

Last edited by 05TJRKYMTN; 08-11-2013 at 10:55 AM.
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post #4624 of 5572 Old 08-11-2013, 11:56 AM
psouza1943
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The Doorman sensors all seem to show abrasion on the front surface. It is probably a result of a poorly implemented test procedure either at the sensor manufacturing facility or the OPDA assembly facility.

The fact is, the sensors should not be trusted and should be discarded. That should be obvious by now.

The observation that the OEM sensor is longer does not match what I have seen. I suggest that you test fit the OEM in the OPDA housing and verify visually that there is, or is not, interference.

Phil
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post #4625 of 5572 Old 08-11-2013, 12:20 PM
05TJRKYMTN
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psouza1943,

I am currently using the OEM supplied Camshaft position sensor in the Dorman OPDA. I used a feeler gauge, and the old and new sensors are .024" from the reluctor wheel on the Dorman(I didn't check on the OEM OPDA). It feels like there is alot of axial slop in the Dorman OPDA(I didn't pay attention when I was removing the OEM OPDA to compare). I already talked to RockAuto, and they said out of the 100+ orders they had, no complaints, besides one that was returned because the person didn't want it anymore.

I drove it some with the old Camshaft position sensor in the Dorman OPDA(no codes yet, normal performance), I'd like to get some more miles onto it to determine that the Dorman OPDA is the issue...

I also thought the general consensus is the Dorman OPDA is superior, besides the Camshaft sensor issues people have been having?
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post #4626 of 5572 Old 08-11-2013, 12:53 PM
psouza1943
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This OPDA issue has been a cluster fork on so many levels.....

The Dorman unit I currently use has the amount of clearance one would expect for the type of bearing used. No perceptible run out. We should all continue to check this for wear as miles accumulate, since this is "unknown territory".

The clearance between the reluctor and sensor is not critical, as long as it remains constant. I have verified this in the characterization tests I ran between the OEM and Doorman supplied sensors. This sensor is NOT as simple as it looks!

The apparent sensor problem with Doorman has less to do with quality of the unit and more to do with the way Chrysler guards the technical information on the requirements of its proprietary electronics systems, and how aftermarket engineers are forced to "guess" what the requirements are.

Axial slop should not be a problem.... unless the reluctor wheel is pushed/pulled beyond the range of the sensor, or out the top of the housing.. Not a specified parameter.



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post #4627 of 5572 Old 08-14-2013, 11:42 AM
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SG Mod updates?

I'm about to install the SG mod on a new OPDA before a cross country drive. Looking for feedback from others using this modification. Any issues? Thanks.

81' CJ8 Scrambler 46k original miles - showroom stock
94' YJ Wrangler - 300k miles before retiring 12/31/12
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post #4628 of 5572 Old 08-14-2013, 12:26 PM
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So, I've had the crankshaft/camshaft synchronizer code after having my motor rebuilt twice, about 7,000 miles ago (Have 48,016 as of now), and it was 2 weeks apart (Warranty work done by a dealership) Catastrophic lifter failure, warn cam lobe, push rod, don't remember what else.

Dealership keeps claiming it's my fan clutch, my issue is when mine is warm, the motor will not rev over 3k - 3200 rpm and it's like it's hitting the rev limiter. The fan clutch is allegedly "locked up" and causing the power loss - per the dealer.

The kicker, my jeep has always reached operating temp and stayed there +/- a couple degrees as obviously it fluctuates. They claim they took the fan assembly off and everything worked fine, but when it came to asking them about the engine temp. and how they would keep it warm and around operating temp. their response was "Uh... well the fan was bogging the motor down."

Called Chrysler, they are useless at this point.

Next step will be to head down there and watch them pull the OPDA and inspect with the tech, or leave with my jeep.

Anybody else have anything like this?

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post #4629 of 5572 Old 08-14-2013, 12:48 PM
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If the code is P0016 then the OPDA is not synced correctly. The dealer can use their DRBIII to dial it in. If it is close enough to start but not within "spec", when the temp hits about 160º it will throw the CEL & the engine will go into “limp home” mode & limit the revs to 3200.
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post #4630 of 5572 Old 08-14-2013, 01:03 PM
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Yes, I'm 99% positive it was p0016.

They claim they "reset the sensor" (their words), and with the fan off it was fine. As soon as they "put the fan back on" it would "bog" down. The way they are describing it, it is more of a power loss. Rather then none progression of RPMs.

I do occasionally get noise from the OPDA, and have had the laughing monkey in our winter here in Michigan. So I do know there is an issue there, I have yet to take it out and inspect it myself because they are finding every reason to not dive deeper into it, and I figured that would just be another stupid stealership reason to not cover something.

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post #4631 of 5572 Old 08-14-2013, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wytex View Post
I'm about to install the SG mod on a new OPDA before a cross country drive. Looking for feedback from others using this modification. Any issues? Thanks.
Just make sure it is installed correctly. I sent you my email in a PM, I can send some install tips that are easy and fruitful.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4632 of 5572 Old 08-16-2013, 09:55 AM
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So about a month ago...on the day I was closing on a new house, moving, etc...basically just a really bad day to have problems...I went out to go to work and my LJ was suffering from a full case of laughing monkey. I shut her down immediately and took my motorcycle to work.

Thankfully, I had a spare OEM unit in the garage I was going to put the SG mod in, but with everything going on I had to get my LJ working. In the dead of night with a head lamp on I changed out my OPDA in the driveway. The old ODPA showed no additional signs of wear from when I'd pulled it to inspect it months earlier.

Thanks to everyone for the information in this thread which helped me quickly repair my LJ so I could do more important things. Also, you folks that don't believe the OPDA is a real problem please get your heads out of the sand. Sure, your OPDA works perfectly...until all of a sudden it doesn't.
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post #4633 of 5572 Old 08-16-2013, 10:03 AM
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Does anyone know the Mopar or aftermarket part number? I have a 2005 Rubicon and need to change mine. Thank you.

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post #4634 of 5572 Old 08-16-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeezer View Post
Does anyone know the Mopar or aftermarket part number? I have a 2005 Rubicon and need to change mine. Thank you.
53010624ac is the stock part number. For a couple bucks more you can get a Dorman which IMHO is a better unit. DORMAN Part # 689201 You can get it a places like Rockauto.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #4635 of 5572 Old 08-16-2013, 07:30 PM
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I lost oil pressure on an unrelated issue, but checked my OPDA and it was worn, so was my camshaft gear. After reading most of this thread i replaced my camshaft and OPDA. Perfect time for a stroker! Anyways, i never had probs but this thread led me to replace due to wear. Now with fresh cam,crank, pistons and bearings and a new dorman, i should be trouble free for another 200k miles!
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