2004 hub & bearing assembly question - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
fundabug
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2004 hub & bearing assembly question

I have a 2004 TJ & I have some grinding noises and wobbling coming from one of my front wheels. Sounds like the bearings are grinding and I have a lot of grease around the area, but can't tell yet where it's coming from. My Chilton's manual says that the bearing assembly is not serviceable on the 2004 and that the hub, bearing, & axle assembly on that side needs to be completely replaced. I've found the entire axle and hub/bearing assembly at a reasonable price. I just wanted to know if anyone here knows if this is correct information before I replace half of my front end?




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post #2 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:00 AM
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That is correct, must be replaced as a unit. IIRC rock auto had the best price on oem timken when I replaced mine.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:17 AM
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Good write ups on here as well-- just put "unit bearing" into search

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:21 AM
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The hub/bearings are all one part and are sometimes called a unit bearing.

I'm not sure what you mean by the axle assembly but if a front wheel bearing is bad, all that needs to be replaced is the unit bearing. The axle shafts are reused.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fundabug View Post
My Chilton's manual says that the bearing assembly is not serviceable on the 2004 and that the hub, bearing, & axle assembly on that side needs to be completely replaced. I've found the entire axle and hub/bearing assembly at a reasonable price. I just wanted to know if anyone here knows if this is correct information before I replace half of my front end?
just want to make sure... you do not need to replace the axle. the axle however needs to be removed from the unit bearing.

as stated before, stick with Timken from rockauto.com. they are the OEM brand and are very well made. A set should be roughtly $150 shipped to your door.



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post #6 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:37 AM
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I'm a "while you're at it" kind of guy, so I would get a Spicer 5-760x u-joint or two and keep them handy while undertaking this operation. When you get the bearing off the end of the axle stub, you may or may not find your u-joint is notchy. Unless the u-joint is butter smooth and showing no signs of play, it's probably wise to replace it.

Stu's write-ups linked below probably have more detailed info than the manual.

Stuck unit bearing removal
Axle Shaft u-joint Replacement

Edit: I also screw in a Zerk fitting and grease my lower ball joints any time I have the axle shafts out. With everything assembled the lower BJ has a plug rather than a Zerk.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
fundabug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase559 View Post
The hub/bearings are all one part and are sometimes called a unit bearing.

I'm not sure what you mean by the axle assembly but if a front wheel bearing is bad, all that needs to be replaced is the unit bearing. The axle shafts are reused.
Sorry, didn't know what to call the entire thing. I don't have the manual in front of me (at work), but it made it look like the axle was part of the whole unit. Thanks for the help. Probably should have looked into it a little further before making this post, but I am at work & had some free time, thought I'd ask here.



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post #8 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fundabug View Post
Sorry, didn't know what to call the entire thing. I don't have the manual in front of me (at work), but it made it look like the axle was part of the whole unit. Thanks for the help. Probably should have looked into it a little further before making this post, but I am at work & had some free time, thought I'd ask here.
Get yourself a 36mm 3/4" drive socket and a 3/4" drive breaker bar.
You're gonna need it.


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post #9 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
Get yourself a 36mm 3/4" drive socket and a 3/4" drive breaker bar.
You're gonna need it.
he can probably get away with a good quality 1/2" breaker bar and PB blaster a few times before removal. not much use for 3/4" drives

the parts store might even rent the proper tools.

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
he can probably get away with a good quality 1/2" breaker bar and PB blaster a few times before removal. not much use for 3/4" drives

the parts store might even rent the proper tools.
It's possible.
I've broken a 1/2" drive breaker bar on that nut though.

I'm not going to debate which brand tools to buy, but my 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 1/2" reducer on it sees a lot of action... I liked it so much I started using my 1/2" driver with a 3/8" reducer for most of my sockets.


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post #11 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 11:00 AM
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For the occasional user, it's hard to beat the utility, storage and pricepoint of an electric impact. Tightens/loosens a 175 lb/ft axle nut easy peasy, and no big compressor to buy.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-08-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post

he can probably get away with a good quality 1/2" breaker bar and PB blaster a few times before removal. not much use for 3/4" drives

the parts store might even rent the proper tools.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post

It's possible.
I've broken a 1/2" drive breaker bar on that nut though.

I'm not going to debate which brand tools to buy, but my 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 1/2" reducer on it sees a lot of action... I liked it so much I started using my 1/2" driver with a 3/8" reducer for most of my sockets.
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Originally Posted by hustler905 View Post
For the occasional user, it's hard to beat the utility, storage and pricepoint of an electric impact. Tightens/loosens a 175 lb/ft axle nut easy peasy, and no big compressor to buy.
While replacing the unit bearings on my son's. TJ I tried my hd impact (easily removes pinion nuts) and wouldn't budge the pass axle nut. Then busted my 1/2 craftsman breaker bar using a cheater. Finally bought a 3/4 bb and socket and broke the nut loose. This was in addition to using PB blaster.
I always replace the ujoints while it's apart, unless I know their age.

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