2002 2.5L fuel line repair - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-16-2019, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
fallfork
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2002 2.5L fuel line repair

Thanks in advance for any help.


I have a 2002 2.5L TJ with a 5-speed. I had to disassemble the intake and exhaust manifolds to address an exhaust leak. Upon re-assembly, I tried to plug the fuel supply line into the fuel rail with the quick-connect fitting. It won't connect! If I look in the fuel line, the rubber o-ring and plastic ring (?) are clearly mangled. I can pick these two items out of the fuel line, but how do I source a new o-ring, and perhaps more importantly, whatever plastic thingy [technical term] that goes inside the fuel line? I tried the easy out of ordering a replacement fuel line bundle, but this part [52100278AG or AD, AE, AF] is discontinued. Thanks!!

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-16-2019, 08:10 PM
Jo3Gee
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You can try dorman 800-080 or replace the whole line with Russell 651111. I believe this will fit your model, but double check.
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-16-2019, 09:19 PM
wtroger
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I have been able to buy those o-rings from my local parts store as individual items. They have a multi compartment box with about every fuel o-ring known.
.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-17-2019, 06:52 AM
wytetrash
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Have you looked into Crown Automotive for one of those replacement parts?

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-17-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
fallfork
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First of all, thanks for the great ideas. At least I have some options to pursue!

I'm going to start by trying to simply replace the o-ring (and now I know I'll have to buy a kit.) The factory female quick-disconnect is metal with four metal "locking tabs" internal to the fitting. The locking tabs and the metal fitting look to be in serviceable condition. Therefore, is the o-ring the only thing that needs to be replaced? Or is there another part within the fitting? The reason I ask is that it looks like two different colored (and mangled) pieces of rubber (or plastic) came out of the fitting. The mechanic who did the manifold job previously was a total HACK - so it's possible he put a new o-ring in the fitting but didn't properly extract the old one (which would explain the two different colors.) It's also possible that in addition to the o-ring, there is some other broken part, in which case I will proceed to the Dorman 800-080 option.

Thanks again for the help!
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-17-2019, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
fallfork
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
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First of all, thanks for the great ideas. At least I have some options to pursue!

I'm going to start by trying to simply replace the o-ring (and now I know I'll have to buy a kit.) The factory female quick-disconnect is metal with four metal "locking tabs" internal to the fitting. The locking tabs and the metal fitting look to be in serviceable condition. Therefore, is the o-ring the only thing that needs to be replaced? Or is there another part within the fitting? The reason I ask is that it looks like two different colored (and mangled) pieces of rubber (or plastic) came out of the fitting. The mechanic who did the manifold job previously was a total HACK - so it's possible he put a new o-ring in the fitting but didn't properly extract the old one (which would explain the two different colors.) It's also possible that in addition to the o-ring, there is some other broken part, in which case I will proceed to the Dorman 800-080 option.

Thanks again for the help!
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-25-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
fallfork
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A little update. I purchased Dorman p/n 800-120. This is the metal quick disconnect for a 5/16" tubular quick-connect fuel line to a 5/16" nylon line [for reference, Dorman p/n 800-121 is its 3/8" equivalent]. It's pretty clear that the original OEM assembly included this exact same part. It's also clear when comparing new to old, that the old fitting was completely trashed on the inside - both o-rings broken, plastic spacer askew; moreover, the old fitting was completely missing the plastic external ring that makes it possible to operate the connector manually (i.e. connect/disconnect with your fingers instead of the special tool). I decided there was no practical way to "rebuild" the old connector with parts from the new one. I've removed the old connector from the nylon feed line, and despite much struggle, failed to get the old nylon to slide over the new connector (I used heat, etc.) So... I have now removed all of the nylon line between the quick connector and the metal fuel tube that is mounted on the underside of the intake manifold. I kept the outer foam anti-chafe sleeve from the OEM nylon line. I have ordered 5/16" nylon tubing. And I have ordered a 5/16" quick connect coupling. I hope to use the coupling to connect the steel feed line under the manifold to the new nylon tube. I'll slide the old foam sleeve over the new nylon line. And I also hope to get the new tube to slide over the 800-120 connector. In essence, I'll have a DIY flexible fuel line from that runs from the underside of the intake manifold to the fuel rail. What could go wrong? (ha!) I'll update this thread when parts arrive and I try to execute this fix.
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-08-2019, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
fallfork
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Another update... most of my efforts with getting bulk fuel line to slip over fittings have been a complete fail. I have used a heat gun... and I either kink the line and/or simply can't get the line to progress far enough over the fitting. My quick fix as of now: I have Dorman 800-057 fuel line repair kit installed on the fuel rail. I have trimmed the tube from the kit and connected it to the fuel supply line underneath the intake manifold via a 90 degree quick connect (Dorman 800-321) fitting and a straight (180 degree) quick connect fitting the makes the transition from the nylon fuel line to the steel tube. It's ugly, but it works. I've had great luck with quick connect fittings in household plumbing applications, but I am skeptical of the durability in a high heat, high vibration application like the Jeep. Nonetheless, the engine is now running again and I can focus on some other items that need to get resolved under the hood before I can get back on the road. This is not the last post for this issue. I am going to re-visit some other options and come up with a better fix.
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