1999 TJ wonít go into gear - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
DC5NYC
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1999 TJ wonít go into gear

Hi all...was looking for some advice. Some back story...replaced flywheel, clutch back in 2014, the master and slave in the past year.
It has been having issues with 1st gear, have been just starting off in 2nd...the transmission has had a big leak, having to keep adding fluid. Was waiting for warmer weather to get to that.
So, my husband was on his way home from work (yes, the lady of the house is the family mechanic lol) just getting off the highway and coming to a light. When he went to put it in gear the clutch would not depress, making a thumping sound. Pushed it to the side into a spot thankfully a few blocks from home. I bypassed the clutch safety in order to get it home.
I disconnected the slave to see if it was working and it was fine.
While disconnecting the transmission I found out the shift tower had two loose bolts, hence part of all the oil leaking. Think some water had gotten inside due to the fact the fluid looked milky when I drained it.
Inside the bell housing I found this broken clip
Donít think it would be the cause of the problem
Attaching a few photos. Iím not sure where to begin, should the clutch be replaced?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Attached Thumbnails
58479A9D-6661-4EEF-8C9F-D7657D49BDE7.jpg   73B4EC0B-F839-4F08-BD57-3168818A3796.jpg   5F4B6C0A-3C61-486D-8E4A-30B055BC05E8.jpg  
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 01:55 PM
mukluk
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The two clips are what is supposed to retain the throwout bearing to the clutch fork. As can be seen in your second picture, with those two clips broken the bearing body has rotated 90į so that now the fork isn't pushing it solidly into contact with the pressure plate -- in effect, you can't disengage the clutch because the pressure plate isn't being displaced sufficiently when you depress the pedal.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
DC5NYC
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Thank you Mukluk! So, I should replace the throwout bearing. Do you think it would have damaged the clutch? I noticed the outside of the clutch had some scratches.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 02:19 PM
mukluk
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I'd definitely replace the throwout bearing, yes. It's unlikely the clutch was damaged, but it is showing a fair bit of wear to the fingers of the release spring and it couldn't hurt to replace it since you've got things all apart anyway.

Make sure you clean and very lightly grease the outside of the tube portion of the input shaft bearing retainer, also the clutch fork at the pivot points and where the throwout bearing rides.

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
DC5NYC
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Thank you! Just got back from the parts store...got the Luk clutch kit. Seeing the throwout bearing having plastic, should I get one without the plastic?
Really appreciate your help!
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 05:54 PM
Mattific
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Iíve seen mixed reviews on the luk TOB, but for the most part I think it would be fine. When I replaced my clutch a few years ago, I opted to get a different one and ended up going with the national TOB no issues so far with a little over 30k on it. When I next have to do my clutch though I will probably give the luk one a try
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
DC5NYC
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I’ll post an update on how everything goes. Tomorrow will be installing this.

Question...the shift tower, has a metal gasket plate in between, was thinking I should use gasket maker to seal it along with blue lactate on the bolts. Should I be using red lactate on this part and is it okay to use red gasket maker with the metal plate?
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-27-2021, 08:44 PM
mukluk
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I've read conflicting reviews on the Luk plastic bodied TOB as well, but figured I'd give it a go and see for myself how it holds up -- the one I recently installed in my LJ is this type and so far no issues or complaints.

Not sure that lactating on the bolts will help any, but a dab of medium strength loctite threadlocker should keep them from coming loose again in the future.
Loctite also makes a liquid sealant suitable for closely machined surfaces, or you can use a thin bead of any oil resistant RTV of your choice.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-28-2021, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
I've read conflicting reviews on the Luk plastic bodied TOB as well, but figured I'd give it a go and see for myself how it holds up -- the one I recently installed in my LJ is this type and so far no issues or complaints.

Not sure that lactating on the bolts will help any, but a dab of medium strength loctite threadlocker should keep them from coming loose again in the future.
Loctite also makes a liquid sealant suitable for closely machined surfaces, or you can use a thin bead of any oil resistant RTV of your choice.

Thanks for all the great advice
Itís slow going, coming out of there like a coal miner. Also having an oil leak from the valve cover, so oil everywhere. Glad I got a new clutch....when I took it off the pilot bearing was backwards
Saw the video with the bread to remove lol pita doesnít work. Used a regular slice of bread and it popped right out to my astonishment.
The throwing bearing had nice chunks out of the backside



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