3.0 Turbo Diesel in a JLU - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 56 Old 09-15-2020, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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3.0 Turbo Diesel in a JLU

So the new Eco Diesel is available in the Wrangler Unlimited this year. With it you must have the eight speed automatic. If you buy it with a Sport or Sahara package you get the Gen III Dana 44’s front & rear with 373’s, and Rubicon package with the EcoDiesel gets 373’s too. The turbo diesel will rival the HEMI for power with better fuel economy. I know the HEMI makes more power, but the turbo diesel makes max torque (440) at a very low RPM, less that 2000. The HEMI makes its power above 4000-5000, so you have to rev the HEMI to beat the the little turbo diesel.

So who’s bought one? It seems like the perfect match for a JLU on 35’s with 373’s or 37’s with 410’s. I think I’ll be looking at them, maybe next year after the new engine has been in the Jeep for a while, so they can work out any engineering issues that may arise.


Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
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post #2 of 56 Old 09-16-2020, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
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So no one here has a 3.0 Turbo Diesel Wrangler?

The JL forum seems to have low volume participation. That’s kinda funny, because I see JLU’s on the street constantly every day. I like the lower stance compared to the JKU.

Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
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post #3 of 56 Old 09-16-2020, 06:11 PM
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I am going to be looking at them. I have been watching a couple guys on YouTube that are running them and they seem to be pretty decent in the torque department and mpg. I have had diesel vehicles since 2008 and am used to the DPF and DEF stuff. I think most manufactures have most of the bugs worked out. I did see they will need to redesign the lifts to account for the weight and some shock changes due to engine items. Aside from that they look like the ticket for me. I will be looking hard at them even with the new Ford Bronco coming out.

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post #4 of 56 Old 09-16-2020, 11:37 PM
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If you have a short commute or frequent short drives without enough longer trips, the diesel is not the way to go due to the regen cycle and a three thousand dollar filter that can get clogged up from such use.

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post #5 of 56 Old 09-17-2020, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
If you have a short commute or frequent short drives without enough longer trips, the diesel is not the way to go due to the regen cycle and a three thousand dollar filter that can get clogged up from such use.
Good point. I was reading an article online about the added maintenance cost of the 3.0 EcoDiesel, and the fact it cost more to maintain, thus offsetting the fuel cost savings from better MPG. It was mostly due to oil change cost, and now that I think about it it didn’t mention fuel filters?

Does this new 3.0 EcoDiesel have a fuel filter that must be replaced periodically? I guess I need to do more research, and find out what the added maintenance will be with it.

For me the appeal of the diesel is all about the low end torque, and nothing to do with any possible savings from MPG. My 2005 Duramax has been a great truck, I have never had to upgrade anything on it, it’s a towing machine as is. With 220k+ on the odometer it gets the best MPG ever, I think the engine is finally broke-in.

Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
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post #6 of 56 Old 09-17-2020, 04:50 PM
Prot
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The three thousand dollar filter that can get clogged is a particulate filter.

I was all set to take the plunge into diesel but when I started reading about regen cycle, short commutes, and this expensive filter potentially clogging up from such short use, I decided it is not for me.

My commute for work is four and a half miles each way. The rest of my driving is almost all stop and go short trip city driving, especially during corona.

Yes, I do road trips, pull people out of mud, go to places that I need my lockers, but that’s the exception, not the rule.

My final analysis is the 4XE Rubicon seems targeted at me for my realistic use.

All this city driving due to corona and no road trips or interstate driving has dropped my fuel economy down to the 11-12 mpg range. The only thing making it tolerable is I am not driving much so I actually spending less money on gas.

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post #7 of 56 Old 09-18-2020, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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I am currently teleworking, but that will change eventually, and I will go back to my normal 45 minute commute. Based on that distance, I should be OK driving it to work if I chose to put some miles on it. It it will not be my primary vehicle. I had a 2017 JKU Sahara back in 2018, and I really liked it, the way it drove, it was easy on gas, with a lot of nice options, it really was a nice Jeep, so I think getting into a LJU will work out for me.

I haven’t really found any negative reviews of the Dodge 3.0 turbo Diesel (EcoDiesel) other than when it was newer, in the 2014 thru 2016 timeframe. The versions being built for the Jeep are the third generation, so it has been revised twice. Hopefully they have work all the bugs out of the design, because the more I think about it, the better the Turbo Diesel in a four door Wrangler Sounds.

It looks like the 2021 models get a 345 gearset, instead of 373’s. But the 2021 Rubicon gets 411’s with the 3.0 Turbo Diesel, vice 373’s for all 3.0 Turbo diesels in 2020. That makes a base model Rubicon a little more attractive for me. I definitely don’t like the idea of 345’s since I will be running 35’s at a minimum, and probably 37 eventually.

Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
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post #8 of 56 Old 09-19-2020, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Took a test drive
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Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
View my Pontiac in my profile
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post #9 of 56 Old 09-19-2020, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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This is what happens when you test drive a new car with a an awesome engine...it drug me home as the new owner
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04-RUL, BILLUA and BDW like this.

Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
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post #10 of 56 Old 09-19-2020, 04:18 PM
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3.0 Turbo Diesel in a JLU

. . . recently sold my '98 TJ commuter (not commuting anymore), and I'm now sporting a 2020 JLUR Eco-Diesel. Having never owned a diesel engine, there's a bunch of questions. Top of the list is: [U]How often is the fuel/water separator supposed to be drained? [U] The manual only mentions maintenance when the 'water in fuel' light comes on, and makes it sound like an emergency.

“ . . . At this point you should stop the engine and drain the water from the filter housing. Within 10 minutes of vehicle shutdown, turn the filter drain valve (located on the bottom of the filter housing) counterclockwise to drain fuel/water; allow the accumulated water to drain. Leave the drain valve open until all water and contaminants have been removed . . . .”

The dealer says wait 'til the light goes on. Seems to me there oughta be a schedule. Any experience with fuel/water separators on diesels?
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post #11 of 56 Old 09-20-2020, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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I have a Duramax LLY that I bought new in 2005. I have never had a fuel problem, and that includes water in the fuel. I have changed the fuel filter when the light comes on, which is a easy task, takes about ten minutes. If the dealer and the manufacturer says wait for a warning light, then that’s what you should do. It probably wouldn’t hurt to drain it on a schedule, but it is not required. The reason it is not required is diesel fuel does not normally have water in it, the system is there for the rare event that you do get water in the fuel.

Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
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post #12 of 56 Old 09-21-2020, 12:26 AM
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I just wish the diesels today were as simple as they were long ago. If they were, I would trade in my current JkU immediately.

The thought of a three thousand dollar particulate filter getting clogged just from not driving far enough is mind boggling. The engine also goes into limp mode when that happens. It makes no sense to build something that works that way.

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post #13 of 56 Old 09-28-2020, 06:35 PM
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The diesel fuel filter does three things:
It filter the fuel
It separates out water
It heats it in cold weather to prevent the filter from clogging with wax.

The filter element should be changed per the service info.

Diesel fuel does not normally contain water, but it is a big problem when it does. The filter material keeps water on the dirty side, to a point. Well before that point, the water activates a sensor that turns on the Water in Fuel light. At that point you stop and drain the water out of the filter housing. It may come on several times, depending on how contaminated the fuel is. If you ignore it, enough water will build up and the pressure from the fuel pump will force it through, at which point the filter loses its ability to stop water. You will also be replacing the very expensive high pressure pump shortly thereafter.
So, yes, the Water In Fuel light is an "emergency" item, you do not have to drain it on a regular schedule. But the filter element does need to be replaced periodically.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TJNewbie98 View Post
. . . recently sold my '98 TJ commuter (not commuting anymore), and I'm now sporting a 2020 JLUR Eco-Diesel. Having never owned a diesel engine, there's a bunch of questions. Top of the list is: [U]How often is the fuel/water separator supposed to be drained? [U] The manual only mentions maintenance when the 'water in fuel' light comes on, and makes it sound like an emergency.

“ . . . At this point you should stop the engine and drain the water from the filter housing. Within 10 minutes of vehicle shutdown, turn the filter drain valve (located on the bottom of the filter housing) counterclockwise to drain fuel/water; allow the accumulated water to drain. Leave the drain valve open until all water and contaminants have been removed . . . .”

The dealer says wait 'til the light goes on. Seems to me there oughta be a schedule. Any experience with fuel/water separators on diesels?
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post #14 of 56 Old 09-29-2020, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for clarifying! I read that internal moisture is diesel engine Kryptonite, and as confirmed here, proper fuel filter maintenance is critical.
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post #15 of 56 Old 09-29-2020, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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According to my 2020 Wrangler “Diesel Supplement” the fuel filter should have the water drained during each oil change. So it is a scheduled maintenance procedure. The fuel filter should be replaced every other oil change. I dont see any harm in draining it more frequently just to see if any water comes out. I would suspect no water would come out normally, unless you get a bad bag of gas.
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Why do I own a CJ? I like to “Balance the wrench and the steering wheel”
1985 CJ-7 Sebring Red, White hardtop, 284 CID inline six (4.7) TF 999 auto
2020 JLU Black, Black hardtop, EcoDiesel, 35’s on 2” Mopar lift
View my Pontiac in my profile
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