World Class T5 ??? - JeepForum.com
 2Likes
  • 2 Post By torkman1983
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 04-08-2021, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
Cj World Class T5 ???

Folks, I want to change the fluid in my '85 World Class T5 manual transmission and trying to hit a home run with the use of the CORRECT fluid. I've done a lot of research but now conflicted on which is best? The FSM recommended fluid is difficult to obtain (revised version) and I don't want to take any chances on using the GL-5 oil (Napa). I'm leaning toward the Amsoil brand "MTFQT-EA" oil and wondering if anyone has used this with success?

TRANS SYMPTOMS: runs good but at times I notice slight difficulty is shifting gears; usually after it warms up but not in all gears. Mostly into 2nd but again not always. I thought is may have been the clutch but my front tires don't skip at start off (1st gear) at all. Also, I have been smelling slight oil; like a mild burnt smell at times, so I need to check the transmission level, drain and replace. Not too long ago I noticed oil in the back end of the case and now wondering if it was actually leaking. At the time I cleaned the entire area well and have not seen any oil what-so-ever in that surrounding area, which is why I assumed all was fine. Maybe it is LOW and there's nothing to leak? Anyway, I want to replace with the CORRECT and BEST fluid. Thoughts?

258 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 07:47 AM
torkman1983
Retired Air Force
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 371
Are you certain it is a WC T5 and not the NWC? Did you have it built from a modern WC and have the output shaft shortened? If it is actually a WC then use the oil described from the newer vehicle (mustang) you took it from. If it is an original Jeep T5 (NWC) then I suggest Synchromesh. Get two quarts from Amazon. See my recent post on this issue.
258 and STJP like this.
torkman1983 is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
Cj

Quote:
Originally Posted by torkman1983 View Post
Are you certain it is a WC T5 and not the NWC? Did you have it built from a modern WC and have the output shaft shortened? If it is actually a WC then use the oil described from the newer vehicle (mustang) you took it from. If it is an original Jeep T5 (NWC) then I suggest Synchromesh. Get two quarts from Amazon. See my recent post on this issue.
I got that info from the numbers stamped at top of the T5 (see image). There is also a metal tag I can't seem to reach without removing the trans cover plate. It's well under tucked away behind skid plate. I will do that right now and try to read those numbers.
Attached Images
 
258 is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 12:29 PM
torkman1983
Retired Air Force
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 371
Check this out:
Attached Thumbnails
T5.jpg   T5 2.jpg  
torkman1983 is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 12:34 PM
torkman1983
Retired Air Force
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 371
Pasted from web page:
"The abbreviation "WC" stands for "world-class", which was the term Borg-Warner used to promote improved, second-generation versions of their popular five speed manual transmissions. World-class T5's were used in various Ford models starting in the 1985 model year, and in various GM models starting in the 1988 model year.

What makes a world-class T5 preferable? The world-class T5 transmission had bearings on 1st, 2nd and 3rd mainshaft gears whereas the non-world-class T5 transmissions didn't. Secondly, the world-class transmissions used tapered roller bearings on the countershaft, whereas non-world-class transmissions used flat (cylindrical) roller bearings. The synchronizers are also quite different: world-class T5 transmissions used 3-piece blocker rings on 1st and 2nd and friction-lined (aka "fiber" or "composite") powder-coated steel-core rings on 3rd and 4th for longer life. Non-world-class T5 transmissions used one-piece brass blocker rings throughout. With these improvements, the world-class transmissions have proven more durable, although both kinds are rebuildable. (Generally, world-class T5 transmissions have higher torque ratings. Many of the non-world-class transmissions are rated for 265 ft-lbs, whereas many of the world-class transmissions are rated at 300 ft-lbs. The Ford Motorsports "T5z" is rated 330 ft-lbs.)"
torkman1983 is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 01:24 PM
oldschool74cj5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 848
hello
amc jeep was broke back then. they never offered a world class t5 for any of there cars. the closest thing they had was a set of bearings like the wc just for the first gear on the last couple of years. jeep used the NWC transmissions which call for a gear oil not ATF. they tried atf from the factory. after quite a few had problems with shifting and blowing gears and shafts. then a bulletin came out to switch to there spec number which is a gl4 gear oil.

oldschool
oldschool74cj5 is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
I was already at that site. But here are the #’s from my tag:

E85953001945E 1451
* - 52-D77 38594

On case:
Borg Warner 85
3-51-097-901

I can’t make out the first #/or letter on bottom row!
258 is offline  
post #8 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
Cj

Quote:
Originally Posted by torkman1983 View Post
Are you certain it is a WC T5 and not the NWC? Did you have it built from a modern WC and have the output shaft shortened? If it is actually a WC then use the oil described from the newer vehicle (mustang) you took it from. If it is an original Jeep T5 (NWC) then I suggest Synchromesh. Get two quarts from Amazon. See my recent post on this issue.
After looking further into it, I'm not sure. Hmmm? I can't seem to match those tag numbers. PITA! lol
258 is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 06:15 PM
torkman1983
Retired Air Force
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 371
You copied it wrong. Hard to tell some letters...your D is an 0 but what you have is
1352-077 AMC 1985-86 Jeep CJ 258 L6 Which is what you should have in that Jeep. So, it is a NWC and you should run 80w90 gear oil or what I prefer, Synchromesh
Attached Images
 
torkman1983 is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 04-09-2021, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
Cj

Quote:
Originally Posted by torkman1983 View Post
You copied it wrong. Hard to tell some letters...your D is an 0 but what you have is
1352-077 AMC 1985-86 Jeep CJ 258 L6 Which is what you should have in that Jeep. So, it is a NWC and you should run 89w90 gear oil or what I prefer, Synchromesh
Awesome . . . Thanks!
I swear I looked at that "0" and it looked like a "D", lol. I had to remove the top floor panel, the B&M shifters knobs (carpet holes) along with carpet to get a glance from a top view. It was well behind the skid plate and was the only way.

That provided number helped tremendously. Here is a website for others to identify theirs if they don't already know.
http://www.britishv8.org/articles/bo...t5-id-tags.htm

* On a plus I guess, I noticed coolant underneath the carpet on the passenger side. Not much but added that to the list of "Next Projects". At least now I know why I was smelling an odd odor.
258 is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old 04-10-2021, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
258
Registered User
 
258's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SP
Posts: 2,774
Here’s a frustrating scenario! So simple yet so FAR? . . . I can not for the life of me get a wrench; open or boxed, to fit the drain plug where I can have any type of room to wrench it off. That darn square “fill” plug is just at that frustrating position which does not allow that to happen from either top or bottom, front or back of tranny. The drain plug is no problem however!

The last time it was filled, the skin plate was off but I did not want to remove it this round; or at least trying to avoid that. Everything is clean and tight underneath! Seriously had to walk away for a minute, lol. Geez! Would use a socket but for some reason I don’t have the correct size. One of those days for me! Now I’m just swinging on a hammock and listening to Miles Davis to rethink things and calm the nerves.
258 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome