Windshield frame & WW motor and linkage - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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Windshield frame & WW motor and linkage

My WW’s failed yesterday. It seems like the linkage broke or disconnected from the electric motor, or jammed. Both wipers stopped motion in addition to being out of sync when they stopped. This happened on the way to work. When I started it to leave work the passenger side moved to the park position, the driver side didn’t move, even though the switch was off. This leads me to believe the motor is OK. My driver side arm/post is crooked, and the OEM frame sheet metal is bent adjacent to the crooked arm/post. I’ve read up on the “washer install” as being a solution for some, so that will be my first step in a temporary fix, or maybe longer, who knows at this point.

I am not opposed to replacing everything in order to make it right, but I would prefer to delay frame replacement until I tear this Jeep apart for repaint. Since a new frame will need to get painted.

I’ll be trying to fix it this weekend.

In the event I can’t make the old windshield frame work this weekend,I’ll be ordering a replacement on Monday. I understand some of the replacement frames have a bead between the wipers that strengthens it. My question is what company makes the best replacement frame for a late CJ-7. What brand motors, linkage and arms are the best or should I source OEM parts in good condition. I will retain the OEM look & style. Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:30 AM
John Strenk
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Pop off the inspection panels and look at the pivot and note it's location.

Do you have a dash pad? You may have to fold down the windshield to get to the panels.

You might want to disconnect your battery so you don't accidentally start the wiper motor and pinch a finger.
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post #3 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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My tub/windshield seal leaks too, but that’s normal. Who makes the best replacement seal? I may be replacing it too, depending on what I find after folding the windshield down.
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post #4 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:41 AM
John Strenk
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Also, start oiling up your hinges so you don't bend them folding down the windshield.

Don't know about the seal, none work on mine but my tub and window frame are fiberglass.


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post #5 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
Axhammer
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Yes, I have a dash pad. You can see it in the picture attached. How does it come off? I never really looked at it. Does it need to come off too?
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post #6 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 06:45 AM
John Strenk
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If you fold the windshield down, you don't have to remove the pad.

There are some screws in the dash below the the pad and some screws under the window frame going into the tub. Hard to explain but if you fold the window frame down, you can see it right away.


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post #7 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 07:22 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Axhammer,


I have the same repair to make. My driver's side wiper is binding and starting to bend the windshield frame. I've already tried the fender washer trick, but it didn't solve the problem.

You will have to disconnect the hard top from the windshield frame. Then lower the windshield to access the screws for the top of dash pad. Remove the top and bottom dash pad screws and set the pad out of the way. That will allow you access to the oval shaped holes in the frame to disconnect the wiper linkages. Be careful not to lose the little c-clips that hold the linkages together. Once the linkages are apart the motor can be removed.

That's how it all comes apart. I'm still trying to figure out what my next repair attempt will be. My wipers operate freely when the motor linkage isn't connected, but bind up with motor connected. I'll be watching to see what you come up with.

Matt
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post #8 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 07:23 AM
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Oiling the hinges now in preparation for the weekend is great advice . The hinges will most assuredly bend if the pivot pins are frozen and excess pressure is applied when folding the windshield forward. Happened to me, and hinge replacement is an exceedingly frustrating process with an intact instrument panel. As for removing the dash pad, there are eight screws total - four screws through the front into to the instrument panel, and as John indicates, once the windshield is tilted forward, you'll see four more through metal tabs attaching the dash to the body. Also, if your cowl seal is installed correctly, it should remain attached to the bottom of the windshield with several screws. If the cowl seal tries to 'stick' to the body, be wary for silicone, or other sealant - the cowl seal will tear. Shouldn't be any, but some PO's are overzealous in attempts to stops water leaks!

Hoov

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post #9 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 07:35 AM
John Strenk
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If he folds the windshield down, couldn't he leave the dash pad in place to access the WW mechanism?

Before you put it all back together, Lubricate the pivots with a little oil so they move freely.


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post #10 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
If he folds the windshield down, couldn't he leave the dash pad in place to access the WW mechanism?
Absolutely. No need to remove the pad once it's folded.

And inspect the linkages closely for any sign wear (ovaling) in the bushings. Any bit of slop in those results in jerky motion and places additional stress on the pivots.

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post #11 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 08:02 AM
John Strenk
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Now that I have my Windshield out I'm thinking of pinning them in place.

I'll mount them in place. Drill a hole through the Windshield into the pivot flange.

Press in a pin or maybe tap it for a 4-40 flathead screw.

Maybe even drill the washer.

It will hopefully keep the pivot from twisting
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post #12 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 08:04 AM
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I had to replace my windshield frame on our 74. I looked for a used one to no avail so was forced to use the Crown replacement. I contracted with a glass installer to remove and install the glass. He came to my house to do the work. His preference was to work with the windshield on the Jeep. He said the Crown gasket was too hard and if we had too do it again let him get the gasket. It wasn't molded to fit, but was linear and he could buy it by the foot. He charged me $50 and helped me install the new frame.

I recommend if you change the gasket get a professional do the job. If you break it it is your dime. If he does he has insurance. Let him get the gasket. Also if your current windshield isn't tinted this would be a the time to replace it.

Meanwhile buy some RainEx. Good luck!

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post #13 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
My tub/windshield seal leaks too, but that’s normal. Who makes the best replacement seal? I may be replacing it too, depending on what I find after folding the windshield down.
I used this windshield to tub seal and have been very pleased with it. It is much thicker than the aftermarket one that I removed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-CJ-cow...106-2609!US!-1
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post #14 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 09:07 AM
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John, if you'll look closely at your picture you'll see that the pivot housing has a small protrusion on the bottom side. The hole in the windshield frame for the housing is round with a small notch to accept the protrusion that is supposed to keep the housing from rotating. Maybe your protrusion is too worn down or the notch is too wallowed out to work?

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post #15 of 61 Old 10-10-2019, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the great input! I love this place. There was a new unused frame (double beaded) & glass (tinted) on CL recently...I should have bought it

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