What is the right way to replace manual steering box - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-10-2020, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
Submariner
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What is the right way to replace manual steering box

I have a 1976 cj5 with manual steering. a bit loose. LOL.

I want to install power steering. I already pulled the old manual steering box. So what are the right parts to hunt down to make the change.

I am running a 360 v8. I know I need the pump, hoses, and steering box. But what else should I change?

I also need to replace the lower bearing/quide at the bottom of the steering column and would not be a bad idea to replace the swivel/u-joint on the steering rod.

Suggestions? Ideas. Thanks

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post #2 of 10 Old 07-11-2020, 07:13 AM
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I would start off by choosing the power steering box first and work from there. AMC often used a Saginaw box 800/808 and these are very durable, the difference is the size of piston. I would use the Saginaw 808 as used in FSJ. Some people use Hummer boxes. the 800/808 series were in literally millions of vehicles and is very cheap to buy and rebuild.

When mounting it, be aware that frame cracks are common and a brace to the crossmember is advisable to keep it under control. These can be purchased.

In 1980 the input shaft on the Saginaw boxes changed from 13/16-36 to 3/4-30. You need to check the box you get by counting splines. There will be a missing spline which keyed the shaft correctly, count this as a spline. You then need to get the correct lower shaft to match the spline count and diameter.

At the same time the fittings changed from SAE to metric. This will dictate the hoses you buy.

The pitman arm you run will depend on the lift. Ideally it should drop enough to bring the drag link almost parallel with the tie rod. This will stop the steering waywardness seen in lifted rigs with standard pitman arms.

The pump can come from a number of sources, i am running Toyota Landcruiser pumps with remote reservoirs on several Jeeps quite successfully but there is nothing wrong with the Saginaw pumps. Stock would have been the pump inside the ham can reservoir. Hose ends depend again on what fittings it takes.

You can get hoses made custom for very little, they are crimped hoses. If you mount it in the stock location you may be able to get stock hoses, they cost little.

The bracketry on the engine will need to be changed for the pump. A stock location makes it simpler, some muppet put it on the opposite side on my J20 and moved the alternator to the wrong side on to a bracket that does not work very well.

The example setup on a V8 includes the air pump at top right. You do not have this, so the belt goes round the water pump and crankshaft and power steering pump. You should have a spare groove on the pulleys, check. Check your pump pulley lines up.

All these diagrams are from the 1981 FSM and parts book. they may not apply to an earlier engine but them again AMC did not change much from year to year.
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J10 V8 Power steering bracket.jpg   drive pulleys.jpg  
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-11-2020, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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I think some "muppet" did some changes to my engine configuration. Here is a picture.

I am in the process of putting in a new cam at the same time I am changing to power steering. everthing is off, so now it the time to set things right. and make sure it all goes back together in good working order. LOL
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-11-2020, 07:42 AM
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Yep, it needs quite a few parts changing to make it run properly. I always try to put them back to stock where I can, any changes need to be well researched and justified. Jeep parts availability is great, most of it can be ordered on the internet.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-11-2020, 08:06 AM
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hello
i would get a all the parts for the year that your jeep is the steering gear, pump, and hoses. the reason i say that is if you ever need a new hose later down the road your not trying to figure out which one to get. i would also change the lower column shaft to the borgeson ones. less problems with the lower joint. my jeep has one and i like it. i just wish the P.O. who installed it bought the one with the vibration joint on the bottom but not that big of deal.

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post #6 of 10 Old 07-11-2020, 10:17 AM
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This is the only video I could fined of the stock bracket setup on a V8. It looks the bracket is for both the steering pump and the air pump but you do not have to run the air pump.


Hummer H1 boxes are getting really hard to find. I found one on Rockauto and I really like it. Choose carefully as your choice will affect your steering shaft spline choice, your pitman arm spline choice and your power steering hose spline choice. As said above, early steering foxes use a flare fitting and later boxes use a metric O-ring fitting for the pressure and return lines. It really does not matter what you choose, but you have to get the correct hoses to match. The hoses will have either flare on each end or metric O-ring on each end so you have to match the pump and the box unless you want to get into conversion adapters or custom hoses. I am not sure a 304 was put in a Jeep late enough to get the metric O-ring setup, but others can probably answer that question.

You may want to look into a MORE power steering box bracket. There are two versions. Make sure you get the standard version as the other version is made for people who stretch the weelebase and will cause you problems. You can probably find it a bit cheaper from a third party vender.

https://mountainoffroad.com/products...t-h-d-76-86-cj

The Borgerson steering shaft is a good suggestion. They make a quality part. There are less expensive options that would also probably be fine. You need something different than what you have. The spline and length is different.

I would look for stock brackets for the engine. You can use stock hoses that way. I would run a Saginaw pump as it will fit the stock bracket and stock hoses. There are aftermarket hose kits available where you can make custom lengths at home if you end up with something other than a stock setup like I did.

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=112&page=1
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-03-2020, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I got the 76 CJ back together. It now has power steering. And this was really easier then I figured that is would be.

I still have one issue that I need to resolve but I am going to live with it for a while until I can get the right part. Pitman arm is at to much of an angle.

Here is what I did.
Got down to the frame, removed the front clip. Which made it easy to get everything set in place. Removed the old steering box. Rusty bolts but them came free and out it came. replaced the rubber boot int the universal in the steering rod and replaced the bearing in the lower steering column. Painted things up to make em pretty.

I installed a 1998 "Cherokee" power steering box. Yes a 1998 Cherokee. Bolted right in, no problems there. It had the same 3 bolt pattern as the 76 manual steering box.

Now for the power steering pump and brackets for a 1979 Wagoneer 360 v8. I was at a local salvage yard and they had a "1972 Wagoneer" that still had the pump and brackets still intake on a 360 v8. Yes it was still full of fluid and for $40, I got the pump/bracket/hoses/bolts in one stop. Now is where I was having issues. the ends for the hoses were different in configuration for the pressure hose. Which a $8 pipe connection, I joined the end for the steering box to the end with the pump and return line is just a hose end going over a pipe with a hose clamp.

When it came to putting the steering column rod in, all the splines were the same for the rod and the power steering pump. Like I said it was almost to easy.

I just had to adjust the drag link to make the proper steering wheel placement. filled it with a less then a quart of fluid and it all works. nice and easy.

I know it make not be the strongest but at least it is together and it works better then manual steering. This probable cost me less then $100 to do. and all the pieces are accessible for a little while longer. I will edit this latter and post some pictures when I get em.
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-03-2020, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
I would start off by choosing the power steering box first and work from there. AMC often used a Saginaw box 800/808 and these are very durable, the difference is the size of piston. I would use the Saginaw 808 as used in FSJ. Some people use Hummer boxes. the 800/808 series were in literally millions of vehicles and is very cheap to buy and rebuild.

When mounting it, be aware that frame cracks are common and a brace to the crossmember is advisable to keep it under control. These can be purchased.

In 1980 the input shaft on the Saginaw boxes changed from 13/16-36 to 3/4-30. You need to check the box you get by counting splines. There will be a missing spline which keyed the shaft correctly, count this as a spline. You then need to get the correct lower shaft to match the spline count and diameter.

At the same time the fittings changed from SAE to metric. This will dictate the hoses you buy.

The pitman arm you run will depend on the lift. Ideally it should drop enough to bring the drag link almost parallel with the tie rod. This will stop the steering waywardness seen in lifted rigs with standard pitman arms.

The pump can come from a number of sources, i am running Toyota Landcruiser pumps with remote reservoirs on several Jeeps quite successfully but there is nothing wrong with the Saginaw pumps. Stock would have been the pump inside the ham can reservoir. Hose ends depend again on what fittings it takes.

You can get hoses made custom for very little, they are crimped hoses. If you mount it in the stock location you may be able to get stock hoses, they cost little.

The bracketry on the engine will need to be changed for the pump. A stock location makes it simpler, some muppet put it on the opposite side on my J20 and moved the alternator to the wrong side on to a bracket that does not work very well.

The example setup on a V8 includes the air pump at top right. You do not have this, so the belt goes round the water pump and crankshaft and power steering pump. You should have a spare groove on the pulleys, check. Check your pump pulley lines up.

All these diagrams are from the 1981 FSM and parts book. they may not apply to an earlier engine but them again AMC did not change much from year to year.
The picture you posted for a 1981 is the same as for a 1972 and it worked the same. I picked up a pump/brackets/bolts/hoses out of a salvage yard for $40. and it all fit and worked. thanks.

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post #9 of 10 Old 08-06-2020, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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So my next issue is how to replace this? it is the lower part of the steering column. it is worn and sloppy
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-06-2020, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
So my next issue is how to replace this? it is the lower part of the steering column. it is worn and sloppy
Your gonna have to replace the whole shaft. The u-joint is not replaceable like the earlier models (1972-1975).

I think the whole shaft (manual or power) is around $140.

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