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Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat
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I picked up a new motor today. I think mine is a blazer motor, but for 15 bucks from auto zone, I just figured I would change it out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cJAY904
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You will know when you put t back together. If it was a blazer motor, you will not have to cut the firewall. This is a great write-up of how to fix the heater box. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/c...-heavy-975999/
I did this a few years ago. I placed (wedged, actually) a length of 1" x 12" board in front of the firewall to cover the old hole, then figured out where the center of the new larger hole needed to be and used a hole saw to cut the new hole from the cab side. Much neater and tidier than trying to cut a round hole by hand with a saws-all or whatever.
"Let all the laws be clear, uniform and precise:
To interpret laws is almost always to corrupt them."
~ Voltaire
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Finished putting the dash back in along with new SpeedHut gauges and a new stereo head unit last weekend, so yesterday I got the hard top and doors out of storage to put on for the winter.
That's when I discovered that the new windshield frame is not square. I got the top on, but I'm going to have to address the windshield frame issue before the winter weather sets in for good.
That's when I discovered that the new windshield frame is not square. I got the top on, but I'm going to have to address the windshield frame issue before the winter weather sets in for good.
"Let all the laws be clear, uniform and precise:
To interpret laws is almost always to corrupt them."
~ Voltaire
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May have put some higher wattage hella bulbs 80/100w into my hella h4 headlight housings. Much improved light output on low without blinding others since aimed low, but the highs.... holy hell they're bright.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l131/jeeperman19/carcrush-1.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l131/jeeperman19/rubiconmemorial.jpg
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Got the new Centric Master Cylinder installed with all four wheel cylinders bleeding nicely. Pedal feels so good now. No more spongy pedal to the floor. It was a fun little project and a friend showed me how to properly bench bleed the master cylinder. We also found loose hard lines from a previous attempted brake job that should have been attached to the body but were not. So we re-secured all those to rid of the little clicking sounds from underneath. Very clean installation!
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Finally got my door seal in and working . I think the first seal I bought for it was too flimsy causing it to bunch up. Were good now.
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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My valve cover gasket blew out with the cold weather. I think it was hanging out some that caused it. I'm gonna try putting it on with no rtv unless I need to hold it in place in which case I'll use a dab of permatex high tack. Putting it on dry with no rtv worked last time making me a believer.
Update. Done ,now to see if it leaks
Update. Done ,now to see if it leaks
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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My hard doors are fully assembled . They're the most finicky thing on the jeep to me. The lock on the passenger side is a little sloppy and they sent me a defective glass scrubber seal . Itll work for now. I have matching window cranks.
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt44
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Finished putting the dash back in along with new SpeedHut gauges and a new stereo head unit last weekend, so yesterday I got the hard top and doors out of storage to put on for the winter.
That's when I discovered that the new windshield frame is not square. I got the top on, but I'm going to have to address the windshield frame issue before the winter weather sets in for good.
That's when I discovered that the new windshield frame is not square. I got the top on, but I'm going to have to address the windshield frame issue before the winter weather sets in for good.
Let us know how the Speed Hut gauges work out.
JS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STJP
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Colt44,
Let us know how the Speed Hut gauges work out.
JS
Let us know how the Speed Hut gauges work out.
JS
1983 CJ7, 5.3, NV3550, D300 4:1, Fr D44 Detroit, Rr D44 OX, 4.56, 35" SSTs on beadlocks
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Vacuumed it out and screwed dow my carpet to fit a little tighter
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by schardein
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I installed the Speedhut CJ gauge the year they came out. No issues since then. In my opinion, the Speedhut CJ speedo is the best CJ specific aftermarket part to be made in recent history. They survived a 3 hour summer thunderstorm with the top off and windshield down while being towed back from the Palo Duro Jeep Jamboree near Amarillo to Missouri in 2018. Besides the speedo, clock, and tach, the other gauges in their CJ line up do not match the originals even remotely, so I used the oil and volts gauges from their Legacy line.
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(Crabtree Shackle Hangers)
My build thread
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Did the rear drums. Found hornets nests in both drums. Bought all the springs, shoes, and drums from Autozone for $100. The assembly is extremely easy. One of the adjusters was frozen solid. $5 for a replacement.
Also when I took off the leaf springs for a refurb job and new bushings... well, they fell into pieces at removal. Ordered new ones for $105 bucks each. Will do that next weekend.
Also painted my rear wheels! Woohoo!
Also when I took off the leaf springs for a refurb job and new bushings... well, they fell into pieces at removal. Ordered new ones for $105 bucks each. Will do that next weekend.
Also painted my rear wheels! Woohoo!
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