Weber reinstallation not going well - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 66 Old 12-19-2009, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
wm69
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Weber reinstallation not going well

Got my weber 32/36 off of the Jeep (10 years old, first time I've taken it off), cleaned it up, put a kit in it, and put it back on, along with a Holley FPR. I got everything back in place, and now I can't get the thing to run right.

It will start, and will idle roughly. If I give it gas it will backfire a time or two. This happens regardless of where my mixture screw is.

I started at the baseline of 2 revoltions out on hte mixture screw, and 1 1/2 turns in on the idle speed screw (after it touches the throttle linkage).

After reading Fjguercio's thread/ before I started this I called Jose and he said my jets were correct for my location/setup.

Not sure where to look first. I have limited experience with carbs, and I've never messed with the Weber at all. I put a kit in and installed a MC2100 on my other Jeep and it went without a hitch.

Anyone tell me where I should look first?

I'm running a team rush ignition, and I haven't messed with timing or ignition at all. Jeep ran ok before, but was running rich, so I figured I'd clean it out good and add a FPR. Now I'm stuck.

Thanks


85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #2 of 66 Old 12-19-2009, 06:06 PM
mcmud
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I think that you have described the classic example of either too much air or too little fuel.

Starting with possibly the most troublesome of the two. Maybe you have an air leak resulting from the reinstall. Check the mounting surfaces of the adapter plates or a vacuum tube not fully connected .

Of course the engine must be running rather smoothly to be able to detect most air leaks. So to get it running I suggest that you back the mix screws out to at least 3 turns, 3 1/2 will cause no harm if necessary at this time. If that does not do it then run the speed screw in to two turns if that does not do the trick then run it in some more.

If this does not have the engine running so as to attempt to manage a tune sequence then open up the FPR so to allow some fuel by.

Once it will idle and accelerate in a reliable and stable manner get back on and report what you found.
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post #3 of 66 Old 12-19-2009, 06:18 PM
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Check for a vaccum leak. Did you damage a gasket on the install? Sounds like too much air. Not much to a weber to screw up.

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post #4 of 66 Old 12-19-2009, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'll check for vacuum leak and also open the FPR up a bit and see if that helps. I fiddled with it for about 45 min this afternoon and it would idle but any time I tried to give it gas it would backfire and run rough.

Gave up on it tonight because it was cold and getting dark. I'll fool with it again in the am. Thanks for the suggestions.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #5 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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OK, removed the FPR completely. Took the carb back off and put gasket sealer on the gasket. Bolted it back down, hooked everything back up. No change

I have the idle speed screw at 1 1/2 turns in from first contact with thottle arm. I have screwed the mixture screw all the way in (very rough idle) all the way to almost having the thing completely screwed out of the carbuerator, and the only difference is as I screw the mixture screw out it will go from only backfiring in the exhaust to backfiring back up through the carb.

At this point I'm about ready to slap one of my extra MC2100's on there.

The only thing I haven't checked is my timing. I have not fooled with it since the engine was rebuilt. I guess I need to get a timing light and see exactly where it is right now. The guy who built the engine said "On that carb I had to screw the idle speed screw all the way in to get it to idle". I konw that's not how it's supposed to be, so I figured I would take it off, put a kit in it, and get it right. He said he doesn't rebuild carbs on his engines, he puts new ones on (he's a speed shop, knows what he's doing, but doesn't ever take the cheap way) Now I can't even get the thing to run without popping.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #6 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 12:43 PM
Fjguercio
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The weber tune and jet thread you refered to.... when you refer to article put the link so other can follow also.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/we...-258-a-631105/

What did you change in the carb rebuild kit??

What jets did you have in your carb, that you have run for 10 years... the run and idle jets??

When you take a carb apart... take pictures so you can get the hose and such back the same way... its a nice second ck... Alway bottom out carefull the mix/flow type screws and write down the settings... When you assemble put them back to same setting it will be closer than any guess you have latter during assemble.

Why do you want to start mix/flow screw at 2??? and inother thread helper told a guy to start at 3 turns. The write ups tell you the settings will be in the 1.25 to 1.5 range so why not start there??? If you did not record you setting, and you should.... why make up your own setting????????????

Did you use a new top plate gasket?? In the artilce you will see I had a casting flashing pc that cut my top plate gasket and I had a total carb failure. If you did not put this on right it could cause similar issues.

From your last post on FPR... cannot set this with a guess... in the article it says to set at 3 to 3.5 psi and this is not a guess. So get a 0-15 psi gauge and a brass adapter if needed and set it correctly. I also leave my guage on there it is nice to see the pressure and good for trouble shooting.

If you did not buy your carb at the importer Weber Carb Direct you should only be asking Jose questions if you buy your rebuild kit and jets from him. I hope you did not ask him for free jets for a ten year old carb you did not buy from that importer??? They need to make a buck too.

BACK Fire... you might have moved the distributor when you did the teamrush and your work above. When you make carb and ignition and other changes the time needs be checked and redone anyways. Even after you get the carb tweeked in again I would go back and play with the time again.

So take the top plate off and when replace make sure you go slowly and evenly on all fasteners. There is also a spring clip that goes under the float... the float lowers and pulls the spring/needle seat down to allow fuel flow and if you missed this only high press fuel is going to allow it to run at all.

Those are my guesses
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post #7 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69 View Post
"On that carb I had to screw the idle speed screw all the way in to get it to idle". I konw that's not how it's supposed to be, so I figured I would take it off, put a kit in it, and get it right. .
This is spelled out clearly in the Weber Tune Article and the links.... if you have to screw the idle screw all the way down and cut the spring even got the the motor to idle. The idle jets are too big... this opens up the throttle plats and makes the rich condition even worse because not the progression ports are now exposed and allow more fuel to flow as well as the air to pass the plates. Even discussed how you can use a vacuum gauge to verifty the plates are open a little and closed when the correct jets and idle screw setting are used.

You can keep guessing or read and use the info that was given??

AND... from what you have posted so far you have a TIME issue too. Just doing the TeamRush or any cap/rotar change and you should check the time. You hoped up motor builder should realize if the screw is turned all the way in that is wrong and something is not correct.
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post #8 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 06:49 PM
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Well it is not the report that I had hoped to see.

Let me say that I had elected to suggest the richer mix setting so to possibly overcome a suspected air leak and allow the engine to run while you had time to find a cause.

The backfire thru the tailpipe with the baseline settings you had still could indicate an air leak, idle passages clogged or even metering jets(air and fuel) plugged, and a host of choke issues.

I would like to suggest that you do remove the cover and verify that the retain clip on the needle valve is indeed holding the float arm and that the cover gasket is not flipped so as to cover the power valve air aperture shown in the photo. Set one way it will, the correct placement will not.

I think that I read where you looked at the idle jets so in the kit there should be two O rings to attach onto the jet holders make certain that they are in place and that the holders a firmly seated.

It is obvious to you now that more than 3-1/2 turns out on the mix screw will cause a flooding pop at the carb. I suggested that as a point to start from as the leaning adjustment would be inward from there.

I can only assume that the engine builder would have set the initial time prior to returning it over to you. However if you can return the screws to the base line and start it so to verify the initial setting all the much better.
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post #9 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
The weber tune and jet thread you refered to.... when you refer to article put the link so other can follow also.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/we...-258-a-631105/

What did you change in the carb rebuild kit??

What jets did you have in your carb, that you have run for 10 years... the run and idle jets??
Idle jets are 65 and 50, run jets are 145s

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
When you take a carb apart... take pictures so you can get the hose and such back the same way... its a nice second ck... Alway bottom out carefull the mix/flow type screws and write down the settings... When you assemble put them back to same setting it will be closer than any guess you have latter during assemble.
I did get the hoses hooked back up as they were before. The Jeep is nuttered so all I have are PCV, fuel line, bowl vent, and vacuum line that is T'd to distributor and goes to CTO. This is how it was done 10 years ago and that's how I hooked it back up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Why do you want to start mix/flow screw at 2??? and inother thread helper told a guy to start at 3 turns. The write ups tell you the settings will be in the 1.25 to 1.5 range so why not start there??? If you did not record you setting, and you should.... why make up your own setting????????????
I didn't record my settings because I knew they were not correct. The Jeep was running VERY rich, and the guy who rebuilt the engine told me that he couldn't get it to idle without the idle screw all the way in. I put quite a bit of cash into the rebuild and I don't want gas washing down my cylinder walls.
The directions that came with the Weber carburerator kit SAID to screw the idle speed screw in no more than 1 1/2 turns after the screw first makes contact, and to lave the mix screw 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in. I did what the directions supplied by Weber told me to do. It didn't work, so that's why I'm here.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Did you use a new top plate gasket?? In the artilce you will see I had a casting flashing pc that cut my top plate gasket and I had a total carb failure. If you did not put this on right it could cause similar issues.

From your last post on FPR... cannot set this with a guess... in the article it says to set at 3 to 3.5 psi and this is not a guess. So get a 0-15 psi gauge and a brass adapter if needed and set it correctly. I also leave my guage on there it is nice to see the pressure and good for trouble shooting.
I used a genuine Weber kit for the 32/36. I also bought a new power valve. The kit came with a new top plate gasket and a new base gasket. I will check the top plate gasket and make sure it's installed correctly. I wasn't sure while this would be a big issue given that I have run my MC2100 with the top off, but I'm comparing apples to oranges there, so I will check it.

I will get a FP gauge. I was hoping that the FPR might help with my rich condition, especially after Jose told me that my jets were correct for the 258 at my altitude, but given that it won't run right at all WITHOUT the FPR, there is obviously another problem. That said, I've got a gauge on the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
If you did not buy your carb at the importer Weber Carb Direct you should only be asking Jose questions if you buy your rebuild kit and jets from him. I hope you did not ask him for free jets for a ten year old carb you did not buy from that importer??? They need to make a buck too.
I mentioned this in your other thread. It was not until AFTER I talked to Jose that I realized that he did not work for WEBER, but a Weber retailer. I did not expect anything free from him but advice, and then only because I thought he worked for the manufacturer and not a vendor. Even then given the age of my carb I certainly wouldn't expect ANYTHING free. I'll be happy to spend some money on this thing if I can get it running right/ not rich.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
BACK Fire... you might have moved the distributor when you did the teamrush and your work above. When you make carb and ignition and other changes the time needs be checked and redone anyways. Even after you get the carb tweeked in again I would go back and play with the time again.
I will check my timing. I have not touched the distributor since the engine was rebuilt. It ran fine except for the rich condition, but I will check and recheck it again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
So take the top plate off and when replace make sure you go slowly and evenly on all fasteners. There is also a spring clip that goes under the float... the float lowers and pulls the spring/needle seat down to allow fuel flow and if you missed this only high press fuel is going to allow it to run at all.

Those are my guesses
I'll pull the top plate off and recheck the float and the top gasket.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #10 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Well it is not the report that I had hoped to see.

Let me say that I had elected to suggest the richer mix setting so to possibly overcome a suspected air leak and allow the engine to run while you had time to find a cause.

The backfire thru the tailpipe with the baseline settings you had still could indicate an air leak, idle passages clogged or even metering jets(air and fuel) plugged, and a host of choke issues.

I would like to suggest that you do remove the cover and verify that the retain clip on the needle valve is indeed holding the float arm and that the cover gasket is not flipped so as to cover the power valve air aperture shown in the photo. Set one way it will, the correct placement will not.

I think that I read where you looked at the idle jets so in the kit there should be two O rings to attach onto the jet holders make certain that they are in place and that the holders a firmly seated.

It is obvious to you now that more than 3-1/2 turns out on the mix screw will cause a flooding pop at the carb. I suggested that as a point to start from as the leaning adjustment would be inward from there.

I can only assume that the engine builder would have set the initial time prior to returning it over to you. However if you can return the screws to the base line and start it so to verify the initial setting all the much better.
I'll recheck that top cover gasket and also check the float/needle.
I'm also gonna go ahead and get a timing light and check the timing (been borrowing one, but recently moved, so no neighbor with timing light anymore)
One thing I just thought of was the idle jets. One is larger than the other. The Orings supplied with the kit were both the same size, so I had to stretch one out to get it on the larger idle jet. I'm wondering if I've got a good seal on both of those. I kept all the old stuff I replaced, and the original orings didn't look bad, so I might swap those back in and see what happens.

Thanks for the help. Lucky for me I have another Jeep to drive while I get this one right!

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #11 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 09:29 PM
mcmud
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Good. Lube that old O ring and slip it back on and if they are seated it'll seal.

I would soak that top gasket in some motor oil for the time it takes to have a look inside so to plump it back up a bit.

While the idle jets are out give a good blast of cleaner into the aperture inside.

Here's to Hope this gets your's back on the road.
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post #12 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 11:17 PM
Fjguercio
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Idle jets are 65 and 50, run jets are 145s


The run jets for 258 motors are generaly in the 145 to 150 range and these are metric drill diameters. So that looks ok your idle jets look too big and your idle screw, you posted, is screwed all the way down. So time to get some smaller idle jets and when you put numbers should also list what is in primary and secondar side of carb. The primary is used first and when the pedal is past about half way the secondary is used also. This is called a progressive carb. I would get a 35, two 40s , and two 45 and would est that you will settle in in the 40 to 50 range. I would also get one larger run jet, two 50's, because the idle supplies 15% of run circuite and you are making that smaller so you may need larger run jets. If they have 147 run jets get one of them and one 150 run jet. Just a note... on the Weber 34 they ship with a 147.5 run jet but do not sell that one as a single jet for some reason. So they offer 145 and 150 and skip the 147.5 when you go to buy jets.... kinda shame because that seems to be the hot number range for lots of users of 258 even with other carbs too. I will be talking to weber and see if this can be made avail as we learn more and more. I am pretty sure you need to change your jets.

I would also add ground to your head to help your igntioin. Use some copper antiziese on your spark plug threads to help get better grounds. Use dielectric grease on your spark plug connections and inside the boot it will seal them up and the boots will come off better.. Ck your cap and rotar and remove any corrosion with a dremel tool & soft brass brush. I put dielectric grease on the pivot point on top of cap and the tip of rotar to keep some of the oxidation from sparking at bay. Also verify you have a brass terminal cap. If your terminal are aluminum tell us about is and replace it with a brass one. The alumium contacts once oxidize do not work well they build up tooooo much resistance to spark. Look for carbon tracking in the cap too it you have carbon tracks that cap needs to be replaced. TeamRush Brass and the trick above you can open your spark plug gap to .040 to .045" but no more than that. Since you run rich take each plug out and record what it looks like and if any of the look different. If they are black and sooty that carbon is conductive and can keep your spark plug from fire correctly. So after you look and record.. clean each of them off with a wire brush and soft strokes. Then blow off with air or brake cleaner or both. Ck your gap and adj if necessary, apply the copper antiseize on the threads and reinstall. If one looks much worse than others it might have been dropped or is not working right is one of the reasons we look....... ie carbon build up, failed plug wire, loose wire or terminal etc etc..

What spark plugs are you running and what gap??? Do not run platnum or any funky plugs. Use Autolite 985 copper plugs. JeepHammer said they best the best out of box and that is what i use. If you drop a plug do not use, do not pry on the center elecrode when you change gap, do not ground strap on hard surface to close gap.... Treat the plugs gently and use spark plug too or plyer to change the gap. do not pry on center electrode with a lever it will damage plug.

When you look at jets they should be clean... if not clean clean them with carb cleaner and can use thin wire to push thru holes if they are plugged. Can also soak overnight in small glass container or similar if need. When you go look again look for debree from paper towel or similar that might have got sucked into a run jet... This happened to me a day or so after some carb work.... sucked into the primary run jet and would bairly go 15 mph if I romped on it would buck and kick then got gas from secondary and would go. But not the right way to run a engine and could break something plus you get some wild looks. I made it home and almost did not see the pc of towel because it was wet but it was there. Sounds like what you posted too.

Yep.... need gauge to set the FPR. On the fuel...... The bowel vent you mention is this the return line to gas tank???? If so I would not run this for now since you have issue and trying to run the FPR. I run the FPR dead head at the carb. Are you running a dual outlet fuel filter?? If so let us know. You could have sucked up some junk in the gas tank something for us to consider. So if we still have issues... might want to put gas into a container prior to carb and see how much fuel we get delivered sometimes the pick up get pluged and hinders the fuel flow... We are working on a 30yr old cj.

What year CJ do you have... and profile says nuttered so that also means you have 1980's CJ with limited mechanical advance slots on your distributor.. I do not think this is your issue but will not be the most optimized advance curve. I think you are aware of this from your reading of other threads. Some have said no, but we have changed enough of them the nay sayers are starting to catch on and agree. So your system will not be optimized and you will have less advance curve than my 1978 does.

Ck your #1 wire and the fire order its on your intake, the fire order. One wire off could do this too so ck it out.

I would like to see some pics of your motor.. front and both sides. I would also like a closer pic of your distributor and your carb.

Next time you run motor... verifty the choke closes when set and opens once warmed up. and advise of the result.

The time once nutterd is no longer done at higher rpms. It is done at idle and once you put your smaller idle jets in..... I expect your Idel to jump 800 rpms or more. Your initial time will be in the 3-8 range. I would use 5-6 for now.

I would not soak the top plate gasket in oil... just make a mess. I would ck the top plate and carb surfaces for any scratches or damage that might keep it from sealing up right.

You did not explain... how much of the carb did you take apart??? What did you do in detail??
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post #13 of 66 Old 12-20-2009, 11:26 PM
Fjguercio
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Last thought... this is not your issue but if you have been running rich for sometime and the plugs look fouled. Then once you get this running better and not so rich... I would run some seafoam in your carb 1-2 times to clean up the valve train, valves and seats since they will have junk onthem too. Then you will need to clean or ck your plugs again and mabe do a final set of carb and time. The junk can affect your vacuum levels and the operation of the air/ fuel delivery and use.

Also a vacuum gauge to look at your idle conditions and run conditions is a nice tool. I be your idel vacuum is 15" and should be 18-20" hg. When you change your idle jets, retune properly I bet you the number go back to normal.

When I shoped for a vacuum gauge Advance Auto had a nice large face gauge with some adapters for $23 or so. Good price and nice package. Look for golf T, few plastic caps, some adaptes and you will have a nice little kit. Also get a longer hose so you can run manifold vacuum to drivers view. Max the vacuum level when you drive and will max fuel mileage. Esp hwy driving it you keep the vacuum level up will teach you how to drive your ck. Even show your wife. Leave it in there for a wk or so and teaches you quite a bit. There are also inst with the gauge that teach you how to measure and read your vacuum levels.

Fred
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post #14 of 66 Old 12-21-2009, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
wm69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Idle jets are 65 and 50, run jets are 145s


The run jets for 258 motors are generaly in the 145 to 150 range and these are metric drill diameters. So that looks ok your idle jets look too big and your idle screw, you posted, is screwed all the way down. So time to get some smaller idle jets and when you put numbers should also list what is in primary and secondar side of carb. The primary is used first and when the pedal is past about half way the secondary is used also. This is called a progressive carb. I would get a 35, two 40s , and two 45 and would est that you will settle in in the 40 to 50 range. I would also get one larger run jet, two 50's, because the idle supplies 15% of run circuite and you are making that smaller so you may need larger run jets. If they have 147 run jets get one of them and one 150 run jet. Just a note... on the Weber 34 they ship with a 147.5 run jet but do not sell that one as a single jet for some reason. So they offer 145 and 150 and skip the 147.5 when you go to buy jets.... kinda shame because that seems to be the hot number range for lots of users of 258 even with other carbs too. I will be talking to weber and see if this can be made avail as we learn more and more. I am pretty sure you need to change your jets.
I was sure that the idle jets were too large, but Jose said they were what shipped in the 32/36 and they SHOULD be correct. He said to add a FPR and if still rich to get smaller jets. That's where I was going but can't get the thing to run well enough to tell anything right now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
I would also add ground to your head to help your igntioin. Use some copper antiziese on your spark plug threads to help get better grounds. Use dielectric grease on your spark plug connections and inside the boot it will seal them up and the boots will come off better.. Ck your cap and rotar and remove any corrosion with a dremel tool & soft brass brush. I put dielectric grease on the pivot point on top of cap and the tip of rotar to keep some of the oxidation from sparking at bay. Also verify you have a brass terminal cap. If your terminal are aluminum tell us about is and replace it with a brass one. The alumium contacts once oxidize do not work well they build up tooooo much resistance to spark. Look for carbon tracking in the cap too it you have carbon tracks that cap needs to be replaced. TeamRush Brass and the trick above you can open your spark plug gap to .040 to .045" but no more than that. Since you run rich take each plug out and record what it looks like and if any of the look different. If they are black and sooty that carbon is conductive and can keep your spark plug from fire correctly. So after you look and record.. clean each of them off with a wire brush and soft strokes. Then blow off with air or brake cleaner or both. Ck your gap and adj if necessary, apply the copper antiseize on the threads and reinstall. If one looks much worse than others it might have been dropped or is not working right is one of the reasons we look....... ie carbon build up, failed plug wire, loose wire or terminal etc etc..
I just put autolite 985 plugs in a couple of weeks ago, gapped to .045. The Jeep started missing a little and I pulled the plugs and they were gunked up, so I replaced them, but when I saw them I knew I needed to get to work on the carb and stop saying "I'll get to that one of these days". This Jeep has been my hunting rig and I've only logged about 1500 miles since the engine rebuild (and about 25% of that was driving the Jeep to its new home). Team rush stuff is exactly as Jeephammer posted it. I was running a Jacobs on this Jeep but ran into a hard starting problem and miraculously fixed itself when I unhooked it and hooked the stock ignition back up, so having already teamrush'd the other Jeep, I opted to drop the Jacobs and teamrush this Jeep as well (fewer extra parts to keep on hand)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
When you look at jets they should be clean... if not clean clean them with carb cleaner and can use thin wire to push thru holes if they are plugged. Can also soak overnight in small glass container or similar if need. When you go look again look for debree from paper towel or similar that might have got sucked into a run jet... This happened to me a day or so after some carb work.... sucked into the primary run jet and would bairly go 15 mph if I romped on it would buck and kick then got gas from secondary and would go. But not the right way to run a engine and could break something plus you get some wild looks. I made it home and almost did not see the pc of towel because it was wet but it was there. Sounds like what you posted too.
Jets looked fine when I took them out. I will take them out again and check them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post

Yep.... need gauge to set the FPR. On the fuel...... The bowel vent you mention is this the return line to gas tank???? If so I would not run this for now since you have issue and trying to run the FPR. I run the FPR dead head at the carb. Are you running a dual outlet fuel filter?? If so let us know. You could have sucked up some junk in the gas tank something for us to consider. So if we still have issues... might want to put gas into a container prior to carb and see how much fuel we get delivered sometimes the pick up get pluged and hinders the fuel flow... We are working on a 30yr old cj.
Just ordered a gauge to add to the FPR. I AM running the stock dual outlet fuel filter. I noticed some people had that work fine for them, others didn't. Figured I would try it and see. The bowl vent goes to charcoal canister. Return line to tank is hooked up to the 2nd outlet on the fuel filter. I wondered if the dual outlet filter along with the FPR might not allow enough fuel to make it to the carb, so yesterday I took the FPR off and no change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
What year CJ do you have... and profile says nuttered so that also means you have 1980's CJ with limited mechanical advance slots on your distributor.. I do not think this is your issue but will not be the most optimized advance curve. I think you are aware of this from your reading of other threads. Some have said no, but we have changed enough of them the nay sayers are starting to catch on and agree. So your system will not be optimized and you will have less advance curve than my 1978 does.

The time once nutterd is no longer done at higher rpms. It is done at idle and once you put your smaller idle jets in..... I expect your Idel to jump 800 rpms or more. Your initial time will be in the 3-8 range. I would use 5-6 for now.
Jeep is an 85. Top one in my sig line. Have teamrush now instead of Jacobs, but nothing else has changed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
You did not explain... how much of the carb did you take apart??? What did you do in detail??
I took cover off, took jets out, soaked the whole thing in cleaner for a couple of days. Took it out, scrubbed it down/ got all the gunk off/out. Put parts in rebuild kit wherever they went. To be honest, when I saw the few items in the rebuild kit I wondered if it was even worthwhile. Orings for jets, few metal washers here and there, accel pump diaphram, needle and needle seat, new gasket for choke, new power valve (ordered seperate from the kit under suggestion from Jose), reassembled and installed. kit was 92-3237-05. As I said, wasn't much in the kit.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #15 of 66 Old 12-21-2009, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
The time once nutterd is no longer done at higher rpms. It is done at idle and once you put your smaller idle jets in..... I expect your Idel to jump 800 rpms or more. Your initial time will be in the 3-8 range. I would use 5-6 for now.
I know to disconnect the vacuum advance on the timing, but check timing at idle?

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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