Warn winch; short in controler? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-11-2020, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
Smokey56
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Warn winch; short in controler?

Hello to all;
I got a used Warn 9.5TI winch, "..works perfectly; only used twice". Riiight. No paperwork.

I attached the negative battery lead, and used a multi-meter between the positive lead and the battery. Shows 0.00, which does not suggest a short.

But when I plugged in the remote control it shows full voltage going to the winch, without touching the switch. It shouldn't do that, right? Doesn't this indicate a short somewhere? Or is this coming from the temperature light on the switch?

I'm no electrician, but it shouldn't be sending power to the winch until the switch is activated, right?? I'll work on getting the switch apart and look for bare or broken wires. It's in a rubber housing, and is uncooperative.

Update / edit: got the switch apart and see nothing wrong. I have no wiring diagram. Attached to the switched are 3 read wires, (2 of which are jumped together) and one black. I get continuity between the black and red, as soon as the harness is plugged in. Without touching the switch. All opinions welcome.

Update #2. Went to do a parasitic draw test, and didn't get past the box end wrench test. The solenoid's fried. I've heard about winches going through water, and powering on w/ out being switched. Stays on 'til something burns, I hear. And one can see the jimmy rigged "low profile" solenoid mounting.

Gonna buy a solenoid, and look up how to test the rest.


Any info will be appreciated.
Many thanks;
Alan

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Last edited by Smokey56; 05-11-2020 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Update and clarify and pics
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-12-2020, 10:46 AM
Supraquick
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Looks like the power wire got plenty hot too. Swap the busted solenoid and let us know. My bet is that you will be OK and the old solenoid just got stuck or overloaded.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-17-2020, 12:35 AM
Cutlass327
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Make it easier, look up warn contactor on eBay. I got mine from Gigglepin. It replaces the 4 solenoids with a contactor, less connections to corrode.

FYI. This diagram, they switched the B+ and A terminals.
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Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #4 of 6 Old 05-22-2020, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
Smokey56
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Many thanks Cutlass327.
Wow, those contactor packs sure are neat and tidy. Reasonably priced, too.
Too bad for me I'd already ordered old style solenoids. Also figured out I needed about $400 worth of other stuff; both drum supports, solenoid tray and cover, etc. Looks like somebody converted it to a hidden mount using a band saw. Crudely, in this case.
Anyone have a wiring diagram for the 4 solenoids?? Nothing I can find is specific. The small terminals on the new ones are labeled I and S; no markings on the old ones.
All opinions welcome.
Many thanks;
Alan
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-23-2020, 09:58 PM
CSP
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Just replicate the wiring of the existing solenoids. You have the map sitting right there next to your new ones.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-24-2020, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
Smokey56
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Done!

Thanks to all.
The old ones weren't labeled at all, so I couldn't tell what went where.
It turns out, it didn't matter! I found this out after I sweated the installation, and held my breath when I hooked it up to power.
Again, if I ever open this up, I'll replace with a coil pack. So neat and simple. Same price as the solenoids.
Bench tested perfectly last night; can't wait to mount it on the front of my '56 Willys CJ-5.
Appreciated, Alan
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