Vibration after 2.5Ē Lift - Need Advice on Options - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
PottsyCJ5
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I called them a little bit ago and the guy I spoke to was having a hard time finding the answer. He took my info and said he would follow up so hoping he does. Itís hard enough finding shims for 1&3/4Ē leafs without going through trial and error. I might have to just measure them and try and figure it out on my own.

I think I might take it for a spin. I replaced my thermostat housing and some other stuff and am getting ready to burp the system and make sure some of stuff is in order. If everything checks out might take a putt putt around my hood. Hoping my vibe issues are resolved so I know I went down the right track.


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post #62 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 11:59 AM
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Assuming the part they have at the manufacturer is the same part that they sent you, if you can get them to measure the thickness at both ends with a pair of dial calipers and also the length, you could do the calculation (or we could help you).

Others can tell you where to find the correct width shims, but you can also scribe a couple of lines and use a grinder or belt sander (one of my favorite tools) to grind some material off both edges and make them the correct width. As others have said, just make sure they are made of steel and not aluminum.
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post #63 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 12:03 PM
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Itís hard to tell in your picture, but it looks like you need to use a larger socket. The cap on the U joint that the socket sits on has a higher circular ring that is machined and that is what you want the socket to sit on. A smaller socket might not span the lower unmachined circular area, and then it will not be true. You want the largest socket that will fit on that machined ring (outer ring of the cap). Look at the red ring in my attached picture, this is the machined area of the cap that the socket should sit on if you are going to get a true reading.

Im not sure if this will change your reading, however; it is something you should understand, and make the appropriate adjustments as you work your way through this problem.
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post #64 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 12:14 PM
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A close up picture of your U joint, clearly shows the machined ring that the socket needs to rest on.

Was the socket you used larger than the lower unmachined circle? It doesnít look like it to me, but the picture is a little dark, so I could be wrong on this...just something I noticed.
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post #65 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Axle. It is a pretty small socket but the little lip the holds the ujoint end in place is in the way and I canít get any bigger in there and still have it sit flush. Here is a couple better shots. I think I understood what you guys meant and got it right. But thanks for making sure.

This shows the lip in my way:



This shows how I held the socket:

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post #66 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 01:06 PM
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Looks good!

What style rear shackles do you have? Have you considered replacing them with longer shackles to get a degree or two of angle back?
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post #67 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 02:13 PM
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Honestly, me being me, I'd probably have been driving it like that by now. Definitely while waiting on the shims to come in. I drove the original driveshaft for months with the yokes almost binding (had to use a carbide burr and die grinder to clearance a little even). I put 1" square tube between frame and skid to drop the transfer a little to give more clearance. Ran all winter like that, probably half a year. Vibration? Yep. Knew I was replacing it anyway as soon as I got to the pull-a-part for a XJ front driveshaft and then have it shortened. I will say, save time and money and buy one new. By the time they rebuilt the joints, had to replace the center piece, I had over $300 in a JY piece. It doesn't even have that nice boot and is smaller diameter tube.
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post #68 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Vibration after 2.5Ē Lift - Need Advice on Options

I have stock style shackles, AxleHammer. Iíd prefer not to mess with them but good to know thatís an option.

Am I good with how tight I made the bolts and ujoints? Thatís the one thing Iím still uneasy about. Seems like I should crank down on those but I went for about 14 lbs of torque.

So hereís where Iím at. I spoke with customer service at Tom Woods and they said for where I am at being just 2 degrees of shim off, if I am not having any issues I might not need to do anything. He said drive it and if itís smooth he would probably leave it alone and I shouldnít even worry about it.

So I took it for a test drive and YEAH BABY. This thing is butter smooth even as it sits right now. I donít think even before the new lift with the old driveshaft it was ever this smooth. Feels incredible compared to what it felt like with the old shaft and the lift. You can just feel the power being delivered more effortlessly through the drivetrain.

I am still probably going to change out my shims (because Iím anal and it will bother me knowing itís not perfect), and Tom woods customers service said they will make me whatever size shim I need if I canít find the right size for my leafs. Awesome company and super stoked Iím running one of their shafts now.

So Iím hoping I hear back on what size shims I currently have, but if I donít Iím gonna try and calculate it by measuring them and then hunt down a 2 degree larger size and swap them out at some point in the near future. For today, itís 60 and sunny and Iím gonna go get some fresh gas and run it down the road a bit.

Big whoppin thanks to all you fellas in this thread that helped me out. Iím super pumped (if you canít tell) and very thankful for the advice and walkthroughs that got me here. Seriously, thank yíall.


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post #69 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 03:19 PM
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14 is at the bottom of spec, I torqued mine to 17, the top end of spec. They haven't flown out yet. Congrats on completing this!
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post #70 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 03:38 PM
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If your not feeling any vibrations after running it a bit...don’t change a thing, I don’t think it’s worth trying. Just make sure you don’t forget to grease all three ujoints.

Drive line problems can be a pain, congrats on your success.
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post #71 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
From the photo, it looks like your measurements are probably close. You diff is too low, and needs to rotate up to get your angles close. Thatís consistent with your 18 / 13 degree measurements. The good news is that when you do that, your double Cardin angle will improve. My guess is that your diff needs to rotate up another 2 degrees. But, thatís just an educated guess.
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post #72 of 86 Old 03-26-2020, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BrutusBlue View Post
If your not feeling any vibrations after running it a bit...donít change a thing, I donít think itís worth trying. Just make sure you donít forget to grease all three ujoints.

Drive line problems can be a pain, congrats on your success.
An important grease point on a double cardan is the H yoke centering ball. Those normally require a needle nose grease gun.
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post #73 of 86 Old 03-27-2020, 05:11 AM
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An important grease point on a double cardan is the H yoke centering ball. Those normally require a needle nose grease gun.
Yes indeed, thanks for pointing that out. A smaller grease gun with a needle nozzle tip works great and is easier to hold in place.
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post #74 of 86 Old 03-27-2020, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking dang Nashville nailed it as soon as the calculator spit those numbers out. Ha. Well
Played good sir.


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post #75 of 86 Old 03-27-2020, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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An important grease point on a double cardan is the H yoke centering ball. Those normally require a needle nose grease gun.

Good call. If Tom Woods didnít point that out in their instructions I would have missed that spot, itís not easy to see. They also provided a grease gun needle tip for accessing it.

They also called for GL#1 grease specifically for that joint. I think the others can take GL#2.

It comes all greased up but itís spitting out a good bit of grease initially. Iíll hit it again after a few miles.


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