Vapor Canister - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 07-01-2019, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
CJ7Guy1
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Vapor Canister

Or, How I Keep the Buggy Whip Maker In Business....

Set out to fix / replace a thousand miles of vacuum tubing and you're immediately reminded of the old adage - No good deed goes unpunished.

Or, in Jeep slang - No vacuum hose replacement without serious and expensive broken things that are hard as hell to find (doesn't roll off the tongue but, ya' get it...).

Here we go - 1984 CJ-7, I6 (258 / 4.2L), stock, California emissions Vapor Canister:


A couple people found this:
https://store.delorean.com/p-6675-carbon-canister.aspx


It's about $65 - full canister. I've sent them a quick email asking to make sure this is a direct replacement. Waiting - will update.

This is why I'm looking:


This seems like the perfect time to remind people that replacing vacuum tubing can get tricky when removing the old from the 30(plus)-year-old plastic connector - and expansive.

Someone posted this as the correct Cap (ACDelco 214-552 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve).


Lists it for about $30.

Anybody have any luck with swapping out this new Purge Cap Valve thingy with this new one?

Thanks,
Patrick

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post #2 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 07:00 AM
keith460
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Have you tried repairing the nipple on the cap?

I accidentally broke off the same one a couple of years ago while working on the clutch rod assembly which caused a vacuum leak. It cracked open at the base of the nipple. I went to an Ace hardware store and purchased a small brass tube that I inserted into the nipple after drilling it out some so it would slide in beyond the crack. Then we used a solder iron to melt the plastic around the crack to seal it shut. Cut off the extra tubing and put the vacuum line back on.
Its very solid and more rigid than before and cost a few dollars to fix.


If the cap is cracked, use a good super glue to seal it shut and then use a soldering iron to melt and fuse the plastic around the crack. Sorta like welding plastic and can be very effective in repairs. Used this method on more plastic parts than I can count and it usually works.
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post #3 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 07:58 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I can confirm the Delorean canister is a direct replacement for the CJ canister. I doubt the people at Delorean will know that.

IIRC the nipple configuration is a little different, but they are all labeled, so that's easy enough to figure out.

att


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post #4 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 08:17 AM
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A related question......is there a source for the green tube running back to the tank?

JS
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post #5 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 09:26 AM
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I also have a related question - do you know the diameter of the canister? Would you mind measuring next time you're in there?

I bought a GM one that is suppose to be a direct replacement but its gigantic. Thanks!
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post #6 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 11:39 AM
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16 3/4 at bottom narrows to 15 1/2 at top. Mine is a 1980 model CJ5
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post #7 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STJP View Post
A related question......is there a source for the green tube running back to the tank?

JS
How about a nice yellow?
https://www.mcmaster.com/5552k27
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I call it a distributor, not a dizzy.
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post #8 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
CJ7Guy1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Have you tried repairing the nipple on the cap?

I accidentally broke off the same one a couple of years ago while working on the clutch rod assembly which caused a vacuum leak. It cracked open at the base of the nipple. I went to an Ace hardware store and purchased a small brass tube that I inserted into the nipple after drilling it out some so it would slide in beyond the crack. Then we used a solder iron to melt the plastic around the crack to seal it shut. Cut off the extra tubing and put the vacuum line back on.
Its very solid and more rigid than before and cost a few dollars to fix.


If the cap is cracked, use a good super glue to seal it shut and then use a soldering iron to melt and fuse the plastic around the crack. Sorta like welding plastic and can be very effective in repairs. Used this method on more plastic parts than I can count and it usually works.
Pain in the ***...

Mine didn't break all the way off so, using your idea, I'll JB Weld (auto plastic flavor). Will probably 'seal' it through meaning, once it's cured, drill through newly sealed connector.

If that fails, I'll do exactly what you suggested.
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post #9 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STJP View Post
A related question......is there a source for the green tube running back to the tank?

JS
RIGHT - Me too!

I've tried searching for 'hard plastic tubing' and variations on that team - mostly, house vacuum or shop-vac parts.

BUT, with the new Copper Nickel tubing out there, I'm seriously considering replacing everything with that. The reviews for using it in brake or fuel line are impressive so for basic vacuum crap, should be a no brainier.
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post #10 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994ranger View Post
I also have a related question - do you know the diameter of the canister? Would you mind measuring next time you're in there?

I bought a GM one that is suppose to be a direct replacement but its gigantic. Thanks!
Not sure of the other's guys measurements but mine is close to 4-7/8" diameter (across the top). So, that makes it (2 Pi r and all that...) around 15.3" circumference - right?

I was trying to assemble a MPI kit (Hesco stuff) and have a later year canister - can't remember what year but it looks exactly the same - used.

I might just punt off the repair and just replace it with the 'new' one. I'll fix the old one and put it aside so when my kids clean out my garage of all things Jeep, it will give them one more reason to posthumously call me a hoarder.

Blah, blah, blah....
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post #11 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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So, yes, 100% wrong on swapping out the 'new' one for the old (original) one.


Clearly wrong.

JB Weld, here I come...
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post #12 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 02:44 PM
keith460
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The green tubing can be found @ McMaster-Carr.com and has been asked before on where to get a few years back.
Attached Thumbnails
Green Tubing.jpg  

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post #13 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 03:48 PM
jlkeener
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my measurements were the circumference at the bottom and top of my 0em canister
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post #14 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7Guy1 View Post
So, yes, 100% wrong on swapping out the 'new' one for the old (original) one.

Clearly wrong.

JB Weld, here I come...
That mopar canister you pictured will fit easily. Simple adaptation. Or were you just talking about the cap?

http://http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106051

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post #15 of 22 Old 07-02-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whollsee View Post
That mopar canister you pictured will fit easily. Simple adaptation. Or were you just talking about the cap?

http://http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106051
No, I'll go simple adaptation - that way, I can use it and fix the original one.

I took a peek at the link you included - that guy submitted a hell of a write up.

Thanks for linking that!

Patrick
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