Valve Cover is removed... one broken bolt and how to clean... - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
GA1984Cj7
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Valve Cover is removed... one broken bolt and how to clean...

Hi,
(My jeep has not been driven in years) I decided to remove the original plastic valve cover and I ordered the polished aluminum cover 4.2. I broke the last bolt on the passenger-side while removing the bolts. I am seeking suggestions on removing the rest of it out of the block.

As you can see in the photos, I see I might have a bigger issue. All the oil is burnt. What is the best way to clean this? Before I removed the valve cover I had started the jeep several time for a few minutes. I didn't really see any fresh oil just all the burnt oil. Do you think my oil pump is bad?

Lastly, the new cover came with a thick cork gasket, but I ordered the fel-pro gasket which I decided to install instead of the cork.
q1) Do I use RTV on the fel-pro gasket or leave alone?
q2) Where do the two blue rubber washers go that came with the fel-pro gasket?
q3) I am going to order all new valve cover bolts , suggestions on which one to order?

Thank you for your help or suggestions!

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post #2 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 04:28 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA1984Cj7 View Post
Hi,
(My jeep has not been driven in years) I decided to remove the original plastic valve cover and I ordered the polished aluminum cover 4.2. I broke the last bolt on the passenger-side while removing the bolts. I am seeking suggestions on removing the rest of it out of the block.

As you can see in the photos, I see I might have a bigger issue. All the oil is burnt. What is the best way to clean this? Before I removed the valve cover I had started the jeep several time for a few minutes. I didn't really see any fresh oil just all the burnt oil. Do you think my oil pump is bad?

Lastly, the new cover came with a thick cork gasket, but I ordered the fel-pro gasket which I decided to install instead of the cork.
q1) Do I use RTV on the fel-pro gasket or leave alone?
q2) Where do the two blue rubber washers go that came with the fel-pro gasket?
q3) I am going to order all new valve cover bolts , suggestions on which one to order?

Thank you for your help or suggestions!
I had an engine with a broken bolt and the n ended up breaking an extractor in the broken bolt. Then tried to drill the extractor and the extractor laughed at drill bits. So you have to take your time.
I'm assuming theres not enough of the bolt to grab with a pair of small vise grips . Does the bolt stick out above the hole ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #3 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 06:35 PM
DV915
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A reverse cut drill bit might spin it out or make a hole to use an Easy-Out extractor.

You could try a quart of transmission fluid to run though the engine. Itís highly detergent and might free some oil passages.

I would not use RTV on the gaskets but instead Permetex #2 or try leaving it dry.

Those o rings might be for a different style valve covers with center hold down bolts?
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 06:57 PM
JoonHoss
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On my '83, I had to drill/ bottom tap the holes anyways. The one in the very back (closest to firewall, was already through to the water jacket, so I ended up using a stud/ sealer on that one.

Even if you want to use an easy-out, you'll need to drill it first. Really good, really sharp drill bits are your friend. I always try drilling first. You can always re-tap the next size up If needed.

My head looked very similar. I scraped and vac'd as much crap out as I could. Then, when valve cover was finally sealed (took a few attempts) I ran some seafoam through the engine then did an oil change.

Hoss

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 07:26 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

wow that looks like a quaker state motor. the oil had a bad reputation in the 70's and early 80's for sludge. to get the screw out i would drill with a left hand drill bit. sometimes while drilling with one it will unscrew. as for a easy out i like and use almost daily in aviation are the irwin hex screw extractors. the stub length and a 1/2 body make easy to get the screw out. as for all the sludge you can scrape what you can and vacuum up. before every oil change i add some marvel mystery oil in the engine oil for a few miles then change it. after a few times you will notice its getting cleaner. i dont like to get to much of the crap loose at once.

oldschool
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-17-2020, 07:58 PM
popascj7
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Forget the RTV, not made for this application.
I agree with all the other options for removing the broken bolt.
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-18-2020, 01:12 AM
agear
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Yeah you dont have to use rpm for the valve cover -just get it no residue clean . You may want to use some high tack or something to keep the gasket in good position

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-18-2020, 08:45 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI with that much build up I'd be afraid to get it to clean.. getting it to clean can lossen up some tolerances and it well start making noise.. then you'd be in store for a head job.
good luck
tim
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-18-2020, 08:56 AM
gutthans
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IF you can get to the underside of the bolt (should be an open hole) you can start a 1/4 x 20 bolt and turn it in until it contacts the original bolt. Continuing to turn it MAY cause the broken one to turn out.

IF that doesn't spin it out, then a 1/32 to 1/8 Cobalt bit will give you a pilot hole in the broken bolt to place an Easy-Out or left-twist drill bit into...

If you run cleaner or try to de-sludge the valley, you may get more problems than you already have.
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-18-2020, 09:53 AM
80cj
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Try to center punch the broken bolt before trying to drill. Is that a 1/4" bolt?
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-19-2020, 07:15 PM
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Went through this two years ago with an exhaust bolt.. much nastier buildup around that thing I imagine than a valve cover bolt.. as a pilot and AP mechanic.. I knew about Aerokroil.. expensive but best thing out there for penetrating things like the crud around your bolt/rusted bolts, nuts. Etc.. I sprayed the broken stud with that and let it sit over night and sprayed it again. Left it to soak for about three days spraying it every afternoon lightly.. then got a cheap left hand drill set from harbor freight and prayed a bit.. lol I center punched the bolt with a small punch and then started with a small left hand bit and got a bit of a hole started. Then went with a slightly larger bit and as soon as it grabbed it started backing out the broken stud. As SOON as it started out, I kept it at very low rpm to finish removing the stud. At least our far enough that I got vice grips on it and finished getting it out.. didn’t have to resize or retap the hole and was soooooooo happy. I figured if it didn’t come out from the left hand drill bit, at least it’d drill the hole without turning it further in as it would’ve with a right had drill bit.. Then, if need be, I could’ve used an easy out in the now drilled hole.. I really think the Aerokroil was the deciding factor there but was very happy at how it worked out.. You can Goggle Aerokroil and their site will pop up.. Several have said a colbalt drill bit is what would make a hole in that broken stud and they’re right but at like $7 for the whole drill bit set from harbor freight, I didn’t really care if I went through the whole set getting that one bolt out.. Hope this helps
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-19-2020, 07:17 PM
wheels082
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That is definitely an engine that was was neglected. This is the best engine flush I have used, I would try running some in it. Maybe even more than once.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-...lsh/?zo=226468
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-19-2020, 07:53 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI Amsoil is a good product but I can't stress it enough to be aware that when you clean a motor that dirty you can open up a lot more problems.. it well loosen up tolorances and cause the motor to start making lifter noise as well as oil pressure problems.
good luck
tim
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-19-2020, 11:46 PM
80cj
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Several years ago a friend bought a used Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 engine. The engine was all sludged up like the Op's. He removed as much of the sludge as he could from under the valve cover then filled the crank case with Chevron Delo 400. He changed filters and oil at100, 200 then 400 mile intervals. He remarked that he could notice the engine getting quieter and the power and gas mileage improving.
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-20-2020, 12:48 AM
jpcallan
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More difficult than suggested

I learned bitter lessons about removing broken studs from a 1980 Audi 4000S 5-cylinder engine, my first new car. The bottom stud of the #5 exhaust port (rearmost) would routinely shear off about every 30k miles and allow the exhaust manifold to warp. I did the broken stud extraction thing over and over, the first couple of times were ugly until my Snap-On man put me on to a small set of extractors with left-hand twist cobalt drill bits (see links below). He also had some wise advice. I think successful broken bolt/stud removal is more difficult than the other contributors suggest. Successful means to not drill off into the surrounding head metal and not cracking the head.

Do heed the advice given about soaking the broken bolt in Kano Lab's Aerokroil or some other high-end penetrating oil.

The photo looks like there is some sort of steel insert installed into the aluminum parent metal block, is that correct? It also appears the bolt is broken of below the plane of the head; correct?

Could you post a photo of a head bolt hole where the valve cover bolt was easily removed?


Let me pose a few questions to you:

1. What size is the broken bolt, and is it NC, NF thread, or metric?

2. How much of the bolt is extending into the head?

3. Did the valve cover bolt break because it was over-torqued when the cover was originally installed and sheared with almost no effort? Or was it all but impossible to remove and too much torque twisted it off?

4. Did you remove the bolt with an impact wrench?

5. How much of the bolt is extending into the head?


If the break's surface is smooth, you got lucky (the Audi 4000 was never lucky). It should be possible to use a center punch to place a dimple in the dead center of the bolt then begin drilling perfectly square to the head with a fine drill bit. The key it to make the hole in the dead center and drill exactly along the axis of the broken bolt.

If the break's surface is rough like a little mountain range, (like the Audi 4000's almost always was), you will need a hardened drill guide to steer the bit. Make up a piece of plywood to bolt to the top of the engine using the two adjacent valve cover bolt holes. Whack the wood with a hammer just over the broken bolt hole to make a transfer impression to indicate exactly where to bore a perfectly square hole to mount the drill guide. Ideally, use a drill guide that will just fit into the bolt hole opening where the bolt is broken off below the surface.

The goal is to drill, dead center, deep into the center of the broken bolt with the small pilot drill and drill guide. Using progressively larger left-hand twist drill bits, keep drilling to remove more and more metal from the broken. What I learned from Mr. Snap-On is I rarely needed to use the extractor as the left-hand bit (and friction) would usually grab as the hole in the bits made heated up the steel; the broken bolt would suddenly just run itself out.

I hope to hear from you.


10 pc Left-Hand Extractor Set, Snap-On P/N EXDL10
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Comb...tor-Set/EXDL10
-or
the Hanson labeled version of the same tool set
https://www.amazon.com/Hanson-HAN111.../dp/B00C7JWS3Y

Snap-On Drill Guide 1/8" drill bit size, 5/16" outside diameter
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Soli...e-Point)/E1021

Snap-On Drill Guide 1/8" drill bit size, 3/8" outside diameter
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Soli...e-Point)/E1221
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