Valve cover gasket for 1986 258 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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Valve cover gasket for 1986 258

I haven't taken the cover off yet, but it's an 86 with 258. I assume i have Aluminum factory valve cover ....its metal and a magnet does not stick. Anyone have the correct gasket number and experience with it on a stock engine???

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post #2 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 07:38 PM
Axhammer
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My 1986 CJ-7 258 came with a plastic valve cover from the factory. The gasket is the same whether you have an aftermarket or OEM valve cover. Clean the valve cover and cylinder head thoroughly. Glue the gasket to the valve cover with contact cement. Put some permatex Ultra black Sealant on the gasket and the cylinder head. Set the valve cover in place and snug all attachment hardware, you should see sealant pushing out as you snug the hardware. Let it cure overnight. Final torque all attachment hardware after it has cured, and you’re good to go.

felpro # VS 50244 C is the PN for the cork gasket

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 08:28 PM
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Look up the torque settings for those bolts. The FSM says 28 INCH lbs. Imagine a 12" bar and that is just about 2lbs of force on the end.

When you have it off you need to inspect the mating surface of the cover. You will usually find raised areas around bolts where the PO has used more than that. You need to carefully tap those down flush with the cover, I suggest resting the edge on the side of a bench and using a hammer and drift (such as a socket on a bar) to gently tap them back into place. Then you can check along each edge with the side of a ruler to make sure they are absolutely flat.

The principle of any gasket is that it alone can seal this gap but only if you have two flat edges and proper torque control. The gasket material and its shore hardness is chosen to match the joint and the amount of torque applied to the fasteners, hence gaskets in this location are soft. You can overcompress such material and get it to slump so torque control is important not just for stopping the cover deforming but to get the best performance out of the soft gaskets.

I have just fixed my 1984, which has been leaking for years and pooling oil next to the inlet manifold. In 1986 AMC were struggling with that gasket, I attach an extract from Popular Mechanics back in the day. Whilst you have an improved cover, you may want to try forming a DIY version of the "pre-cured silicone paste gasket" mentioned therein.

I would suggest getting a quality gasket for the "late model" cover such as Felpro and then putting RTV silicone black or Permatex as Axhammer suggests but I would suggest on both sides. Just a smear, you do not want very much on there. Pop it on, finger tightish, if everything is straight the RTV should fill up all the gaps without compressing the gasket. Leave it to cure overnight, then torque carefully to 28 inch pounds. You should now have a properly compressed gasket and no gaps between it and the surfaces.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 08:31 PM
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Here it is
Attached Thumbnails
write up 40 popular mechanics 1986.jpg  

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 09:03 PM
TerryHowe
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I don't know if the '86 uses the same plastic cover as the early 80s, but that early 80s just had a couple nuts on some rocker arm bridges. It was real hard to get it to seal up and the Clifford valve cover was a big improvement to keep the oil in. I wouldn't be afraid to overtorque a bit if you have minor leaks, 28 in/lbs is not very tight! Way over torquing is going to make things worse probably.

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-02-2019, 12:08 PM
John Strenk
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If he has an aluminum cover on an 86, would that be a 4.0 then?

What a pain it would be to locate an 86 valve cover gasket if you are looking at the 4.2.

A picture of the valve cover or count the number of bolts on the valve cover. If it is a 4.0 then I would probably look up a 87 Wrangler valve cover gasket.


Would an aluminum valve cover bend much if over tightened or just break off around the bolt hole.


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post #7 of 12 Old 12-02-2019, 12:15 PM
Matt1981CJ7
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I tried all the available gaskets for my 258 with marginal success.. Finally, I just used a tube of The Right Stuff Gasket Maker with nothing else. That did the trick for me.

Matt


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post #8 of 12 Old 12-02-2019, 02:35 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello

I used the mahle brand valve cover gasket because very stiff and lays well. it is actually 2 pieces of little thinner cork gaskets with a thin metal piece in between them. the metal helps keep it shape. this way i didnt have to glue to the cover or use rtv. i torque mine a little tighter to 40 in.lb. the only thing i had to to on my clifford valve cover was file little tabs at the ends. they were there i believe to help locate the cover on the head but unfortunatelyit wanted to fold the gasket some and not seal well there.

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post #9 of 12 Old 12-02-2019, 03:09 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyDive View Post
I haven't taken the cover off yet, but it's an 86 with 258. I assume i have Aluminum factory valve cover ....its metal and a magnet does not stick. Anyone have the correct gasket number and experience with it on a stock engine???

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I just did mine the other day. The valve cover gasket is always available near me at a local parts store everytime I need one. They make 2 that I'm aware of a just cork one and one called cork-lam which is like cork coated in what looks like dry tar. Either seal will work. Do you have a pic of the valve cover it could be aftermarket. As john brought up , you need to be careful tightening these down the aluminum will crack and seep. The aluminum on my aftermarket valve cover is hard and thick. I didnt think it would dent in when you tighten it down. Is it too brittle to hit with a hammer ? In the past I always used a gasket and rtv. Until the last few years I thought I'd try putting it on dry like ssf ome have said they do. And lo and behold it didnt leak. I still get it so no residue comes off on a paper towel wet with brake cleaner. It takes a little bit longer but helps. The reason I did this past week is because the gasket blew out in the cold weather I guess, from where it wasn't aligned properly. So you definitely want it so no more than necessary is over the edge. You can use cement to hold in place if necessary.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-03-2019, 05:45 AM
keith460
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The Fel-pro PermaDry valve cover gasket #VS50244R is a very good one to use. It's the one I use now to replace the previous cork versions which always had a tendency to dry out and start leaking in a year or two, especially around the exhaust manifold area where the cylinder head gets very hot. Cast iron holds a lot of heat. The Fel-Pro gasket is made of molded silicone.
The Fel-Pro gasket can be used on either the factory plastic valve cover or aftermarket aluminum valve covers. And I don't recommend using ANY rtv sealant or other means to seal it. You can use a gasket adhesive to make it stick to the valve cover so it doesn't slide out during installation, but that is about it. It's the best gasket and install method I've used and has been leak free for a couple of years now. I believe the torque value for the bolts change from factory 28in.lbs to 55in.lbs. when using the Fel-Pro gasket.


They can be found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs50244r



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post #11 of 12 Old 12-03-2019, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
scottyDive
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Looks like I should pull the cover and make sure what I have....but it sure sounds like metal when I tap on it.

Keith ....that part you listed....do you know if it fits the stock aluminum cover too?

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post #12 of 12 Old 12-03-2019, 11:53 AM
keith460
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There wasn't any stock aluminum cover for the I6 engine in 1984. The 4 cylinder yes, but not the 6, it was black plastic. The plastic cover was used up until about 1987 or 88 and then changed to aluminum when the Jeep YJ got the new 4.0 engine.
But if you have an aftermarket aluminum cover for the 4.2L engine, then the gasket will fit that also.

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