Valve Cover Broken Cylinder Head Bolts Help - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 07-02-2020, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
c82cj
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Valve Cover Broken Cylinder Head Bolts Help

I was attempting to remove my valve cover today for the aluminum upgrade and when removing the bolts found that one was broken and another was stuck and I accidentally broke it. These were the ones that slightly held on the plastic valve cover.

I have no clue how long they actually are and can't see the broken bolt inside the hole. As you can see in the pic one has been broken for a long time and probably the main source of my leaks since it is completely covered in oil. almost forgot this is a 1982 CJ-7 with a 258 if that helps

I watched a few videos on removing broken bolts and it seems relatively simple but I have never done this before and since it is the cylinder head I am wondering if it is best to cut my losses and take it to a shop to remove the rest of the bolts. Any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated. I was really hoping for a simple swap of covers but oh well.

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post #2 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 12:15 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI, when I enlarge the pictures I can see that the valve cover is broken where the bolts are.. BUT those are actually Head STUD's with perversion for the valve cover nuts.. I think... Can you get us a better picture of the hole thing from farther back.. so we can see better to help you..
good luck
tim
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post #3 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 04:24 AM
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First of all, I do not remember 1982 model year 258 plastic valve covers having the bell washer and with the rubber seal to help hold down the cover. I don't think the motor in your CJ is 1982 but perhaps 1985 and later. They did not have those sealing bell washer until 1985. Take a picture of your engine serial number code and post. Its by the distributor and fuel pump, high up on the engine block.
As I said in another one of your thread postings, you will need to remove the cylinder head in order to get at the broken portion of the bolts. No way around it.
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post #4 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hopefully these pictures help. I think the video I watched of the '82 valve cover replacement had the same bell washer but I could easily be wrong. Thanks guys
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post #5 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
First of all, I do not remember 1982 model year 258 plastic valve covers having the bell washer and with the rubber seal to help hold down the cover. I don't think the motor in your CJ is 1982 but perhaps 1985 and later. They did not have those sealing bell washer until 1985. Take a picture of your engine serial number code and post. Its by the distributor and fuel pump, high up on the engine block.
As I said in another one of your thread postings, you will need to remove the cylinder head in order to get at the broken portion of the bolts. No way around it.
I think you're right. My guess it's one of the later engines with the smaller head bolts (7/16") and yes, the head needs to come off.
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post #6 of 21 Old 07-03-2020, 08:04 PM
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Hopefully these pictures help. I think the video I watched of the '82 valve cover replacement had the same bell washer but I could easily be wrong. Thanks guys

There you go, engine built on June 21, 1984. But my 84' never had that type of washer and I have owned it since new of July 1984.


What is the date code on the head? Maybe it was changed for a later year. Circled in the photo below will give a casting number of year made.
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post #7 of 21 Old 07-04-2020, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
There you go, engine built on June 21, 1984. But my 84' never had that type of washer and I have owned it since new of July 1984.


What is the date code on the head? Maybe it was changed for a later year. Circled in the photo below will give a casting number of year made.
82 is the head code. I am now thinking I will have to take it somewhere to have the head removed and broken bolts taken out. I assume that removing the head is a lot harder and riskier than my original plan of valve cover replacement. Am I correct in my thinking?

Also any clue approximately how much it will cost to have the head removed and bolts taken out at a shop?

BTW that is awesome you have owned your Jeep since Day 1. I got mine at 18 and had it ever since.

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post #8 of 21 Old 07-04-2020, 09:47 AM
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Head removal involves draining the cooling system, removing intake and exhaust manifolds and working around the plumbing and wiring...more like getting it out of the way , The head is heavy so you may require some help to remove and replace it. Then there's the job of actually removing the broken studs.
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post #9 of 21 Old 07-04-2020, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Head removal involves draining the cooling system, removing intake and exhaust manifolds and working around the plumbing and wiring...more like getting it out of the way , The head is heavy so you may require some help to remove and replace it. Then there's the job of actually removing the broken studs.
Ok that answers the question of my trying it myself. Any clue what shops might charge for that? I will be calling Monday but I am trying to prepare myself.

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post #10 of 21 Old 07-04-2020, 12:42 PM
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Wow! That looks like a 20 minute job just turned into a 3 day ordeal.

The next thing that will probably happen is the exhaust bolts will break when you try and remove those. Start soaking them with penetrating oil
oil daily about a week before you attempt to remove those. A propane torch can be used to heat them and then you can soak them with oil. It sometimes helps to suck the oil into the rusted threads.

Do the studs hold anything (like the head) besides the valve cover? Is there any creative fix like a expanding concrete anchor that could be used to hold the new valve cover and his repair could wait until an engine rebuild or a head rebuilding? Could he have a stud machined to a tight fit for the hole and then Loctite it in place? It could later be removed with a torch by heating the Loctite to remove the stud when the head is removed in the future.

I almost always push for doing things the correct way, but this looks like a big can of worms for an older engine of unknown mileage. Unless the owner can do the work himself/herself, it is going to get very expensive quickly.
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post #11 of 21 Old 07-04-2020, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
Wow! That looks like a 20 minute job just turned into a 3 day ordeal.

The next thing that will probably happen is the exhaust bolts will break when you try and remove those. Start soaking them with penetrating oil
oil daily about a week before you attempt to remove those. A propane torch can be used to heat them and then you can soak them with oil. It sometimes helps to suck the oil into the rusted threads.

Do the studs hold anything (like the head) besides the valve cover? Is there any creative fix like a expanding concrete anchor that could be used to hold the new valve cover and his repair could wait until an engine rebuild or a head rebuilding? Could he have a stud machined to a tight fit for the hole and then Loctite it in place? It could later be removed with a torch by heating the Loctite to remove the stud when the head is removed in the future.

I almost always push for doing things the correct way, but this looks like a big can of worms for an older engine of unknown mileage. Unless the owner can do the work himself/herself, it is going to get very expensive quickly.
You never know when Murphy will intervene. Yeah, the manifold bolts... PB Blaster is your friend.
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post #12 of 21 Old 07-06-2020, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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I found a mechanic who will just charge me labor if I provide the parts.

Can anyone send me a list of everything I will need for this?
Things I know:
Head Gasket
Head Bolts (what brand? I saw FeL-Pro and Crown make them but not sure if they are the best)
Antifreeze

I am sure there is more to the list. Thanks Everyone!
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post #13 of 21 Old 07-06-2020, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c82cj View Post
I found a mechanic who will just charge me labor if I provide the parts.

Can anyone send me a list of everything I will need for this?
Things I know:
Head Gasket
Head Bolts (what brand? I saw FeL-Pro and Crown make them but not sure if they are the best)
Antifreeze

I am sure there is more to the list. Thanks Everyone!
You should get a valve grind gasket set since it includes the head, valve cover and manifold gaskets. I like Felpro gaskets, never had any problems with them. I didn't know they made head bolts.
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post #14 of 21 Old 07-06-2020, 12:57 PM
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I would verify the cylinder head bolt thread size.

Edit: I found this web page that lists head bolt thread size by block casting no.

https://headbolts.com/jeep-amc-inlin...s-3-8-232.html
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post #15 of 21 Old 07-06-2020, 02:06 PM
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Depending how many miles are on the motor, you may want to have the valves in the head freshened up. Much of the cost is removing and replacing the head. You might want to do a compression test before you spend too much money on the motor.

I hope the mechanic you found is good at removing broken bolts. These types of problems have a way of going from hours and turning into days.

Keep up updated.

Good luck.
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