Upgrade air filter box after Sniper upgrade and emissions removal? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-18-2020, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Upgrade air filter box after Sniper upgrade and emissions removal?

So I pulled out a lot of the emissions and got the Sniper upgrade. I pulled off the filter box to clean it up and paint it only to find a handful of stuff that doesn't seem to be connected any longer or useful. I've boxed the pieces that don't seem to be connected after the swap and I'm feeling like the vacancy of some items (the 2 holes in the middle) that it may be causing a loss of air vacuum/pressure to the Sniper.

Thanks for the input!

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post #2 of 18 Old 01-18-2020, 08:55 PM
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I have no idea what the Sniper is, but removing the two holes inside of the filter diameter are just an opening for unfiltered air to enter.

The green box should still attach to your PCV inlet on the valve cover. You should still have PCV, don't eliminate it.
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-18-2020, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have no idea what the Sniper is, but removing the two holes inside of the filter diameter are just an opening for unfiltered air to enter.

The green box should still attach to your PCV inlet on the valve cover. You should still have PCV, don't eliminate it.
Holley Sniper EFI
The greens were connected to something and the reds were not.

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post #4 of 18 Old 01-18-2020, 09:24 PM
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The reds were sensors for the TAC system and some other things you no longer need since you've disconnected the emissions stuff. The 2 in the bigger red box need plugged but the 2 smaller red boxes are okay as long as the sensors remain. Otherwise you'll create 2 more holes. They won't leak any dirty air in. If your interested in parting with the trap door vacuum motor in the top red box I'd buy it from you provided it works when a vacuum is applied to it. Mine stopped working, must have a hole in the diaphragm.

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post #5 of 18 Old 01-18-2020, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
The reds were sensors for the TAC system and some other things you no longer need since you've disconnected the emissions stuff. The 2 in the bigger red box need plugged but the 2 smaller red boxes are okay as long as the sensors remain. Otherwise you'll create 2 more holes. They won't leak any dirty air in. If your interested in parting with the trap door vacuum motor in the top red box I'd buy it from you provided it works when a vacuum is applied to it. Mine stopped working, must have a hole in the diaphragm.
Thanks for the info! I've seen other systems where the air filter is open and sitting on top of the carb, so I wasn't sure if it was best to simply go that way. If I can plug that vacuum motor spot and pull it off I'll just send it to you for the cost of shipping. Don't care much about getting anything from it. Looks like it may be riveted on if I remember.

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post #6 of 18 Old 01-19-2020, 12:53 AM
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The factory air cleaner is superior to any open element filter. You should use it, especially if you spend any time on dusty dirt roads.

Just plug the 2 big holes on the bottom, hook the TAC up correctly, and connect the PCV intake hose. Not hard at all.

Whatever you do, don’t throw that factory air cleaner away. A lot of guys are looking for them.

Matt
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-19-2020, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
The factory air cleaner is superior to any open element filter. You should use it, especially if you spend any time on dusty dirt roads.

Just plug the 2 big holes on the bottom, hook the TAC up correctly, and connect the PCV intake hose. Not hard at all.

Whatever you do, donít throw that factory air cleaner away. A lot of guys are looking for them.

Matt

I agree - don't throw it out. These parts are harder to find, and those in emissions areas are needing them more. I still have a smog pump laying around somewhere I can't bring myself to toss. Never know when they'll pass more restrictions and we need to put everything back on...



As for the TAC, having the EFI, I don't know if you'd need that or not, as the EFI should adapt for the cooler air. Definitely keep the PCV.


Maybe instead of adapting that to work, measure the hole in the base and go to the JY and find one off an older vehicle that will work and not need the extra parts removed. Even one from an older CJ, as my 78 didn't have the 2 vacuum motors, only the one. Doesn't hurt to leave them there unplugged BTW, they default to open.


And not only are the factory assemblies better for dusty reasons, but when they are properly connected to the grille, they are bringing in fresh cool air, not hot underhood air preheated by the radiator and engine.

Rick

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post #8 of 18 Old 01-19-2020, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone. I'll keep it and clean it up. But in the process of doing so I guess there are a few things to clarify.

1. I have no Heated Air Tube return (as seen in 3rd photo) It's not connected to anything and I imagine this was emissions based for the vacuum motor? - This connects to the exhaust intake and I'm getting a hose for it. Wondering if not having a hose in place was the reason I was smelling so much fumes in the garage.
2. The door/flap in the 4th/5th image is the trap door? What on earth operates this thing if I have all things disconnect? Demand from the engine? The vacuum source was clipped on the trap door vacuum motor, which has me thinking that with no vacuum it won't open that flap for the engine to breathe
3. The 2nd image; With emissions gone I probably don't need the vacuum motor or the trap door assembly?
4. I had the PVC hooked up (for those curious) and the check valve connected. (That goes to the charcoal canister, right?)
5. I'm thinking I won't need the Tac vacuum motor, but now I'm going crazy as what is useless to me for emissions and what can open that door to let air in.
6. I'm going to find rubber caps to put on the 2 holes at the bottom of the TAC.

I hope the diagram and extra photos helps and I appreciate your help in reducing my confusion.
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 12:04 AM
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I would have thought the Sniper system would have negated the need for all the old emissions stuff.

I would have also thought the instructions would have told you what to do for air cleaners.

With that said........

The I258 uses a heater in the bottom of the intake to 'warm' up the air until things get up to temp. You will notice, engine cooling does not flow through the intake as it does on most other engines. The relay for that heater is on the firewall....but I don't remember what controls it.

Does the Sniper use the stock DuraSpark ignition? If so, I think I'd be putting in an HEI dist.

But as the others have said....the stock air cleaner does a good job. And don't forget, you have that pulse air injection system that is plumbed to the air cleaner. I'm not aware of an aftermarket replacement.


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post #10 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 08:02 AM
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The trap doors on the snorkel, also known as the TAC system, isn't just an emissions feature. It's a vacuum operated feature intended to provide warm air to the carb and intake during warmup for better cold weather performance and to prevent carb icing.

The OP's air cleaner has two two trap doors. The one furthest from carb slowly opens as the engine warms up. That's the actual TAC trap door. The other trap door is intended to control fumes from the carb. It opens as soon as the engine is started, then closes as soon as the engine is shut off. It also serves to keep mice out of the air cleaner. I don't think either function would interfere with the operation of the OP's fuel injection.

Here's how the vacuum hoses are hooked up. It's not the best pic, so feel free to ask more questions if it isn't clear.
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
The other trap door is intended to control fumes from the carb. It opens as soon as the engine is started, then closes as soon as the engine is shut off. It also serves to keep mice out of the air cleaner. I don't think either function would interfere with the operation of the OP's fuel injection.
That trap, one closest to the filter, is completely disconnected with no vacuum hose. Without the vacuum hose I see no way for that trap (rat blocker) to open and let air freely pull into the filter. I checked the hose on the bottom of the TAC and it isn't connected to that vacuum but instead goes to the canister. It appears that line for the fume trap/flap was simply pulled off and the split line was put into its place.

I'm glad to hear that it shouldn't cause too much of an issue with the EFI, but I'd certainly like it free of any problems. Side note; here is what my canister looks like.
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 12:35 PM
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The vapor canister system is separate from the TAC system. Rather than me typing out how each system works, go to this excellent website and read it for yourself: It's pretty easy to understand when it's broken down by system and each component, like this website does.

http://www.gleebledorf.com/list.html

If you still have question, let us know

Matt
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Even one from an older CJ, as my 78 didn't have the 2 vacuum motors, only the one. Doesn't hurt to leave them there unplugged BTW, they default to open.
Actually they both default closed. I had to tie my one open till I find another one to replace it. The lever is on the outside of the filter housing.

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post #14 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Actually they both default closed. I had to tie my one open till I find another one to replace it. The lever is on the outside of the filter housing.

Yep. If you decide not to use the TAC system, just unplug the hoses from the vacuum motors.

The trap door furthest from the carb or throttle body will default closed over the flexible heat tube that connects to the exhaust manifold. The one closest the carb will default closed over the air cleaner opening, not allowing any air to the intake. It will need to be wired open, or you can remove the trap door.

That said, if the vacuum motors and delay valves all work, I'd hook them back up and use the TAC system. It provides some useful benefits, with no downside.

Matt
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-20-2020, 01:06 PM
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I know the one for the heat stove tube defaults open, as if there is a failure they don't want over hot air going in, but being not familiar any more with the 2nd one's purpose, can't tell you there, but usually they default things for the safer option for the engine, usually fresh air in.

Rick

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