Turn Signals acting very strange. Please help. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-16-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
Adam12
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Turn Signals acting very strange. Please help.

I recently bought another 1983 CJ7. I owned an ‘84 25 years ago, sold it like an idiot! Had a wrangler for about 12 years then had children. Well I decided it was time for another. Found a nice one, but I can’t figure out a turn signal issue. Turn signal or hazards do not blink. Parking lights and side markers illuminate with knob pulled halfway out, but the weirdest thing is when I brake the parking lights get much brighter, and turn signal indicators on the dash illuminate. After reading a bunch online, I thought it could be a bulb issue at the tail lights back feeding power if the filaments were touching, but all bulbs are fine. It does appear there is a crack in the plastic at the turn signal switch, so I feel pretty confident the switch isn’t good, but the parking lights brightening, and dash turn signal indicators lighting up with braking is confusing me. I’m not sure what to check. I’m brand new to the forum, and not real confident in my search abilities either. So if I’ve missed something in a prior thread please forgive me. Thank you!

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-16-2019, 05:34 PM
oldschool74cj5
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hello
First welcome to the forum.

Second yes by the sounds of it the switch is bad. especially if you see a cracks in it. probably it is shorting and making cross connection inside the switch. they arent all that sturdy in construction.there is a brake feed wire going into the switch and instead of just out to the rear lights its also crossing over to the front signal lights which the indicator lights get there power from. i bet if you have someone watch the front turn lights will brighten when you brake. its pretty easy to change. if you dont have a copy of the FMM you get get a copy of a close year at www.oljeep.com under manuals. the factory manuals are so much better then trying to use a haynes or mitchel. Also what i told a good friend of mine is get name brand parts when you can. the switch you need is about 20-30 dollars on rockauto for a name brand one. the name brand ones are so much better and cheaper then the omix or crown. i had to change mine about 2 years ago. i also did my ignition switch since the key would fall out while driving. so if you can remove key while running its worth changing while in the colum. you can rent a steering wheel puller at a parts store.


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post #3 of 9 Old 04-16-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
Adam12
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Thank you very much for the advice, and confirming my suspicions. I had a crown switch in my cart to purchase, but after reading your post, I went to rock auto and bought a better one. Very much appreciated!
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-17-2019, 04:16 AM
John Strenk
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Well technically the filaments are always touching in the bulbs because they share a common ground. But in this case it's probably not a ground problem.

Usually the front turn signals and rear turn signals are on completely different circuits and are only connected when the turn signal switched is moved to one side or the other. The only other time they all are connected is when the emergency flasher circuit is activated.

Since you said you tested the emergency flashers and nothing works then I can assume you don't have the emergency knob pushed in. This is the usual cause of the front turn signals turning on when the brakes are activated. Along with a dead flasher unit for the emergency lights.

Since the brake lights work the fuse for the emergency flasher is probably good as they share the same fuse. you should check the turn signal fuse though.

I would get new flasher units though. These are cheap enough and will remove one problem of guessing if they work or not.

There is a contact plate with springs on it that keep the contacts in the switch together. The spring could of rusted out.

All said though, It looks like you are going to need a new switch.


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post #5 of 9 Old 04-17-2019, 04:18 PM
LumpyGrits
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Cj

Do your brake lights work?
Work the turn sig lever up and down about 2 dozen times(power OFF)and see what that does.
That cycling of the switch cleans the contacts up.
LG

Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
Adam12
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It was indeed the turn signal switch. Tested by plugging the new one in before I pulled the steering wheel and replaced. To make the whole ordeal so much more fun though. The CJ had one original turn signal/parking lamp, and one replacement crown brand lamp. I thought, well, while I'm replacing the switch, might as well put in a new lamp up front, get rid of the rusted old one, and put a matching crown one in. So, remember, I'd tested the turn signal switch with the old lamps in place, and everything worked fine. So I commence to pulling the steering wheel and replacing the switch, I've got it almost back together, and the wife walks into the garage and asks if I would like her to help with anything. So I say sure, why don't you replace that old lamp up front while I finish putting the steering wheel in, that way it'll all be done. So, the handy wife she is, she pulls the old lamp, puts the new one in right as I finish up the steering wheel. Connect the battery back up, and the new one DOESN'T WORK! It's way brighter than the existing crown one was, and it won't blink. So I remember reading all about ground issues on those replacement parking lamp housings, and she and I take it back out, make sure we use the old screws, make sure its grounding fine. Still doesn't work. So now my brain says, well maybe I didn't get the switch seated just right, and its not clicking all the way to one side, and that's why only one side is working. So I commence to pulling the steering wheel again, all the way back down to the switch, take the switch out, and operate manually. Whelp, the new lamp still won't flash! so I actually have her hold the housing tight to the frame so I know its not a grounding issue. Still won't flash! Then an old post flashed to memory where a guy on the forum had a replacement lamp that was wired backwards from the factory, took him a while to figure it out, but he cut the plug off, reversed the wires, and soldered it back. started working like a champ. So I start inspecting the lamp, could this be the issue? Am I going to have to cut and solder the wires in a brand new lamp? After closely inspecting I thought maybe I don't have to cut anything maybe I can unwire the socket. Pulled the rubber grommet, pushed the socket out of the housing, rotated it and put it back in, the put the rubber grommet back in place. Plugged it in, and it was now the right brightness and flashed! The socket was installed backwards in the housing direct from crown! But thanks to the forum I was able to figure it out. Only took about 2 hours and pulling the steering wheel twice, but I got it fixed without having to cut and solder a brand new lamp! You guys are the best!
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-16-2019, 01:07 PM
John Strenk
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Congratulations. It works. !!!

Does the connections in the socket still run up and down smoothly?
I think there is a notch in one side to keep it aligned and if it was rotated It might only go down which could jam and loose connection later on in life.
If there was two notches then you good.

If it happens, just rotate it pack to the correct position and swap the wires in the plug.
All you have to do is press down on a clip and they will push right out and you can swap the terminals.


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post #8 of 9 Old 05-16-2019, 02:39 PM
beavis83cj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Congratulations. It works. !!!

Does the connections in the socket still run up and down smoothly?
I think there is a notch in one side to keep it aligned and if it was rotated It might only go down which could jam and loose connection later on in life.
If there was two notches then you good.

If it happens, just rotate it pack to the correct position and swap the wires in the plug.
All you have to do is press down on a clip and they will push right out and you can swap the terminals.
I just did this last weekend so I'm familiar with the process and I took some pictures in case anyone needed help. Also, I'm way behind updating my thread which would have included this. Anyway, there are 2 tabs on the plastic contact 180 degrees apart that match the channel in the housing. I simply pushed out the plastic piece, rotated 180 degrees and pushed back into the channel. Worked fine...but I have no idea why. I'm learning about electricity but still very much a novice. Would love for someone to explain this to me. Most people have said they cut the wires and re-soldered, which I was ok with, but thought, what the heck, let me try this!
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Parking Light 1.jpg   Parking Light 2.jpg   Parking Light 3.jpg  
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-16-2019, 08:24 PM
John Strenk
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Nice pictures !!


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