Tub bent, door / hood doesn't fit, how to fix? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
royslaredo
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Tub bent, door / hood doesn't fit, how to fix?

Hi, I've just completed a yj tub swap on a complete rebuild of my 86 Laredo. The yj had been wrecked, a front end collision, and -unknown to me until now- this pushed the driver's side firewall back (I think both top and bottom, but mostly at the top) about 1/4". Now my driver's side door, and also the hood on that side, doesn't fit properly. See pics, note door gap at top and hood gap. Any suggestions on how I can bend this back into place?

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post #2 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 06:40 AM
Jeff88
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If it were me, I would spend a bunch of time hooking up with come alongs and trees and trying to pull it back straight, a person with a lot of patience could do this and it will bend back in place.

For myself, I would get frustrated and have no patience and I would need to take it to a body shop with a frame rack and see if they can get it back in place, which they could easily do.

it may seem like it, but in reality you aren't off by all that much, that tub will work back into shape pretty easily.

We once bought a brand new tub for a CJ and it was sort of warped from the factory and we ended up stretching it back into shape with chains, etc.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 09:47 AM
only in a jeep cj
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If it were bent bad, there would be waves in the sheet metal under the door.
Based on that gap, I would guess the tub isn’t square on the frame. Either the front is too far left or the rear is too far right.

There are alignment holes in each corner of the tub and those sections of the frame. I use a long spike like pry bar inserted and it’s easy to move the tub over. Even a quarter of on inch off can result in big gaps on the other end of the jeep. I can’t remember at the moment if the YJ tub has the same alignment holes. Probably not as the rear mounts are 3/4” off each compared to the CJ tub.

The way I align sheet metal is the square the tub up first. Insert all 10 mount bolts but leave them loose.
Install the hood next and get the tub to hood gap correct. Only tighten one bolt on each side of each hinge.
Then the grill gets centered under the hood with equal gaps on each side. Again, loose bolt inserted in mount hole. There is another alignment hole here ( the smaller hole next to the mount hole). Move the grill left or right to center the hood gaps. If it doesn’t happen, move the tub a small amount in the direction needed.
Then the fenders are bolted up and lifted at the tub to get the bottom edge hood gap.

Doors are next. With the windshield folded forward slightly to be out of the way. Get the door gaps correct at the tub first.
(The picture looks like the door is too low based on the bottom gap)
Then lean windshield back to get the windshield to front door frame gap correct. This one is largely based on if you set up your windshield hinge/ upper door hinge correctly.
Then lastly is the hardtop. The upper door go hardtop gaps will usually be too large if the door is too low on the tub. Sometimes the back edge of the top hangs off the rear of the tub just slightly to get the windshield gap to door gap correct.
Mock up takes time. You need all the parts in play now.

Anyway, I would try to shift the front of the tub ( to the right) first and close that gap with the hood hinges and go from there.
Check for waves or distortion under the doors or under the “Jeep” area for wreck damage.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
royslaredo
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Great advice and I really appreciate it. One thing you can't see and I didn't clarify well is that the door doesn't fit at all meaning it's hitting both the front and back. I've tried adjusting it all kinds of ways. You can see the front door gap but what you can not see is that the back door gap is also too small, and when I close the door it actually scrapes at the back, close to the latch and also just above that on the hardtop (also adjusted correctly). So, this can't just be that the tub needs to be moved left or right (although I will try that), but because the tub opening is too narrow for the door to fit I believe the tub is bent. Also, the bottom of the tub has some signs that the collision bent the tub, eg, gaps where they shouldn't be (I'll post pics soon).
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 12:39 PM
Jeff88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royslaredo View Post
Great advice and I really appreciate it. One thing you can't see and I didn't clarify well is that the door doesn't fit at all meaning it's hitting both the front and back. I've tried adjusting it all kinds of ways. You can see the front door gap but what you can not see is that the back door gap is also too small, and when I close the door it actually scrapes at the back, close to the latch and also just above that on the hardtop (also adjusted correctly). So, this can't just be that the tub needs to be moved left or right (although I will try that), but because the tub opening is too narrow for the door to fit I believe the tub is bent. Also, the bottom of the tub has some signs that the collision bent the tub, eg, gaps where they shouldn't be (I'll post pics soon).
Measure across the door jambs, from edge to edge and maybe someone with a YJ can measure one to tell you what it should be. Measure both sides if they are significantly different, you have your answer at least to know how far it is off.

I am at our cottage and don't have my YJ with me, I will be back to where I have it stored on Wednesday but I am sure someone can chime in before then.

When I mentioned patience before, it is because the tub is going to need adjusting in probably two areas, maybe more. If it is damaged, and if you took a bottle jack and wedge it in between the door jambs with some wooden posts, you'll be able to kinda spread it apart to fit the door, but then it may change shape in another direction. It's kind of artistic for lack of a better term as to how you get a tub back in shape.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
royslaredo
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Yes, the door jam on driver's side is 1/4" narrower.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 05:27 PM
KevinCJ7Jeep
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I had a similar issue after dumping my CJ7 on it’s side. I used a high lift jack placed on the upper dash and roll bar and was able to pop it back into place. Not the proper technique, but it worked.
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
royslaredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinCJ7Jeep View Post
I had a similar issue after dumping my CJ7 on it’s side. I used a high lift jack placed on the upper dash and roll bar and was able to pop it back into place. Not the proper technique, but it worked.
Ok, this is good. So, did it bend in other places like under the door jam? How much was yours off i.e., width of door jam?
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 06:22 PM
Jeff88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinCJ7Jeep View Post
I had a similar issue after dumping my CJ7 on itís side. I used a high lift jack placed on the upper dash and roll bar and was able to pop it back into place. Not the proper technique, but it worked.
It's the proper technique if it worked!
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 07:15 PM
KevinCJ7Jeep
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The passenger side dash and windshield was pushed back 3/8 to a 1/2”. Most of the damage was in the upper dash and in front of the door opening area
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post #11 of 11 Old 12-14-2019, 09:38 PM
BagusJeep
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The tubs were set up, welded and then straightened at the factory with chains and blocks before painting, some of this was done on the assembly line, they had issues with windshield to tub and doors to tub that required some beating. The assembly practices until the late 90s in most car plants involved fettling the metalwork to make it fit. Recent automation and measuring advances allow car manufacturers get it right first time, which saves money, and tighten the gaps.

The advice above on setting up the panels is good advice. It may get some of your gaps an awful lot better.

Bent metal will want to return to where it was, just make sure you spread the force you apply so you do not bend it locally. I would also not apply it to finished visible panels. Behind the dash on the edge of the firewall would be a good place to apply force if it was spread with timber. The roll bar was a good choice for Kevin, suitably braced with timber wedges it will spread the force through the side of the tube. I Would put wedges between the roll bar and upstand of the rear floor to prevent local floor buckling.

Many ways to do it, just take it gentle.

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