Toxic CJ-7 Build - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Hehe.. I didn't want to ask what that meant and appear stupid.. thanks Toxic!!

No Sweat bro. The ninja turtle deal let me in on his age a little and growing up where I did I'm not up on all the gangster talk these days.

I'll be posting up more when I get into work today and download some of the pics I took this weekend. But all of my work might go by the wayside on the rear axle if the guy with the rear steer 60 meets me where I want to be on it. We are off 250$ right now. We will see........

Todd


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post #47 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Here are the pics as promiced. After taking the
hub to the place that helped me take the large snap
ring out it was time to get the races out and pack the
new bearings. (below is the snap ring that they took out
and you can see the old race in there still)

This is what I used to tap the old races out. And the new
ones in.
(minus the large screw driver)

After new race is in and packed bearing

Time for the outer seal

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post #48 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Time to put the studs in the rotor

Pounded them with a hammer first then went
to the trusty impact.

Time to slide her on

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post #49 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Then back to slaping all the outer stuff back on.
First the washer with the notch that holds it in place

Then the nut that takes that special tool


Then the new spider shaped keeper

One more nut

Tighten that dude up

And sign off

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post #50 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Then the Axle goes back in. It has to be just right or
the outside bolts won't match up.

Now to puting on the calaper (pads were just thrown
in for the pic. You will notice the one on the right is
upside down =) )

Looks easy enough but I had to take the grinder out and
work on the hanger a little to get them to fit


All done

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post #51 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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As for the comments about the hubs clearing on the
H1's in a previous post. You are very much correct.
However the 2" spacers help a lot with that.
You will see that there is no grinding needed even
with the stock tie rod.

I like what the spacers do for the rear.
I've never realy liked the way the hugs
stick out without the spacers

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post #52 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Here is what the lockouts look like as far as
them hanging out past the face of the tire.

I think they will work just fine until I decide
I need different wheels.



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post #53 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Decided against the rear steer. Even if the guy were to come down on his price. I talked to a few hardcore wheelers from CA that I've got some parts off of and long story short it would just run the risk of more stuff that could go wrong on the trail "keep it simple" is how it was best put. So I'll be sticking with the 14bolt rear. Next weekend I will be shaving it.

Todd

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post #54 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thinking about keeping the 4.10 gears and running a range box (aftermarket). I've seen one called the Black Box. Any thoughts on these or anything like it? Seems like a good way to be able to tear it up in the snow and mud yet be able to gear down for the rocks.

Todd

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post #55 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 04:08 PM
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I think I just had deja vu looking at those 14 bolt pics. I just did the same thing to my 14 bolt that's now sitting under my Jeep but mine's just a rolling chassis. Looking good!
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post #56 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 04:50 PM
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the H-1 rims were my concern, but like you said the 2" spacers solve that problem. dont forget to weld your tubes in on the 14 bolt, jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


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post #57 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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the H-1 rims were my concern, but like you said the 2" spacers solve that problem. dont forget to weld your tubes in on the 14 bolt, jason.

I appriciate the heads up. I'll have to get that done this weekend

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post #58 of 108 Old 02-11-2008, 07:47 PM
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Nice! You can help protect those hubs a little better with some rockrings. If you plan on doing them, do them before the rims get all mashed up along the lip.. much easier to weld in. Might also just go to drive flanges.. simple, easy, tough.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #59 of 108 Old 02-12-2008, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Nice! You can help protect those hubs a little better with some rockrings. If you plan on doing them, do them before the rims get all mashed up along the lip.. much easier to weld in. Might also just go to drive flanges.. simple, easy, tough.
"rock rings" I've seen them on ebay. I had thought about using them. Do they have to be welded in? Not that, that would be a huge deal only I just got done painting the wheels and would have to scuff them up if so. For the money I'm sold on the H1's. If anyone is looking for some I know where you can get them for 25$ each Try finding any other beadlock for that kind of money or even 10x that kind of money.

Drive flanges- I'm on the fence about this one. Is that what you are running? I do like the fact you don't have to get out of your rig to lock in. Call me lazy I guess. I'm going to have to look into that one a little more.

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post #60 of 108 Old 02-12-2008, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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dont forget to weld your tubes in on the 14 bolt, jason.

I'll have that covered with the Truss I have from BTF for the 14B.


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