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post #16 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few more pics that show the not so nice parts of the jeep.
This will be covered up as I'm comp cuting it and running crushers with LED's.

Both sides are rusted and have the junk bondo flaked off

The windshied frame has rust. I'll be buying a new one and painting it when I paint the armor.


If you like it that much. Buy it off of me


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post #17 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 02:31 PM
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Man, that's way too nice a "Real Jeep" to destroy... Have mercy!

Bruce
I was in agreement with you until I saw those recent pics... you never know what something looks like until you are right up close... it was a great 20 footer, but up close, it looks like it has more then meets the eye.


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post #18 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joonhoss71 View Post
what gears are you going to run? Any reason you're going with an OD trans?

and why on earth would anyone with a nice plush like a TJ want a CJ?

Hoss
I'm going to run 5.13's. The reason for the 700R4 with the 4 gear over the TH350 is the fact that it does have one more gear. My last YJ had the TH350 and I hated the limitations of it. Hands down this is going to be no great road queen. I'm not building it for that. But. I do want to be able to get it up on the road if I so desire and with the r4 it will make that easier.

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Gotta say, if it's actually as nice as it appears to be in the pics, I'd be hesitant to hack it up the way you're going to have to to run that suspension & tire combo. I'd buy a cheap 4-banger YJ since you're tossing the drivetrain anyway and swap a CJ front clip onto it....dime a dozen rig with a beefier frame that's spaced better for axle swappin'. But hey, it's your rig and your money.
Good call on the YJ frame etc. However Before my TJ was a YJ. I liked it don't get me wrong but I never got comfortable with the way the dash was etc. Growing up all I had were CJ's 5's and 7's. My friends dad owned a salvage yard. They built their jeeps up killer and I didn't ever have the funds. I guess is has become a who has the largest **** contest. I'm going to win this time I planed on beefing up the frame of whatever jeep I landed on. I picked this one up for 2500. I liked the color and it just started talking to me. This was the one I was going to build and build right. Even if it took me a little time with our second kid only 30 days away.

Todd

BUY IT DONT' BUILD IT!! You will be money and time ahead. (Flip off)
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post #19 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here it is all dirty on the side of my barn. When I got the 42's home the first day I had to see what they would look like next to the heep

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post #20 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxic TJ View Post
I'm going to run 5.13's. The reason for the 700R4 with the 4 gear over the TH350 is the fact that it does have one more gear. My last YJ had the TH350 and I hated the limitations of it. Hands down this is going to be no great road queen. I'm not building it for that. But. I do want to be able to get it up on the road if I so desire and with the r4 it will make that easier
with that set-up, I'd think the last thing you'd need is overdrive

in any event, it looks like a fun build, you're off to a good start...

(and congrats on that second impending bundle of joy)

Hoss

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement
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post #21 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joonhoss71 View Post
with that set-up, I'd think the last thing you'd need is overdrive

in any event, it looks like a fun build, you're off to a good start...

(and congrats on that second impending bundle of joy)

Hoss

Why would anyone not want overdrive if you were ever going to put it on blacktop?

Thanks for the Congrats. I must have made god realy mad. I'm having another girl

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post #22 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 07:14 PM
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what ever you do coils or leaf springs on the 14 bolt weld your tubes to the housing. i didn't, broke the three plug welds holding the pass tube, cracked the housing and made for a fun time trying to get back off the trail. this was done with a stock 4.0, 39.5's, three feet in the air and alot of skinney peddle.

are you going to re-center the hummer rims. if not you may need to cut the factory arms off the knuckles and get high ster arms that can handle the 7'' offset of the factory rims. the only other problem with H-1 rime is the front hubs stick out or are damm close to flush with the outside of the tire.

you going to run 35 spline outers, the stock 30 spline stubs dont really like the 42's, how mine survive with 39's is beyond me. is the stock inner shafts neck down or non neck down's. if there non neckers then i would just get the 35 spline 70 stubs for now and new spicer life joints. you will have a good time on these shafts till chrome ones can be had. look forward to seeing more, jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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post #23 of 108 Old 02-04-2008, 10:15 PM
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Ah, definitely one of those 'good from afar' bodies...have fun hackin'

Not much point to the OD unless it's going to spend a large chunk of time cruising 60+ on the highway. TH350 or 400 will get the job done on the trails and around town with some moderate highway use for less money/complication and a shorter drivetrain.

'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,4.5" RE XD,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers.
'83 Scrambler: 360,T-999,D300,D30/A20,1-piece shafts,rear discs,33" Fun Country's.

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post #24 of 108 Old 02-05-2008, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jason m View Post

are you going to re-center the hummer rims. if not you may need to cut the factory arms off the knuckles and get high ster arms that can handle the 7'' offset of the factory rims. the only other problem with H-1 rime is the front hubs stick out or are damm close to flush with the outside of the tire.

you going to run 35 spline outers, the stock 30 spline stubs dont really like the 42's, how mine survive with 39's is beyond me. is the stock inner shafts neck down or non neck down's. if there non neckers then i would just get the 35 spline 70 stubs for now and new spicer life joints. you will have a good time on these shafts till chrome ones can be had. look forward to seeing more, jason.
I have some 2" wheel spacers that came with the wheels. They are new and I'm going to run them (all around) to start out with until they show me that they will not be able to hang. They are on there now and clear the stock arms so I know I'm not going to have a problem when I get my histeer on. H1's are killer wheels for the money. NOT my first pick but when trying to build all of this at once you have to cut some corners. Plus I got a good buy on the 16.5x 15x42" TSL's so it all kind of played out. I'd like to run TrailReady's don't get me wrong

As for the outers. I'm on the fence on this one. I have a box with 2 warn. prem. 35 spline lockouts siting on my bench. All I need is the chromo's in 35 spline and i'm in there. BUT. I know guys that are running 42's and 30 spline outers and have had no problems so I'm not sure yet what I"m going to do here. I've heard it put like this. It's easier to replace an outer on the trail than a ring gear. If I go with the 35 spline outers my next weak link will be the gear and I"m not sure I feel like tearing them up......So I'm not sure what I'm going to do there. I'll keep the pics flowing and will mostlikey be looking for help along the way

Quote:
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Ah, definitely one of those 'good from afar' bodies...have fun hackin'


I appriciate the approval

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post #25 of 108 Old 02-05-2008, 03:38 PM
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you will waste a set of chrome shafts before you break a ring and pinion.
http://www.ctjeep.org/ctjeep3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6913 . that was a yukon shaft that let go in a friend rubicon in his back yard. granted it was high pinion so its a stronger ring and pinion ( moving forward ) but it was a stock set of gears on a detriot with 39 red lables.

i think if your somewhat easy on the gas the 30 spline stubs will last. keep the stock warn hubs, they will act like fuse's and should let loose before the stub twisting or the U-joint breaking. i love the H-1 rims, like you said there the cheapest way of getting double bead lock's. its the 16.5 that make's it hard to run them.

i like the 700r first gear ( 3.06 ) but the damm thing is long and depening on how much you strecth the rear or push the motor forward will help with the rear drive shaft. im 106'' and really like it but the its somtimes tuff to turn. i can agree with jeepskate with the fact if overdrive is the only reasion your going 7004 a T-400 might be better. not trying to change your build just pointing out some of my mistakes, jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...


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post #26 of 108 Old 02-05-2008, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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you will waste a set of chrome shafts before you break a ring and pinion.
http://www.ctjeep.org/ctjeep3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6913 . that was a yukon shaft that let go in a friend rubicon in his back yard. granted it was high pinion so its a stronger ring and pinion ( moving forward ) but it was a stock set of gears on a detriot with 39 red lables.

i think if your somewhat easy on the gas the 30 spline stubs will last. keep the stock warn hubs, they will act like fuse's and should let loose before the stub twisting or the U-joint breaking. i love the H-1 rims, like you said there the cheapest way of getting double bead lock's. its the 16.5 that make's it hard to run them.

i like the 700r first gear ( 3.06 ) but the damm thing is long and depening on how much you strecth the rear or push the motor forward will help with the rear drive shaft. im 106'' and really like it but the its somtimes tuff to turn. i can agree with jeepskate with the fact if overdrive is the only reasion your going 7004 a T-400 might be better. not trying to change your build just pointing out some of my mistakes, jason.
Point well taken on the Trans. However the T-400 is proven to rob HP from the 350 engine where the 700r4 does not. Sure they are a little longer. That is the one thing I have not bought yet so if someone can find me one in good shape that is right on the money I'd get all over it. I found a Raptor 700r4 that I'm prob. going to buy. The guy is throwing in a B&M Mega shifter the trans cost $1950 It's BUILT. But I'm tring to work him a little on the money since he ran it for one season.
I just got my BTF rear bumper that is set up for using XJ springs. I'll be running XJ's front and rear so I don't think I'm going to have much of a problem with length. I'll post up pics of the bumper tomorrow. Keep the ideas flowing guys. You keep me on my toes

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post #27 of 108 Old 02-06-2008, 06:13 AM
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I ran a B&M Quicksilver on my trail rig.. for about 2 runs. I hated the ratchet shifting. I ended up gutting and just kept the shell and shifter cable. Made my own handle and "Park" lockout. Now, I can shift between forward/reverse instantly.

As for breaking a front 60... I ran 35 spline inner/outer factory shafts for a year or so with Spicer joints. Ended up breaking a joint that took out the ears on the shafts when it let go. Been running Yukons and Longfields for the past 2 years or so.. without problem. That's with 42s a stout smallblock and a "I'm not a afraid to float the valves" approach to wheeling.

The 700r4 is a nice tranny but kind of pricey for a trail rig. Not sure how often you plan on shifting into OD on the highway with 42s but I'd think it would be an interesting ride.
I really like the T350. A decent 1st gear, strong and cheap. I twisted my first one in half due to some mounting issues. Fixed the setup and haven't had a problem in 2 years. It runs straight up/down and on it's side too. Plus, I got it shipped to the front door for less than $800 completely rebuilt with a converter (Jackson Transmission out of NC.. on eBay).

Looking forward to the buildup.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #28 of 108 Old 02-06-2008, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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I ran a B&M Quicksilver on my trail rig.. for about 2 runs. I hated the ratchet shifting. I ended up gutting and just kept the shell and shifter cable. Made my own handle and "Park" lockout. Now, I can shift between forward/reverse instantly.


The 700r4 is a nice tranny but kind of pricey for a trail rig.

Looking forward to the buildup.
I'd like to see pics of your shifter if you have any? I'm not sold on the ratchet shifters I had one in my YJ. It worked fine but does take a little time to go from D to R. Point well taken.

I'm thinking I'm going to get the Built Raptor 700r bought for around 6-700$. I feel like that is right on the money with the converter there, shifter and a few other things. But if a deal falls into my lap I'm not about to walk away from it. Plus I already bought the addapter from a 700r to the Dana 300 from advanced. Sure I could send it back.
Do you have any pics of how your cleared your Trans. pan with your front drive shaft? I've heard of people running a carrier bearing etc.
Thanks!
Todd

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post #29 of 108 Old 02-06-2008, 09:50 AM
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I think I spent about an hour hacking the shifter body apart. I made a handle out of some scrap stainless I had laying around (but stock shift lever would've worked). This isn't a great pic but it's the only one I could find..



Don't have any pics of my front driveshaft. It was a tight fit though. I used a High Angle 1350 "long spline" front shaft. I think the splined male portion was 1 5/8" and the female tube is now 2"x.250" wall DOM. I run the splined portion up near the tranny. I ended up grinding the splines off the shaft where it passed the tranny pan. I also ground the tranny pan mounting lip.. a lot. It still barely clears but I can go full droop/compression without it touching. Some folks do run two-piece shafts with a carrier bearing to get around the clearance issue.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #30 of 108 Old 02-06-2008, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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I think I spent about an hour hacking the shifter body apart. I made a handle out of some scrap stainless I had laying around (but stock shift lever would've worked). This isn't a great pic but it's the only one I could find..



Don't have any pics of my front driveshaft. It was a tight fit though. I used a High Angle 1350 "long spline" front shaft. I think the splined male portion was 1 5/8" and the female tube is now 2"x.250" wall DOM. I run the splined portion up near the tranny. I ended up grinding the splines off the shaft where it passed the tranny pan. I also ground the tranny pan mounting lip.. a lot. It still barely clears but I can go full droop/compression without it touching. Some folks do run two-piece shafts with a carrier bearing to get around the clearance issue.
Thanks for the pic! I'm thinking that is what I will do only use the existing shifter since I will already have it (less fab work). I just bought the Raptor 700r4. Got it off of him for 700 with the shifter and a bunch of other stuff. Now just waiting on it to get here from Cali.

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