timing and carburetor - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 32 Old 03-28-2020, 06:48 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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All the symptoms point to either a vacuum leak, or an obstruction in the fuel delivery. Backfires thru the intake is usually due to a lean air/fuel mixture.

Have you checked the plugs? I bet they are white.

Matt



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post #17 of 32 Old 03-29-2020, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Jordan76CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurricane4 View Post
Did you check for vacuum leaks around the carb & carb spacer? Didn't see where you mentioned this was done.

Re-Connect the vacuum line back up to the distributor. Have a second person start your Jeep - in neutral - e-brake on - tires chocked -
keeping Jeep revved while you spray carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks. Do this outside.

Maybe take the carb spacer off and re-install carb to see if this corrects the problem.

Also you mentioned your Jeep has a "fairly new distributor". Maybe try a new distributor cap and rotor.

okay so I ended up finding one vacuum leak on old egr valve and I fixed it and have no more vacuum leaks that I can find although when revving it sounds as if its sucking air somewhere but could just be the carb I'm not sure.. I finally got it set where it will idle but will not idle anywhere under 1300-1500 rpms so when I try to set timing with timing light it's not even reading anywhere on any of the degree marks.. I have it where it is running decent when parked but when you drive it it pops and crackles like before but not as bad.. just enough where it will bog out if you dont push clutch in and feather gas for a second.. am I going in right direction It seems i am but i have no idea if theres bigger issue than i think or what.. thanks everyone
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post #18 of 32 Old 03-29-2020, 07:54 PM
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Is your fuel filter the OEM style - one inlet and two outlets? One inlet from fuel pump and an outlet to carb and one outlet back to fuel tank?

Fuel filter should be installed with the smaller outlet - return to fuel tank - on top.

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post #19 of 32 Old 03-29-2020, 09:28 PM
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Ugh. Quit chasing your tail and pull a few plugs to determine if itís a fuel or ignition issue.

Matt
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post #20 of 32 Old 03-29-2020, 10:02 PM
turbogus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurricane4 View Post
Is your fuel filter the OEM style - one inlet and two outlets? One inlet from fuel pump and an outlet to carb and one outlet back to fuel tank?

Fuel filter should be installed with the smaller outlet - return to fuel tank - on top.

...the orientation of that O.E. fuel filter, that tripped me up in a similar fashion as Jordan's symptoms. Another issue was how I had the plug wires not separated properly, allowing for current to jump.
Attached Thumbnails
P1060952.jpg   P1060955.jpg  

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Last edited by turbogus; 03-29-2020 at 11:50 PM. Reason: adding photos
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post #21 of 32 Old 03-29-2020, 11:06 PM
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HI OK if it is running but very bad and NONE of the timing marks are visible with the light .. you need to get the idle down to 750 to find the marks, or ether the chain is bad or you are still 180* out .. follow my suggestion in my earlier post to get the timing maybe back to normal. also use a piece of hose put one end to your ear and move the other end around the motor and you should be able to find any vacuum leak by hearing it..
good luck
tim
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post #22 of 32 Old 03-30-2020, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
Jordan76CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurricane4 View Post
Is your fuel filter the OEM style - one inlet and two outlets? One inlet from fuel pump and an outlet to carb and one outlet back to fuel tank?

Fuel filter should be installed with the smaller outlet - return to fuel tank - on top.
it is the correct fuel filter and I have it orientated right and have the smaller hose going back to return line
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post #23 of 32 Old 03-30-2020, 09:26 PM
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Things that come to mind:

1.) Pull all spark plugs and post pics here.

2.) Perform compression test and post results here.

3.) Check all plug wires and coil wire for continuity.

Still sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere.
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post #24 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 07:08 AM
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Before you go any further, Jordan, may I suggest investing in a vacuum gauge?

They don't cost a lot, and they are invaluable for diagnosing pre-OBD vehicles.

Josh
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post #25 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 09:55 AM
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HI when you say you can't get it to idle below 1300 is it due to the idle screw backed all the way off and idle won't come down or is well die if you go below the 1300? if it won't idle below 1300 with the screw backed all the way off then you have a vacuum leak. supplying air to the motor..
good luck
tim
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post #26 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 12:49 PM
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I would start with basics. Static time your motor as if you were doing it for the first time. #1 at TDC, properly align your distributor. Your distributor could be off one tooth.

You then can look for other things like vacuum leaks, carb settings, etc.

1972 CJ5 304 V8, 3 speed manual trans
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post #27 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 02:59 PM
pedal2themetai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nor Cal CJ5 View Post
I would start with basics. Static time your motor as if you were doing it for the first time. #1 at TDC, properly align your distributor. Your distributor could be off one tooth.

You then can look for other things like vacuum leaks, carb settings, etc.
Remember #1 piston at TDC happens twice (2 times) and you need the proper one. If you pull the cap and rotate the motor (by hand) you WELL notice that TDC on the crank happens twice and only one well be at the #1 wire in the cap.. Once TDC at the top of the compression stroke (the one you need for timing) and once at the top of the exhaust stroke (the one you DON'T want).

There for the 4 stroke motor. intake, compression, power and exhaust.

1) intake, the piston going down sucking in fuel and air mix.

2)compression, the piston going up and at the top of this stroke (TDC on the crank) is what you want for timing and where the #1 well fire and rotor should be pointing to the #1 wire in the cap.

3) power, the piston going down after it has been fired by distributor driving the motor.

4) exhaust, the piston going up again to expel the gases and again at the top of this stroke it well show TDC on the crank but the distributor rotor WELL NOT BE POINTING TO THE #1 WIRE IN THE CAP it should be pointing 180* off. at this point the motor may run but run bad and any timing mark well not be seen with a light.

At the top of the compression and at the top of the exhaust stroke the crank well show TDC But the Distributor well only show pointing ONCE to the #1 wire in the cap. crank rotates twice to once of the distributor.

If you are positive of the above and it doesn't run then ether its a vacuum leak or the chain has gone bad and it well never run properly till fixed.

good luck
tim
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post #28 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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okay I am about 90 percent sure it is vacuum leak under carb.. waiting on new gaskets in mail I ordered 2 of the thick felpro gaskets my question now is that can I stack two gaskets under the carb.. reason i ask is because the carb doesn't sit all the way down. it hits the intake on front side of motor.. with one gasket it leaks and with the spacer it leaks but not as bad but it has paper thin gaskets.. if I could just remove the spacer and use two of the thick gaskets on top of one another it would be perfect but dont know if it would cause any problems. thanks
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post #29 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 06:33 PM
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HI, not sure if you can stack two of the thick gaskets.. depending on the type some have plastic inserts at the studs you might have to use a thin between them.. you'll know more when you get them.
Maybe use a thick on top and bottom of the spacer?
good luck
tim
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post #30 of 32 Old 03-31-2020, 06:37 PM
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Does your CJ V8 have the factory cast iron intake? If so you might be missing the correct gasket/spacer.

These photos are of the carb gaskets/spacers from the cast iron intake that was on the 304 in my CJ5.

Don't know if these are OEM correct. Link below to gaskets/spacers:

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...ng-base-gasket
Attached Thumbnails
Jeep CJ5 304 2 Barrel Cast Iron Intake Carb Gasket-Spacer 1.jpg   Jeep CJ5 304 2 Barrel Cast Iron Intake Carb Gasket-Spacer 2.jpg   Jeep CJ5 304 2 Barrel Cast Iron Intake Carb Gasket-Spacer 3.jpg  

"The unbelievable we can do immediately . . . the impossible just takes a little longer."
My College Accounting Professor

"Success is not final. Failure is not fatal. It is the courage to continue that counts"
Winston Churchill

Jeeps I Have Owned in Year Order:
'61 CJ5, '63 CJ6, '78 CJ5, '79 CJ5 (Current), '79 CJ7 & '86 CJ7.
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