timing and carburetor - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
Jordan76CJ
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timing and carburetor

okay so heres my new problem I have my jeep completely assembled and have had it running but I loosened the bolt on distributor to adjust it now I've got timing light hooked up but the jeep will not idle it will only stay running if I pat the gas and keep it going or if I turn screw to idle it up some more and itll stay running but how do I use the timing light to set timing if the motor needs to be idling if I cant get it to stay idling unless it's a very very high idle? new to carburetors and setting timing.. carb is adjusted to 2.25 turns started at 1.5 turns got it to where it wont skip when you give it gas but dont know how to adjust everything to where it idles good and wont bog out when give it gas

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post #2 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 09:30 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI your going to need a Tach as well .. If you started it with the bolt lose on the distributor it may have turned while trying to start it. What motor and what carb do you have?? Also did you unplug the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug it (so there is no vacuum leak)?
Idle RPM should be 650 with a manuel transmission an750 with an automatic in N. Was it running simi OK before you adjusted the mixture screw to 2.25 and or loosened the bolt? Is there anything else you did to it, gaskets or wires?
good luck
tim
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post #3 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 09:37 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI Ok looking at some of your posts I see its a 304 automatic ... if you can get it started and running some what.. try turning the distributor a little while its running and see if it clears up to getting a better adjustment as I stated above..
good luck
tim
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post #4 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan76CJ View Post
Okay, so here's my new problem:

I have my jeep completely assembled and have had it running, but I loosened the bolt on distributor to adjust it. Now I've got timing light hooked up but the jeep will not idle. It will only stay running if I pat the gas and keep it going or if I turn screw to idle it up some more. It'll stay running, but how do I use the timing light to set timing if the motor needs to be idling if I cant get it to stay idling, unless it's a very high idle?

New to carburetors and setting timing.. carb is adjusted to 2.25 turns started at 1.5 turns; got it to where it wont skip when you give it gas, but I don't know how to adjust everything to where it idles good and wont bog out when give it gas.
Ok, man. Let's start by not turning anything until you have it running.

Did it idle before you moved the distributor? If it idled before you moved the distributor, you need to get that distributor back to where it belongs.

Take it back to TDC: Bring #1 piston all the way to the top, and pull the cap. The rotor will be pointing either toward #1 or 180 away from #1. If it's 180 out, turn the motor until it's approximately pointing at #1. Then, loosen the distributor body and turn it so that you're pointing at #1.

Now you're at TDC.

Try starting it. Set the idle with your tachometer, and then set the timing. I think the specs are 5 BTDC at 750rpm, but I'm trying to remember over the span of 20 years. After that I went to fuel injection and haven't owned a carb since.

Josh
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post #5 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 05:45 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI Josh (Wabatuckian) Is close to right.. but bring the crank to TDC (0*) pull the cap the rotor should be point to the #1 plug wire in the cap or 180* out ( the crank comes up the TDC 0* twice to one rotation of the rotor you need the proper one as one is compression and the other is exhaust you need the compression one to set ). .. If it is not pointing to the #1 wire in the cap, but is close move the distributor to where it is. if it is not close rotate the crank again to TDC and check again.. then try and start. if it starts but is running rough make sure your timing light is hooked up and move the distributor until it shows 5*. (make sure the vacuum advance is unhooked at the distributor and hose is plugged..)
good luck
tim
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post #6 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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yes I have 304 but I've swapped motor into another jeep I now have manual trans.. I have motorcraft 2150 carb and the previous owner had adjusted timing so I dont think it was right when I got it... has fairly new distributor and all new plugs plug wires and ignition solenoid
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post #7 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabatuckian View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan76CJ View Post
Okay, so here's my new problem:

I have my jeep completely assembled and have had it running, but I loosened the bolt on distributor to adjust it. Now I've got timing light hooked up but the jeep will not idle. It will only stay running if I pat the gas and keep it going or if I turn screw to idle it up some more. It'll stay running, but how do I use the timing light to set timing if the motor needs to be idling if I cant get it to stay idling, unless it's a very high idle?

New to carburetors and setting timing.. carb is adjusted to 2.25 turns started at 1.5 turns; got it to where it wont skip when you give it gas, but I don't know how to adjust everything to where it idles good and wont bog out when give it gas.
Ok, man. Let's start by not turning anything until you have it running.

Did it idle before you moved the distributor? If it idled before you moved the distributor, you need to get that distributor back to where it belongs.

Take it back to TDC: Bring #1 piston all the way to the top, and pull the cap. The rotor will be pointing either toward #1 or 180 away from #1. If it's 180 out, turn the motor until it's approximately pointing at #1. Then, loosen the distributor body and turn it so that you're pointing at #1.

Now you're at TDC.

Try starting it. Set the idle with your tachometer, and then set the timing. I think the specs are 5 BTDC at 750rpm, but I'm trying to remember over the span of 20 years. After that I went to fuel injection and haven't owned a carb since.

Josh
I will do this tomorrow if the rain stops and will report back
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post #8 of 32 Old 03-23-2020, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI your going to need a Tach as well .. If you started it with the bolt lose on the distributor it may have turned while trying to start it. What motor and what carb do you have?? Also did you unplug the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug it (so there is no vacuum leak)?
Idle RPM should be 650 with a manuel transmission an750 with an automatic in N. Was it running simi OK before you adjusted the mixture screw to 2.25 and or loosened the bolt? Is there anything else you did to it, gaskets or wires?
good luck
tim
I just went through and put new gaskets through entire motor and new water pump and few others.. left distributor on and never adjusted it and it would crank and idle but would idle at 1000 rpm when supposed to idle at 650 and if I adjust it down or adjust needles on carb itll just shut off.. so I cracked bolt loose on distributor and was just going to move it a hair and it helped a lot but when I tightened it back down and adjusted carb again now it only stay running if you pat the gas
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post #9 of 32 Old 03-24-2020, 05:19 AM
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Start at the basics and check that your vacuum hoses are all where they should be, that there are no major leaks anywhere and that the timing marks are correct (they often are wrong).

You have wound out the idle bleed screws so you are letting in more but this may be because you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Your inability to balance it at idle is symptomatic of a leak. If you have a vacuum gauge, find out how much you are really pulling at idle, (18 inches or above would be OK) it is this pressure that draws in fuel and air but a leak means you lean out and stall at low flows.

If you think you are OK, plug the vacuum tube to the distributor and get it to about 10 degrees BTDC at idle. You can get the best idle by using the vacuum gauge and then check the marks (see internet for how to do this), it may surprise you that the wear in parts and changes in fuel have changed the best timing by a few degrees.

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post #10 of 32 Old 03-24-2020, 11:50 AM
pedal2themetai
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HI FYI to look at.. the 2100 is notorious for vacuum leaks if the proper base plate gasket is not used.. there are two types of gaskets.. take some carb cleaner and spray around the carb, intake and hoses to check for a vacuum leak (while the motor is running) if the RPM picks up you found your leak..
You said you replaced all the gaskets .. can you be specific on which ones you replaced.. Head, intake, carb, valve cover ect??
good luck
tim
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post #11 of 32 Old 03-25-2020, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
HI FYI to look at.. the 2100 is notorious for vacuum leaks if the proper base plate gasket is not used.. there are two types of gaskets.. take some carb cleaner and spray around the carb, intake and hoses to check for a vacuum leak (while the motor is running) if the RPM picks up you found your leak..
You said you replaced all the gaskets .. can you be specific on which ones you replaced.. Head, intake, carb, valve cover ect??
good luck
tim
I replaced the head gaskets, intake gasket, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, carburetor gaskets and added half inch spacer to pick up off of intake because it was hitting on the intake and wasnt sealing all the way around, also replaced other gaskets like water pump and water pump gasket and gasket on fuel pump etc.. etc.. carb is a motorcraft 2150
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post #12 of 32 Old 03-26-2020, 05:16 AM
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HI OK. did you use a torque wrench on the head? and are you sure the plug wires are on in the right order? if all is good with this then take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the carb and intake to head gasket and vacuum lines to check for vacuum leak.. if the RPM's pick up you found a leak.. Hope this helps
good luck
tim
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post #13 of 32 Old 03-27-2020, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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HI Josh (Wabatuckian) Is close to right.. but bring the crank to TDC (0*) pull the cap the rotor should be point to the #1 plug wire in the cap or 180* out ( the crank comes up the TDC 0* twice to one rotation of the rotor you need the proper one as one is compression and the other is exhaust you need the compression one to set ). .. If it is not pointing to the #1 wire in the cap, but is close move the distributor to where it is. if it is not close rotate the crank again to TDC and check again.. then try and start. if it starts but is running rough make sure your timing light is hooked up and move the distributor until it shows 5*. (make sure the vacuum advance is unhooked at the distributor and hose is plugged..)
good luck
tim
okay I found tdc and moved cap to where it was pointing at number 1 plug wire which was about a half inch off.. then I put everything back except for the vacuum advance but I plugged off the vacuum advance to where it has no vacuum leak I hooked my timing light up and got ready to crank but it will not stay running it is popping and crackling and backfiring out of carburetor and exhaust.. and will not idle at all.. will only stay running if you keep giving it gas and it wants to cut off .. I messed with carb screws to try to get it to where it would idle so I can check timing with light but no success..
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post #14 of 32 Old 03-28-2020, 05:53 AM
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Did you check for vacuum leaks around the carb & carb spacer? Didn't see where you mentioned this was done.

Re-Connect the vacuum line back up to the distributor. Have a second person start your Jeep - in neutral - e-brake on - tires chocked -
keeping Jeep revved while you spray carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks. Do this outside.

Maybe take the carb spacer off and re-install carb to see if this corrects the problem.

Also you mentioned your Jeep has a "fairly new distributor". Maybe try a new distributor cap and rotor.

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post #15 of 32 Old 03-28-2020, 06:45 AM
pedal2themetai
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Hi sounds like it is now 180* out now,, move your plug wires 180*.. remove cap move TDC mark to where it is pointing at the #1 wire now .. then rotate the motor one rotation .. it should be pointing 180* away.. NOW move your wires to where #1 wire is At this location. should clear it up and run.. Remember the crank goes to TDC twice to ONE rotation of the distributor that gives you one for compression and one for exhaust. I think your on the Exhaust stroke now.. Also make sure your firing order is right and going the right direction.
good luck
tim
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