Tie Rod Flip - Need some guidance - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
PottsyCJ5
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Tie Rod Flip - Need some guidance

I am in the middle of replacing all of my suspension components (replacing PO installed piecemeal lift with a complete 2.5" lift) and while I have my front end suspension apart it occurred to me this is the perfect time to flip my tie rod to the top of the knuckle. I have done a TON of searching/reading on the forums but I still have a couple questions on what will work for my application I am hoping y'all can help me with. I have a pretty significant angle between my drag link and my tie rod, and have been told before my jeep is a perfect candidate for the tie rod flip so I am pretty sold on doing it.

To change the taper on the Dana 30 Knuckle I am looking at using one of these options below, but none of these products say they work for a Dana 30 on 75 CJ5 for sure. I am leaning towards the Teraflex product but it says it is made for the taper of a stock TJ - is there any difference between the tie rod ends used for a TJ or a CJ? Can't seem to find any info on that online. I like the Teraflex unit because it doesn't require welding since I don't have a welder. Both sleeves use the same 3/4" O.D. hole in the knuckle so no difference there. Will the Teraflex work? I have already ordered a new stock Tie Rod and Drag Link - my tie rod was bent in an accident in November and needed replaced so I decided to replace both.

My other question is how many of these sleeves I need - do I need only 3, two for the tie rod ends and only 1 for the Knuckle side of the Drag Link? Or when doing the flip am I supposed to drill out the pitman arm and flip the drag link to the top of that as well? My thought was to flip the tie rod on both ends, and then only flip the drag link on the knuckle side, leaving the other end mounted to the bottom of the Pitman arm. Is that correct?

Go For it Sleeves: http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

Teraflex: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...QaAu_tEALw_wcB

Aside from that, this looks pretty straight forward and between the new tie rods ends and this change, my steering should be better than it was before the accident when all is said and done.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

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post #2 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 08:36 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I'd wait for your new suspension to settle before making a decision on the flip. When I first installed my 2.5" YJ lift, I thought a draglink flip would be necessary. I decided to hold off for a while. After a few years, my suspension settled, and now my draglink is only about a 1/2" from parallel. If I did the flip now, it would put the draglink past parallel in the opposite direction.

Matt


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post #3 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Matt - that's interesting, and something I haven't considered. Since I am swapping what I have always assumed was a 2.5" lift (I have no idea what the PO actually installed) for a 2.5" lift, I figured the drag link to tie rod angle would be the same and it would still be necessary. Waiting makes sense, my only concern with that is my tie rod was so close to the top of the spring it seems like it would be impossible to get the tie rod off with the leaf springs installed down the road, so its the perfect time to do the flip.
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post #4 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 09:10 AM
jurgen24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PottsyCJ5 View Post

My other question is how many of these sleeves I need - do I need only 3, two for the tie rod ends and only 1 for the Knuckle side of the Drag Link? Or when doing the flip am I supposed to drill out the pitman arm and flip the drag link to the top of that as well? My thought was to flip the tie rod on both ends, and then only flip the drag link on the knuckle side, leaving the other end mounted to the bottom of the Pitman arm. Is that correct?



Go For it Sleeves: http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm



I used the Go For it Sleeves. Pretty easy to drill out the knuckle, then a tack weld to hold it in there. No changes for pitman arm end. The drag link uses 1 on the knuckle, tie rod uses 2. I only flipped the drag link, no real need to flip the tie rod, other than a bit more clearance from the rocks.



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post #5 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks man. How was shipping from Go For It - did it take a long time to receive the sleeves from them? I was a little nervous ordering from there after looking at the website.

I can get the Teraflex sleeves for a TJ shipped out today but I can't find info anywhere on whether or not the taper of the tie rod ends is the same for a TJ as a CJ.
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post #6 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 09:43 AM
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Did Goferit on dad's '7, shipping was quick on the parts. I would not hesitate to order from them again. I would do the tierod and the draglink both, get them up higher and makes changing the tierod ends much easier.

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post #7 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fourtrail, I appreciate the feedback on Go For It. If I do it, I definitely want to do both the tie rod and drag link. I do not like how close to the top of my leaf springs the Tie Rod is, and I would definitely appreciate them being easy to swap out down the road if needed. Taking the leaf springs off ain't fun work, and I don't want to do it again in the near future - would be nice if the tie rod was up out of the way for future swap outs or simple tie rod end replacements.
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post #8 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 10:16 AM
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No need to take the leaf spring off to pull the tierod end, if you put the floor jack under the side you are working on and lift that side of the axle up, the leaf will flatten out and give you more room to pull the tierod end out of the hole. Depending on how the leaf is arched, yes it can make pulling the tierod off a pain.

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post #9 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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That's good to know. I was replacing the suspension so the driver leaf is already off right now, but before I took it off I wasn't sure that tie rod end would have the clearance to come down out of the hole. Thanks for the tip.
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post #10 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 11:33 AM
STJP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'd wait for your new suspension to settle before making a decision on the flip. When I first installed my 2.5" YJ lift, I thought a draglink flip would be necessary. I decided to hold off for a while. After a few years, my suspension settled, and now my draglink is only about a 1/2" from parallel. If I did the flip now, it would put the draglink past parallel in the opposite direction.

Matt
Matt,

Do you think your 360 and winch have a bearing on suspension settling more? I don't know the relative weights of a 360 and a 258.

JAS
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post #11 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 11:35 AM
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I flipped both and run into some problems with the 2-1/2" flip.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/b...oblem-3835641/

If I just did the one, it would be no problem

Just something to think about.


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post #12 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
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Matt,

Do you think your 360 and winch have a bearing on suspension settling more? I don't know the relative weights of a 360 and a 258.

JAS
I'm sure the heavier V8 and 8274 winch had an impact on settling. I used the heavy 36R OME Yj springs all the way around for that reason.

My front has only settled 3/8-1/2" from when the springs were new 8 years ago, but it was enough to not need the draglink flip. Spring clearance upon compression hasn't been an issue for me, but I don't do any extreme wheeling with it.

Matt
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post #13 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thatís a good thread, John. Thanks for sharing. Got me rethinking the tie rod. Iím going to play around with the new drag link and tie rod and see how they line up once I get the new springs finished in the front. I only off road on dirt trails and fire roads so Iím not worried about rocks for the tie rod, steering geometry is my main concern.

Good advice here folks, thank you.


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post #14 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 01:37 PM
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Tie Rod Flip - Need some guidance

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
I flipped both and run into some problems with the 2-1/2" flip.



https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/b...oblem-3835641/



If I just did the one, it would be no problem



Just something to think about.

BTW, If the end of the pitman arm hits the top of tie rod that might be fixed with offset tie rod ends. It moves the tie rod 1Ē.


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post #15 of 45 Old 02-17-2020, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jurgen24 View Post
BTW, If the end of the pitman arm hits the top of tie rod that might be fixed with offset tie rod ends. It moves the tie rod 1Ē.


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I would see how close the tierod gets to the diff cover before swapping out ends to move it away from the draglink. most come almost right up against the cover and a set of offset ends may cause it to interfere and then you would loose turning radius. the tierod gets even closer if you have an aftermarket thicker diff cover. flipped tierod will normally put you high enough that you are on the more curved part of the cover, but just make sure before spending money on different rod ends.

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