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post #16 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
If you have a working rear axle it will run on highway, just a bit limited off road. Put it in 2 HI and it will work just fine. I see plenty of CJs with dodgy conversions running round in 2WD.

The carb is a relatively small task. I am time limited so I put a cheap $70 clone carb on my J20 so I can drive it whilst I find the time to do it properly.
What do you mean by clone carb? Where could I find one??

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post #17 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 04:10 AM
John Strenk
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That carb look like a Rochester 4bbl to me.



I see the idle control box is still tied into the harness so I bet a lot of the wiring can be reduced.


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post #18 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like a T15 and dana 20 transfer case. Both are pretty stout but were not offerred in 1981.

The 304 could be non-original. Have you found the date stamps on the inlet manifold casting? i am guessing late 70s to 1981 because I can just about see a Duraspark ignition. Are you sure it is a 304? There are raised numbers on the side of the block with the displacement. Common to put in a 360 from a Wagoneer.

Here are some basic diff cover pictures. You could figure the front one, should be Dana 30 but those wheels are a long way out. Do you have a pic of front of that axle? the driveshaft is missing which often means either the axle is bust or that it has a different ratio to rear, so before you hook it up you need to go inside each axle and check the exact number of teeth on the rings and pinions.

The stock carb is an MC2100, a well known and generally reliable motorcraft product. Try eBay for NOS or rebuilt, cheap new clones are rarely completely satisfactory. Looks like you have on on there already, can it be rebuilt? (Kits are $20 plus carb cleaner). If it came without an air filter, worth looking for a stock air cleaner.

If you post up the VIN plate we could have a go at deciphering it for engine and tranny, exact trim level is not listed there as many items were a dealer fit but there is data to be gleaned. The black mirrors suggest a low spec. More pics required
Front end looks like a 30 to me

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post #19 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
jchal3
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Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
Looks like a T15 and dana 20 transfer case. Both are pretty stout but were not offerred in 1981.

The 304 could be non-original. Have you found the date stamps on the inlet manifold casting? i am guessing late 70s to 1981 because I can just about see a Duraspark ignition. Are you sure it is a 304? There are raised numbers on the side of the block with the displacement. Common to put in a 360 from a Wagoneer.

Here are some basic diff cover pictures. You could figure the front one, should be Dana 30 but those wheels are a long way out. Do you have a pic of front of that axle? the driveshaft is missing which often means either the axle is bust or that it has a different ratio to rear, so before you hook it up you need to go inside each axle and check the exact number of teeth on the rings and pinions.

The stock carb is an MC2100, a well known and generally reliable motorcraft product. Try eBay for NOS or rebuilt, cheap new clones are rarely completely satisfactory. Looks like you have on on there already, can it be rebuilt? (Kits are $20 plus carb cleaner). If it came without an air filter, worth looking for a stock air cleaner.

If you post up the VIN plate we could have a go at deciphering it for engine and tranny, exact trim level is not listed there as many items were a dealer fit but there is data to be gleaned. The black mirrors suggest a low spec. More pics required
Here is the VIN

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post #20 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
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If you post up the VIN plate we could have a go at deciphering it for engine and tranny, exact trim level is not listed there as many items were a dealer fit but there is data to be gleaned. The black mirrors suggest a low spec. More pics required
It would be better if you posted the VIN plate by the master cylinder as was suggested by BagusJeep. There is more information about the vehicle there than just the VIN will tell us such as interior and paint color.
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post #21 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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I looked around and didnt see anything...is it stamped or a plate or a sticker? It has been repainted so it may be gone??

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post #22 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 03:59 PM
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Hoss

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post #23 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 06:50 PM
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Should look something like this, riveted to the firewall just beneath where the brake linkage comes through. The additional coding specifies trim, paint and seat types as I recall.

Hoover

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post #24 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Outstanding..thanks I'll give it a look..

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post #25 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Also..I'm getting ready to buy a carb...will a holley 470 truck avenger a good choice??

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post #26 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ohh I'm sure this will get entertaining haha

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post #27 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 07:41 PM
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Also..I'm getting ready to buy a carb...will a holley 470 truck avenger a good choice??

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I would check the bolt pattern bore pattern on the intake first.


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post #28 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I would check the bolt pattern bore pattern on the intake first.
If I call holley and ask will they be able to tell me? Is there variations to the bolt and bore patterns on an AMC 304?

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post #29 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 09:59 PM
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Also..I'm getting ready to buy a carb...will a holley 470 truck avenger a good choice??

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I would check the bolt pattern bore pattern on the intake first.

No, the 470 is too small. yes, that is what the calculator says for a 304, but that is at full throttle and low rpm and idle will suffer. the 670 if you want a truck avenger or a 600cfm edelbrock performer work good. best to pull the carb to see the intake pattern, it will be either spread bore or square bore. google pics of both and match to what your intake is when you get the carb removed.
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post #30 of 96 Old 09-12-2019, 10:37 PM
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What do you mean by clone carb? Where could I find one??

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ebay. Any Motorcraft 2100 described as "new" and some blurb about great manufacturing standards will be a Chicomm clone, knocked out of some workshop in China with little regard for tolerances or warranty. Often has no manufacturers name or serial number on it, because they do not want it back. Cheap copy that may work but will never be as good as the original. Pay about $70

If you find "NOS" then it is an old and dusty relic made by Motorcraft but never used. A quick rebuild and it will perform. Pay about $300

Rebuilt or reman may have been well done, probably not. There is a seller on ebay on which there are good reports, look up threads on the Forum. pay about $130

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