Team Rush upgrade, won't start! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
laredo1
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Team Rush upgrade, won't start!

I did the Team Rush upgrade. After which I was having trouble starting and rough idling. I only had 4 volts on the coil. I replaced the wire to the coil, which I assume was the resistor wire. (It was orange about 14 gauge)
After replacement, the CJ started and ran great, better than it ever has!
I did the upgrade about 2 months ago and probably have put 50 to 60 miles on the Jeep since.
Yesterday when gettting it out of the garage the battery was dead. (It had been setting for about 3 weeks.)
I charged the battery and it started. Drove it about 3 miles and stopped.
Had to jump the battery again. It was idling in the driveway.
I was away from it for about 5 minutes and when I returned it had died. I have not been able to get it started since.
After reading the forum, do I need the resistor wire? It would not work with it before. Did I fry the module? How do I check to see if the module is OK?

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post #2 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
laredo1
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UPdate

The wire spliced into the wire from the ignition switch to the stater solenoid is fryed. It got very hot!! I jumped around it and still won't start!
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 11:42 AM
gosupes
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Take the module down to the auto parts store and have it tested. Yes, the factory module needs the resistor wire, but you should have closer to 8 or 9 volts at the coil, not 4. You can also look into using a GM HEI module in place of the duraspark box and you won't need the resistor. Just attach it to a heat sink with some thermal compound and mount it over by the distrubitor somewhere. As for the wire getting fried, wire gauge might have been too small to handle the current.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
laredo1
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The wire gauge was stock, never changed it.
I had it tested at Advanced Auto, but didn't trust the guys test. So took it to NAPA and they confirmed it.
I have new module from NAPA now, but think I will reinstall the resistor wire before hooking up new module. That has to be what fried it!!

Information about installing the TFI coil states it must have 12 volts to operate properly. ???
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 01:48 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laredo1 View Post
The wire gauge was stock, never changed it.
I had it tested at Advanced Auto, but didn't trust the guys test. So took it to NAPA and they confirmed it.
I have new module from NAPA now, but think I will reinstall the resistor wire before hooking up new module. That has to be what fried it!!

Information about installing the TFI coil states it must have 12 volts to operate properly. ???
Then you need a different coil for the application. I have an Accel coil and when I contacted Accel, they said it would put out right on either voltage, but to keep the resistor wire for sure to avoid smoking out the module.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
laredo1
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Thanks Mike. Your info about testing the coil was very helpful.
Put the resistor wire back in the circuit and the CJ fired up. Been idlling about 5 minutes. Resistor wire is warm, but everything else seems OK.
I have 4.8 volts on the coil with key on and 8.5 volts while running at idle.

I got this ford coil off of a shelve in a garage of my buddies. It looks like the one in the TeamRush info but can't find a part number on it.

Do I need to get one of the part numbers mentioned in the info? This one was free and those cost $60.00!
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 04:27 PM
gosupes
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Jeephammer will usually steer you towards a local u-pull yard. I don't have any that are within 30 miles so I picked up a coil from Napa. Wasn't nowhere near $60. The 4.8 volts with the key on seems low like something is dragging it down.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
laredo1
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The resistor wire cuts it down to 4.8 volts. A regular wire delivers 12 volts.
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 07:04 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laredo1 View Post
Thanks Mike. Your info about testing the coil was very helpful.
Put the resistor wire back in the circuit and the CJ fired up. Been idlling about 5 minutes. Resistor wire is warm, but everything else seems OK.
I have 4.8 volts on the coil with key on and 8.5 volts while running at idle.

I got this ford coil off of a shelve in a garage of my buddies. It looks like the one in the TeamRush info but can't find a part number on it.

Do I need to get one of the part numbers mentioned in the info? This one was free and those cost $60.00!
Your voltage sounds right. I think your coil will fry soon running low voltage just because it says it wants more.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-20-2008, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
laredo1
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Anyone else running the TeamRush upgrade with a stock module using the resistor wire? What voltage to you have at the coil?
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-21-2008, 10:13 AM
gosupes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laredo1 View Post
The resistor wire cuts it down to 4.8 volts. A regular wire delivers 12 volts.
The resistor wire will knock it down from 12 to 8ish during the run cycle. Total resistance should be about 1.35 ohms. I have never heard of one that had less than 5 volts to the coil. Someone need to run outside with a meter and double check. I removed that junk long ago or else I would. You can also try to re-install your old coil and measure the voltage to see if there's a change.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-21-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
laredo1
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I drove appox 50 miles to trail ride today and 30 of that was expressway. Was on the trail for 3 hours. Towed a Willys with a toasted tranfer case about 25 highway miles after the ride. Then back home, 20 miles.
It ran fine all day. I just rechecked the voltage. With key on 5.1 volts and running 8.3 volts.
Installed original coil, 7.3 with key on and 9.6 running. Not idling very well with the old coil!! ( Why I did the upgrade!)
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-25-2008, 11:25 PM
ca angels
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i did the team rush upgrade with stock ignition module, i installed the cap, cap adapter, rotor, accel 8.0 spiral wires and new autolite copper plugs, original canister coil. it was getting late and i wanted to see if those new items would make a difference on idle. started, ran for 2 minutes then died, will not start again. the next morning, fabricated my mounting bracket for my new msd tfi coil, installed tfi coil. some hesitation on initial start-up but started, drove it around the block, runs a lot better on low rpms, idles better than before. engine starts great, specially when engine cold. when engine hot, is a different story, but i figured thats the bbd carb issue.

I also drilled out those pesky pick-up tubes to .032, that solve my 'engine dying while stopping' problem.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-26-2008, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laredo1 View Post
I had it tested at Advanced Auto, but didn't trust the guys test. So took it to NAPA and they confirmed it.
What 'IT' did you take to NAPA?

Quote:
I have new module from NAPA now, but think I will reinstall the resistor wire before hooking up new module. That has to be what fried it!!
The resistor wire is in your wiring harness and is 47" long...
Are you SURE you removed the resistor wire since the coil is only showing 4 volts?

Quote:
Information about installing the TFI coil states it must have 12 volts to operate properly. ???
Who's information?
I'm the one that developed this upgrade, and I've NEVER said to remove the resistor wire with an aftermarket module!

The resistor wire MUST be in place to keep the late model, cheap made import modules alive!
------------------------------

And before people jump on me for not reading the thread,
I know the guy is running again, and this is for the guys that are thinking about following the advice link the guy above did!

Just change the cap/rotor/plug wires, and if you care to, the coil/coil connector....
No need to mess with the resistor wire or module in most cases!

If you are going to use the HEI module or CDI module, you can bypass the resistor wire...
But if you are going to use the Factory DuraSpark module or discount store replacment module, KEEP THE RESISTOR WIRE!

REMEMBER,
'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it!
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