Spartan Locker Install - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
InjectedCJ7
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Spartan Locker Install

I'm getting ready to install a Spartan Locker in the front Dana 30 on my 78 CJ7. I want to try this set up, before deciding if I need to get a rear locker. My question is, has anyone used the Lube Locker gaskets on the Dana 30? They sound like a good option vs. RTV type sealants, but I wanted to see if anyone had any personal experience using them.

Thanks!
John

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post #2 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 08:54 AM
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They work great. Make sure the two surfaces are clean,and smooth.

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Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
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post #3 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 08:57 AM
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Although I can't speak for the gaskets, I also have a Spartan locker (still in the box) for my Dana 30. Would love to see some pictures and hear your thoughts on the install process.

Thanks,
Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
InjectedCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoover7 View Post
Although I can't speak for the gaskets, I also have a Spartan locker (still in the box) for my Dana 30. Would love to see some pictures and hear your thoughts on the install process.

Thanks,
Hoov
I'll be sure to take some pics, and share my thoughts!

John
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 02:44 PM
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I won't use anything but Lubelockers now. RTV is so yesteryear haha. I've got one on my D30 and my 8.25 Wire brush both surfaces clean they need to be clean and smooth. Bolt on and then you can reuse them over and over and over again. They're not that expensive either and worth it to me not to have to jack with RTV.
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-26-2019, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Update!

Iím happy to report that the Spartan locker project is moving along well. I bought a couple of tools I needed to disassemble the Dana 30, namely the axle nut socket and the hub puller adapter (attaches to a slide hammer with 1/2"-20 threads). About $45 for both, but without them, the job would be a lot more difficult. The disassembly was pretty straightforward, following the manual, and checking out a few YouTube videos. I checked the ring gear backlash before I removed it and it was OK, about 0.010Ē. The axle U-joints were looking pretty whipped, so I ordered a pair, due to arrive this Friday. I pressed out the old ones, and Iím in the process of cleaning up the shafts before reinstalling the new joints. Installing the Spartan locker in the carrier was probably the easiest part of the job, so far. The directions in the box are clear, and everything went together well. Next steps are to clean up the inside of the carrier housing and axle tubes, and install a new pair of inner axle tube seals, which arrived yesterday. With a little luck, I should be able to get it back together this weekend. Hereís a few pictures...




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Regards,
John
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-26-2019, 08:30 AM
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Wow. It’s so nice to see that you got the proper tool to remove the spindle from the knuckle.

Just some tips

I would scrap out the tubes as long as your doing everything else. I used a long piece of copper pipe, with a flat piece of metal bolted at the end that was bent over 90į and I ground an arch into it that match the same radius as the inside of the tubes. I’m able to insert it into the axle tubes and use it as a scraper to clean out all of the dirt and gunk. Then you can push a rag through as well. If not, you run the risk of pushing dirt past the seal and into the carrier. Use compressed air to blow it all out too.

A light smear of RTV on the outer rim of those seals helps too

But it looks like you got things covered.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
2012 JKUR RHD
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-26-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Wow. Itís so nice to see that you got the proper tool to remove the spindle from the knuckle.

Just some tips

I would scrap out the tubes as long as your doing everything else. I used a long piece of copper pipe, with a flat piece of metal bolted at the end that was bent over 90į and I ground an arch into it that match the same radius as the inside of the tubes. Iím able to insert it into the axle tubes and use it as a scraper to clean out all of the dirt and gunk. Then you can push a rag through as well. If not, you run the risk of pushing dirt past the seal and into the carrier. Use compressed air to blow it all out too.

A light smear of RTV on the outer rim of those seals helps too

But it looks like you got things covered.
Thanks Ed! Tips much appreciated. I started cleaning out the tubes using an aluminum yardstick as a scraper, followed by my small shop vac hose. I may fashion up something like you did to get at the gunk better. These pictures show the gunk in the tubes before I started cleaning them. I don't think they are too bad for a 78 CJ7, especially since I don't see any gear lube leaking out.

[IMG][/IMG]

Did you use any special technique to remove and install the axle seals? Can I just pry them out with a screwdriver, and tap them back in using a socket?

I was considering using a touch of RTV on the seal OD. It sounds like good insurance. I noticed that the new seal I.D. is noticeably smaller than the old seal (the package identifies the seal as the correct size). I'm guessing this is from the old seal taking a 'set' with age. Is there anything I can (should) do to protect the new seal lips when I shove the (somewhat sharp) splined end of the axle shaft through it?

Regards,
John
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-26-2019, 12:46 PM
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It should be cone shaped to "guide" the shaft into place.

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post #10 of 14 Old 10-05-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Update

Made good progress on the locker install today. Finished cleaning out the axle tubes and the inside of the differential housing. Installed the new inner axle seals, with a thin layer of ultra black RTV on the OD. Installed the carrier with the Spartan locker and torqued up the bearing caps. Checked the backlash, and it was right around 0.010Ē, so I called it good. Installed the axle shafts (with new Spicer U-joints), and torqued up the spindles, after cleaning and re-greasing the needle roller bearings. Installed the diff cover with the new Lube Locker gasket, and filled the diff with new Valvoline 80W-90 gear lube. Was getting ready to install the rotors when I discovered that one of the locking hub bolts was broken off in the rotor. When I took it apart, I realized that one of the bolts was missing, and a couple of them were loose, but I didnít notice that one was broken. So, I decided to pull the seals out of the rotors, so I can clean and repack the bearings, after I drill out the broken bolt. Looks like my Sunday wonít be a ďday of restĒ... Iíll add some pictures soon.

Regards,
John
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post #11 of 14 Old 10-05-2019, 07:19 PM
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Awesome- Thanks for the update, and look forward to seeing some pics!


Hoov

82 CJ7 Laredo Ltd, 258, T5, frame off resto/rebuild planned
83 CJ8 Scrambler, 360, T176, EFI, in progress
84 CJ7 Renegade, 258, T5, Weber 38, Cliffordized, Borla headers
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-07-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InjectedCJ7 View Post
Made good progress on the locker install today. Finished cleaning out the axle tubes and the inside of the differential housing. Installed the new inner axle seals, with a thin layer of ultra black RTV on the OD. Installed the carrier with the Spartan locker and torqued up the bearing caps. Checked the backlash, and it was right around 0.010Ē, so I called it good. Installed the axle shafts (with new Spicer U-joints), and torqued up the spindles, after cleaning and re-greasing the needle roller bearings. Installed the diff cover with the new Lube Locker gasket, and filled the diff with new Valvoline 80W-90 gear lube. Was getting ready to install the rotors when I discovered that one of the locking hub bolts was broken off in the rotor. When I took it apart, I realized that one of the bolts was missing, and a couple of them were loose, but I didnít notice that one was broken. So, I decided to pull the seals out of the rotors, so I can clean and repack the bearings, after I drill out the broken bolt. Looks like my Sunday wonít be a ďday of restĒ... Iíll add some pictures soon.

Regards,
John
I got the broken hub mounting bolt removed, not too difficult. While I was in there, I discovered that the driver side inner tapered wheel bearing felt a bit rough, so I ordered a replacement - should arrive soon. Anyway, here are a few pictures from my weekend fun. Should be back on the road by the end of the week.

Regards,
John











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post #13 of 14 Old 10-29-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Update!

I've been hard at work on the Jeep since my last update. It seemed like I was just about done, but you know how that goes... While under the Jeep, I noticed that the driver side motor mount had loosened up and pulled away from the block. I knew the bottom bolt was broken off when I bought the Jeep, but I figured I'd get around to fixing it 'one of these days'. Well, that day arrived... I drilled out the bolt most of the way, then decided to try an expensive bolt extractor kit from work (not an Easy Out). This kit uses hardened spline bits that you drive into the proper size hole, and then a hex adapter slides over it, and you turn it out with a wrench. Sounded good in principle, but the remaining bolt section wouldn't budge, and against my better judgement, I kept twisting until 'SNAP', you guessed it, I broke off the hardened spline in the bolt... After a few choice words, which can't be repeated here, I got a couple of carbide burrs and proceeded to grind out the broken bit. It took a few hours, but eventually I removed all traces of the bit. By this time, the original threads were partially ground away, so I drilled it out to the next largest size (7/16"-20) and tapped the hole. I replaced all the motor mount bolts with Grade 8 bolts, and tightened it all up.

At this point I noticed that the motor mount and frame mount holes were not lined up properly, and in order to get them lined up, I had to do a fair amount of modification to the mount and slight elongation of the skid plate/trans mount bolt holes. Once this was all done, I installed new rubber motor mounts and tightened everything up.

I got the Jeep all put back together late last week, just in time to take it to the 2019 Jeep Creep in Gladwin, Michigan, to try it out.

The motor mount work was a big success, as the pesky vibrations I was feeling on the road were all but gone. I trailered it up to Gladwin (about 2.5 hours away), and then we drove about a half hour on the road to get to the trail ride along the power lines. A group of about 12 Jeeps went on the ride, which lasted about 3 hours, mostly in sandy trails following the power lines. A few descent hills, but not too severe. The Spartan locker worked great. I had no trouble whatsoever crawling around. I need a few more trips on the trails and dunes to give it a proper evaluation, but so far, so good! Here's a few pictures from the event. There were about 700 Jeeps there, and quite a few vendors. They did Trick or Treat for the kids, and most of the people decorated their Jeeps. It was a lot of fun!

Regards,
John

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post #14 of 14 Old 10-29-2019, 10:26 PM
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Nice write up! Love the Costumes on the Jeep.

'86 CJ7, 258, Carter BBD, Nutter'ed, TeamRush'ed, T-18, Twin Sticked Dana 300, D30 Frt-Pwr Lok L/S-4.10, AMC 20 Rear-Mosers-Detroit Locker-4.10, 2.5 BDS Lift, 1" Body Lift, 33" Wild Country M/Ts, Black Spoke wheels

'45 CJ2A, L134 Go Devil, T-90 Tranny, Warn O/D, T-18 T-Case, Dana 25 Frt, Dana 41 Rear, 531st CJ made

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