Should I replace door glass seal ? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-15-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Should I replace door glass seal ?

I've been working on my full hard doors. Messing with the first one got a little ugly from binding when trying to crank up the window with the new glass edge seals I put in. My other door's seals are still in the door and I'm wondering if it's worth it to replace . They're dry and thinned out some but I dont know if it's worth it. What do you think ?


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-15-2019, 09:06 PM
87MJTim
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I just replace ALL the seals on my doors. Its a little harder to close the windows. I would recommend you replace them on the second door.

Tim

87 Comanche, 4.0, AX15 (formerly BA10/5), D44
84 CJ7, 4.0 (93 XJ) AX15 (Formerly T5)
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post #3 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MJTim View Post
I just replace ALL the seals on my doors. Its a little harder to close the windows. I would recommend you replace them on the second door.
Why do you say so ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 01:15 PM
WJ60
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Seals are there to prevent water from getting into the door interior. If the seal has degraded then rust could be in your future, as well as damage to components. New seals will break in fairly quick so it's wise to install them as needed.
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post #5 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ60 View Post
Seals are there to prevent water from getting into the door interior. If the seal has degraded then rust could be in your future, as well as damage to components. New seals will break in fairly quick so it's wise to install them as needed.
The doors have gaps in the bottom where water can get out. What do the seals do for sealing out the cold outside or sealing in the a/c in the summer ? Is that negligible ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 03:57 PM
87MJTim
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More water getting inside is not good. As WJ60 says, the seals breakdown and the pieces can clog the drain holes. The water now collects inside and rusts out the door. My point was if youíre going to trouble to change one, change them all.

Tim

87 Comanche, 4.0, AX15 (formerly BA10/5), D44
84 CJ7, 4.0 (93 XJ) AX15 (Formerly T5)
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MJTim View Post
More water getting inside is not good. As WJ60 says, the seals breakdown and the pieces can clog the drain holes. The water now collects inside and rusts out the door. My point was if you’re going to trouble to change one, change them all.
Ok. I have the seals taken out as we speak. I'll follow up if I have trouble again

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #8 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 05:48 PM
WJ60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
The doors have gaps in the bottom where water can get out. What do the seals do for sealing out the cold outside or sealing in the a/c in the summer ? Is that negligible ?

There are penetrations made for water to drain but so far as cold or hot air entering the the vehicle thru the doors is prevented by a barrier between the door panel and the door. I'm including a picture of one of my doors that I added that barrier to as it had been removed by a PO.
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post #9 of 17 Old 11-16-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I hate resealing the hard doors. Yet again the window is binding on the seal. The seal doesnt sit in there even either

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-17-2019, 09:24 AM
Axhammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I hate resealing the hard doors. Yet again the window is binding on the seal. The seal doesnt sit in there even either
What brand are the glass seals you are installing on your steel doors? Did you replace both inner and outer? Iíve had problems with aftermarket seals and weatherstripping on cars over the years. They are never as nice as the OEM parts were.

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post #11 of 17 Old 11-17-2019, 09:34 AM
Axhammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ60 View Post
There are penetrations made for water to drain but so far as cold or hot air entering the the vehicle thru the doors is prevented by a barrier between the door panel and the door. I'm including a picture of one of my doors that I added that barrier to as it had been removed by a PO.
I like that idea. That vinyl barrier is thicker than the plastic sheet from the factory, so as long as the panel still goes on OK, Iím thinking thatís the way to go.

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post #12 of 17 Old 11-17-2019, 10:57 AM
WJ60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
I like that idea. That vinyl barrier is thicker than the plastic sheet from the factory, so as long as the panel still goes on OK, Iím thinking thatís the way to go.

The panel actually fit the door tighter with the new material than it does with the original. I ended up installing it in all the other doors and the rear hatch. I used 3M double sided tape as opposed to the adhesive the factory used. The previous picture shows the liner being installed with the adhesive but it was a pain so I stripped it off and used the tape.
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Last edited by WJ60; 11-17-2019 at 11:07 AM. Reason: additional info
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post #13 of 17 Old 11-17-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I hate resealing the hard doors. Yet again the window is binding on the seal. The seal doesnt sit in there even either
What brand are the glass seals you are installing on your steel doors? Did you replace both inner and outer? I’ve had problems with aftermarket seals and weatherstripping on cars over the years. They are never as nice as the OEM parts were.
I'm using crown or omix

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #14 of 17 Old 11-21-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I finally git the sesl installed and it working. This new seal I just go in was a lot thicker (same brand crown) and harder to put in but once I got it all in it was pretty nice. I think the seal was my problem and probably on the other door too. I need s new handle rod clip and then I'll be done . Shew

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #15 of 17 Old 11-22-2019, 01:36 AM
MetalMountainGoat
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I just rebuilt my doors with a Fairchild industries kit. The windows were super hard to roll up and down at first, but after spraying the seals with some windex, and rolling the window up and down about 10 times, they loosened up. They are still tighter than before, but there is defiintely no water or air getting through them.
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