RRO OME yj conversion...start with axle shims - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 33 Old 05-03-2020, 07:39 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Make your life easy and just buy a set of 4 degree shims.

Castor angle spec is a range, not a hard fast number. 0.5 degrees over the factory spec isn't going to hurt a thing, and will probably make your CJ handle even better.

Remember, as springs wear and sag, castor angle is reduced. So, starting a little high on castor is a good move.

Matt



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post #32 of 33 Old 10-17-2020, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
Techlight
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Update to Thread

So it's been awhile since I updated this thread. Life's been busy and haven't had as much time to work on the Jeep. That being said ...

It turns out the information I was given about the shims being 1.5 degrees and being verified through ARB was incorrect. They were actually 3 degree shims. How do I know this? I ordered 3 degree shims and installed them. I had the exact same caster readings ...which was frustrating. I hate it when I try to do my research and get advice and then "make an educated decision" and then come to realize that while well intention'd, I was probably just over thinking it.

In the end I ordered a pair of 4 degree shims and had my caster checked. It's dead at 6 degrees which is where it's supposed to be (all my caster readings were taken at an alignment shop). I did want it higher but it's in specs so whatever.

So 6 degrees is good. However I still have "steering issues". The jeep doesn't return to center and its still kind of "twitchy"...by that I mean it feels like it wants to dart around sometimes. I only have the darting problem at higher speeds (above 45ish). And if I make the slightest correction it's almost like I'm overcorrecting it when I'm not. It's not horrible, but it's not comfortable either...

Here's what I've done to the steering components thus far:
-installed rebuilt steering box
-no cracks or loose bolts on the steering mount (checked it all when I did the lift)
-rebuilt steering column (replaced all the bearings and such on the engine side with a kit
-replaced stock steering shaft with a rugged ridge u jointed one (so no slop in that stupid bell attachment)
-all new joints at the tie rod and drag link
-new drag link and tie rod (tie rod was already bent so why not)

Here's what I haven't done that's next (any suggestions would be most welcome). I don't need it do drive like a new car, but I want it to drive well enough that I feel safe letting my fiance drive it without worrying that its unsafe

-check or change front axle u joints (advice on how to diagnose/check would be great)
-service and check front bearings
-add air to tires and see if it drives better (information on why below)
-reconnect sway bar (I can't find my damn disconnects in my garage though so they'll be stock
-dump a can of gasoline on it and light it on fire

When I had the caster checked last they aired the tires up to 30psi...I noticed it drives slightly better. It may be in my head but I figured what the hell. I usually run my tires at about 26-28 because I read to many contact "treading" threads haha. But I'll bring it up to 35 and see if I notice anything. At least its a straw to grasp at for sure.
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post #33 of 33 Old 10-18-2020, 11:32 AM
gutthans
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Having said earlier, like Matt1981CJ7, "4* is the ticket" , I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that lower tire pressures will be more sluggish in response because of the bending of the sidewalls. Higher pressures may offer an initially better response 'feel', but at the risk of reduced road grip at high(er) speeds? Just experiment with YOUR 'sweet spot'. Is the returning to center affected by your pressure or toe-in at all?
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