Replaced My Isolator Clip on Shifter; '86 CJ7 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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Replaced My Isolator Clip on Shifter; '86 CJ7

recently I replaced my Isolator Clip on my '86 CJ7 (first pic below). it goes on the bottom end of the shifter once removed from the top of the transmission.

there was a lot of play in my shifter (about 1 - 2"), but now after replacing this Clip I have MORE play (like 6" of play; shifter knob almost hits the dash in 1st, 3rd & 5th gears; and the centre console in 2nd, 4th & Reverse gears) than I had before changing that Isolator Clip.

before replacing it, I had added a shim made out of aluminum inside my old Isolator Clip (second pic below; looks same) just to take the play out for the last couple or few years. it appears I may have to put the homemade shims back in to remove this play unless anybody has a better suggestion, or answer to this "play" problem.

I would appreciate any heads up or answers to remove this amount of play in the shifter.
screenshot_20200122-190648.jpg20200122_185445.jpg

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 06:52 PM
keith460
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There's a piece of plastic you fold in place under the Isolator, don't forget that too.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
0hcanada
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ahhhh; Shifter Isolator. wasn't aware, and wasn't told. shoulda come here first you check it out but I thought I was ok ordering the Isolator Clip straight after looking at my shifter. only reason I didn't order that piece is because I didn't see one upon removing my shifter. curious why I didn't have one to begin with.

thx. will be ordering it now.

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-22-2020, 07:34 PM
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You had one. It just disintegrated and fell apart. While you’re there, go ahead and inspect the rubber boot on top of the transmission because if it is split at the top like a lot of them are, you might be getting water in the transmission as you go down wet streets.

Ed
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-23-2020, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
While you’re there, go ahead and inspect the rubber boot on top of the transmission because if it is split at the top like a lot of them are, you might be getting water in the transmission as you go down wet streets.

That's true but, unfortunately the only ones you can get for a replacement are made by Crown and Crown rubber products are the worst. It will split apart within month's of installing it.
You can prolong the life of their rubber products by simply applying petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to the rubber products thoroughly. The rubber they use in manufacturing is cheap Chinese, lack of oil, rubber.

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post #6 of 12 Old 01-23-2020, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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thx for the heads up.

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 10:30 AM
NormWild
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You are better off drilling two holes through the shifter handle and shifter nub and running some bolts through. Use lock washers and crank them down super tight. The stock design is horrible and will just wear out again in a few months.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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that's actually a thought. can always tighten up again if it loosens, which it shouldn't.

is the nub accessible enough to drill holes through? pretty tight area.

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-27-2020, 09:16 PM
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I did a similar fix, I tack-welded a slim nut to two sides (at 12 and 3 o'clock, for example), and drilled a small hole through the shfter handle only- then used an Allen head set screw.

That way, I could take it on/ off, but didn't have to drill anything on the trans itself.

Hoss

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-28-2020, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NormWild View Post
You are better off drilling two holes through the shifter handle and shifter nub and running some bolts through. Use lock washers and crank them down super tight. The stock design is horrible and will just wear out again in a few months.

I disagree with that. My stock shifter only needed a new isolator clip and plastic insert once in its life @ 85,000 miles. I still use the stock setup and now have 110,000 miles and it is solid.
If you let it go to long, without replacing worn parts, then the base of the shift lever will start to flare and make it seem like it has more slop. Fix that by squeezing it back into the square shape it was by means of shop press or vise.

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post #11 of 12 Old 01-28-2020, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
I disagree with that. My stock shifter only needed a new isolator clip and plastic insert once in its life @ 85,000 miles. I still use the stock setup and now have 110,000 miles and it is solid.
If you let it go to long, without replacing worn parts, then the base of the shift lever will start to flare and make it seem like it has more slop. Fix that by squeezing it back into the square shape it was by means of shop press or vise.
I find it very hard to believe that you have ZERO free play in your shifter handle. To each there own, I saw no benefit to sticking with the factory set up, which is a silly design.

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post #12 of 12 Old 01-28-2020, 05:28 PM
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With a new isolator, mine fit so tight that I rotated my metal clip 90 degrees and installed it so there was no lock tabs in play. Light grease smear and tapped it down in place with a box end wrench and hammer. Rock solid. Zero play. I’ve replace several on various T4/ T5 CJs and a few needed the shifter base squared back up. Makes all the difference.
On one hunting camp jeep I sold, I did drill two holes each on two of the sides and tach welded nuts and used set screws. I only did that because I was in a hurry. It worked, but was rigged.

Ed
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