Rebuilding 3 tilt Columns at once. Got a bunch of questions...assistance appreciated. - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 04:22 PM
John Strenk
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I am sure it could be depending on thickness. Seems to me it would be much easier to bend metal then shape abs on the plastic switch with heat.

Are you wondering if the metal might interfere with the contacts?
No, I was going to print it with ABS.
Just wondering if it will be strong enough.



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post #32 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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I keep forgetting that everyone but me has a 3D printer. Going to have to change that soon.
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post #33 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 08:22 PM
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You and me both But I do have a lathe and a nice selection of tools at home.

I think this part would be better made out of metal anyway.

Have you tried cutting one out using your pattern?

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I keep forgetting that everyone but me has a 3D printer. Going to have to change that soon.
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post #34 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, it fits pretty well. The hole location is definitely wrong but the outside shape fits. I will make 3 of them next week when I go out to the shop.
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post #35 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 09:21 PM
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Are you going to revise your pdf file when you get the hole location worked out?

Why does it need 2 holes? I know one is for the screw.

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yeah, it fits pretty well. The hole location is definitely wrong but the outside shape fits. I will make 3 of them next week when I go out to the shop.
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post #36 of 96 Old 04-18-2020, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Are you going to revise your pdf file when you get the hole location worked out?

Why does it need 2 holes? I know one is for the screw.
The larger hole is for the part that attaches the 2 plastic switch pieces together so you can get to the tab release and the smaller one is for the lever screw. They are for representation only. This is just done by eye in illustrator. Not an accurate cad drawing (again not an engineer)

The positioning will vary based on the thickness of material you use and the ability to fold the tabs. My suggestion is to make the part, fold the tabs then flip it over and mark the center of the holes based on fitment. Then drill out.
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post #37 of 96 Old 04-18-2020, 11:44 AM
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Hmmm.. The YJ turn signal switch is a little mote, shall we say ...Difficult?

It has a little arm that screws into the normal place the CJ lever arm attaches.

yj-turn-signal-arm.jpg

It connects to another arm that the combination TS,High beam, delay wiper arm attaches.

yj-arm-mount.jpg

yj-arm-hole.jpg

It never actually is connected to the turn signal arm.

The little arm actually goes over the the TS switch before it drops into the slot:

yj-turnsignal-mount.jpg

This could lead to some clearance issues:

yj-armclearance.jpg

yjarmalmosttopview.jpg

yuarmclearancetopview.jpg

But since the switch never sees the level of force the CJ switch sees, I may just leave it alone.

But If I had to i might look something like this:
yjbrace.jpg

Clearance is really hard between the yellow lines.


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post #38 of 96 Old 04-18-2020, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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dang John. That is an engineering mess. Looks like they wanted to reinforce the place but forgot to actual do what was needed. I think you are on the right path.
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post #39 of 96 Old 04-18-2020, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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So i built my first plate using the template. It came out just fine. I used .032 Aluminum.

I printed out the template and spray mounted it to the metal. Went at it with my dremel and sander. And this is what I got. I think it will work.

Observations of the build from the file:

1 - Each one of the 3 columns has a slightly different sizing for the plastic piece. The file is built off the new Dorman replacement part above. When I went to see the fit on the OEM original and the third, they were slightly off both in tab folds and hole position. So make sure you just get the general shape and then fit it to your application.

2 - I flipped the design so I could spraymount to the bottom of the metal so I would not have to worry about cleaning it all off.

3 - I have not drilled the large hole as I am still trying to find center and every adjustment changes that position.

4 - The dorman replacment part is really tight at the point of entry for the turn signal lever. Expect to do some grinding to get it so sit flush.
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post #40 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 09:49 AM
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I have read and followed this thread. Don't know if these two steering column resources were mentioned.

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/

http://www.columnsgalore.com/index.htm
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post #41 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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I have read and followed this thread. Don't know if these two steering column resources were mentioned.

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/

http://www.columnsgalore.com/index.htm
yes. Have looked them over. They want $200 for the Lower tilt shroud (which I need to replace). I bought a complete almost nos replacement for $190 + shipping 2 weeks ago on ebay. So their pricing is not close to reasonable. Thanks for following the thread. More to come.
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post #42 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Speaking of parts I still need to acquire. I am looking for a complete Lower tilt shroud to replace the broken one in my original. I found an aftermarket replacement but it does not look 100% correct.

Would love to find a used replacement somehow.
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post #43 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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And installed for column #3.
(Remember this one was almost nos and only needed the lock cylinder and the upper section of the switch replaced.)

Time to reassemble the top section now.
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post #44 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 02:48 PM
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If you still have it apart, can you use the finished bracket to adjust your PDF file? Lay the bracket on the printed out image and mark the center of the holes. They you could move the crosshairs in the file to match the exact drill points.

When I make the bracket, I do not have to remove the switch.
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post #45 of 96 Old 04-19-2020, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
If you still have it apart, can you use the finished bracket to adjust your PDF file? Lay the bracket on the printed out image and mark the center of the holes. They you could move the crosshairs in the file to match the exact drill points.

When I make the bracket, I do not have to remove the switch.
I have three columns and each switch piece is slight different in size and position. Maybe it is that the plastic has shrunk on the older one, or the latter mold naturally expanded with more blanks or the new dorman part is just a universal mold.

It is easy using the template but you are still going to have to remove the steering plate no matter what. So cut the outside shape in metal using the template, pull your wiring forward, unclip your top plastic on the switch and then bend the tabs so it fits your exact part. This will also give you a chance to add some new dielectric grease into the contact points for better conduction and smoother action. Nothing is universal in a jeep world especially a hand drawn template.
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