Rebuilding 3 tilt Columns at once. Got a bunch of questions...assistance appreciated. - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
 26Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16 of 96 Old 04-14-2020, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolff eng View Post
On Ebay, search "CAMARO STEERING COLUMN LOCK PLATE COVER GM". This forum won't allow me to post links yet. $19 + shipping
hey. I just bought your column end bearing setup last night.

I also sent you a message on FB today. John S. and I were just pondering about a part that needs to be made just like your end. If you get some free time: How about using those amazing engineering skills and come up with a sealed bearings kit for the upper tilt in the Saginaw steering columns? With that sort of addition, they might be almost bombproof.

weapon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 96 Old 04-14-2020, 05:26 PM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 21,150
Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon View Post
One of the bonuses about working on 3 column at once is that items break in differently in each and you can use the parts to combine into one fully working part. Since I have on order 2 new crown Turn signal switches (just in case), I went about eliminating the parts that are broken or brittle or unusable from the old switches.

Upon inspection, I noticed that 2 of the switches had broken plastics at the turn signal switch attachment. Dorman part #49300 (about $10) will replace just the top section. I transplanted all of the best parts from the old to combine to make a renewed part. Pretty simple but save me at least $20+.

One question: During final reassembly, do I add dialectic grease to the locations of the dual arrows in image 3?
img_3088.jpg

Most certainly YES!
weapon likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
John Strenk is offline  
post #18 of 96 Old 04-14-2020, 09:17 PM
StoneTower
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fair Oaks
Posts: 1,772
Can that Dorman part #49300 be installed while the switch is still installed in the column? Mine is broken and I dimpled the plastic and epoxied an aluminum plate over the crack. It lasted about 3 years but has broken free again. I see some people (Jim being one of them) have made a little metal bracket to hold the crack shut which basically fixes the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon View Post
One of the bonuses about working on 3 column at once is that items break in differently in each and you can use the parts to combine into one fully working part. Since I have on order 2 new crown Turn signal switches (just in case), I went about eliminating the parts that are broken or brittle or unusable from the old switches.

Upon inspection, I noticed that 2 of the switches had broken plastics at the turn signal switch attachment. Dorman part #49300 (about $10) will replace just the top section. I transplanted all of the best parts from the old to combine to make a renewed part. Pretty simple but save me at least $20+.

One question: During final reassembly, do I add dialectic grease to the locations of the dual arrows in image 3?
StoneTower is offline  
 
post #19 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
Can that Dorman part #49300 be installed while the switch is still installed in the column? Mine is broken and I dimpled the plastic and epoxied an aluminum plate over the crack. It lasted about 3 years but has broken free again. I see some people (Jim being one of them) have made a little metal bracket to hold the crack shut which basically fixes the problem.
Just a very minimal breakdown needed to replace the part. Can easily be done while still in jeep. Remove the wheel and parts until you can access the plastics, disconnect the wiring and pull it forward. Switch out part.

Can you point me to this thread on the metal bracket? I was just contemplating this exact fix this morning. I want to make it the last time i ever have to rebuild the column.

This part should be made partially out of metal or a more durable plastic. if I had a 3d scanner, I would work on a permanent replacement part.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_3093.jpg  
weapon is offline  
post #20 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 10:01 AM
StoneTower
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fair Oaks
Posts: 1,772
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/j.../index281.html

Post #4206

I wish someone would put together a template in (1 to 1 size) a PDF file that could be printed out on a printer and glued to a piece of metal and cut out. It would take all the guess work out of it. I needed a lug pattern template for a tire carrier I was modifying some time back and someone was kind enough to forward a PDF template to me. It worked great.


On the plastic part of the switch... is there anything that attaches that part to the lower part of the switch or does it just pull out when the pivot screw is removed? Do you even have to pull the switch forward?

I have taken several columns apart but it has been some time and I did not look that closely at the switch. I am very capable of the repair I am just feeling lazy


Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon View Post
Just a very minimal breakdown needed to replace the part. Can easily be done while still in jeep. Remove the wheel and parts until you can access the plastics, disconnect the wiring and pull it forward. Switch out part.

Can you point me to this thread on the metal bracket? I was just contemplating this exact fix this morning. I want to make it the last time i ever have to rebuild the column.

This part should be made partially out of metal or a more durable plastic. if I had a 3d scanner, I would work on a permanent replacement part.
StoneTower is offline  
post #21 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/j.../index281.html

Post #4206

I wish someone would put together a template in (1 to 1 size) a PDF file that could be printed out on a printer and glued to a piece of metal and cut out. It would take all the guess work out of it. I needed a lug pattern template for a tire carrier I was modifying some time back and someone was kind enough to forward a PDF template to me. It worked great.


On the plastic part of the switch... is there anything that attaches that part to the lower part of the switch or does it just pull out when the pivot screw is removed? Do you even have to pull the switch forward?

I have taken several columns apart but it has been some time and I did not look that closely at the switch. I am very capable of the repair I am just feeling lazy
That is not what I was thinking. That will stabilize lateral movement but does not address the other problem of reinforcing the plastic. The crack in my photo is from the natural up/down movement not from pushing/pulling.

i will work on it and make a template, then convert it over to a 1 to 1 pdf. (something else to do to take up time while I am at home due to the lockdown)
weapon is offline  
post #22 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/j.../index281.html

On the plastic part of the switch... is there anything that attaches that part to the lower part of the switch or does it just pull out when the pivot screw is removed? Do you even have to pull the switch forward?
2 tabs and the pivot release tab, then it just comes apart.
weapon is offline  
post #23 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 10:55 AM
StoneTower
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fair Oaks
Posts: 1,772
I think most of those plastic parts break in the screw area from the spreading force that the lever introduces. They bracket Jim and the other guy made contains this spreading force and should prevent that crack or make a cracked part usable.

I know when I had my column apart last time to fix the key rack and pinion, I could see the crack separate as I would move the lever.
StoneTower is offline  
post #24 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
I think most of those plastic parts break in the screw area from the spreading force that the lever introduces. They bracket Jim and the other guy made contains this spreading force and should prevent that crack or make a cracked part usable.

I know when I had my column apart last time to fix the key rack and pinion, I could see the crack separate as I would move the lever.
they don't show how the screw mounts. With the plate they have to use a longer screw to reach top to bottom. Did they add a spacer?
weapon is offline  
post #25 of 96 Old 04-15-2020, 11:14 AM
StoneTower
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fair Oaks
Posts: 1,772
Ask Jim in this thread...he does not bite

When I added the aluminum spacer that I epoxied under the lever, I was able to use the same screw.

In reference to the bracket, I think the lever acts as a spacer and make the top of the lever level with the top of the plastic. I could be wrong as it has been about 3 years since I was inside the column.

Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon View Post
they don't show how the screw mounts. With the plate they have to use a longer screw to reach top to bottom. Did they add a spacer?
StoneTower is offline  
post #26 of 96 Old 04-16-2020, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
Ask Jim in this thread...he does not bite

When I added the aluminum spacer that I epoxied under the lever, I was able to use the same screw.

In reference to the bracket, I think the lever acts as a spacer and make the top of the lever level with the top of the plastic. I could be wrong as it has been about 3 years since I was inside the column.
My bad. I did not look at it well enough. The only space in the crevice is behind the lever so that top plate will work.
weapon is offline  
post #27 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneTower View Post
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/j.../index281.html

Post #4206

I wish someone would put together a template in (1 to 1 size) a PDF file that could be printed out on a printer and glued to a piece of metal and cut out. It would take all the guess work out of it. I needed a lug pattern template for a tire carrier I was modifying some time back and someone was kind enough to forward a PDF template to me. It worked great.
Worked on the template using Jim1611's thread. I simplified it so there were only 2 curves in the design, no welding. Just scroll saw and hammering on the anvil. Due to the possible varying of thickness in users material, the folds (red dashed lines) will need to be adjusted for your use. I used some thin cardstock for my paper template. The holes are only representative of the actual location. You should make the piece and then flip the part over and use an awl or punch to get your actual center before drilling. I have attached a 1to1 .pdf and hi res jpeg. It should get you 90% to the end result and alleviate the turn lever stress on the plastic.

If anyone has input for improvements, I am all ears. Not an engineer. ha
Attached Thumbnails
Saginaw turn switch plate.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Saginaw turn switch plate.pdf (280.1 KB, 8 views)
weapon is offline  
post #28 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 02:47 PM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 21,150
I wonder if ABS would be strong enough...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I drive a Prius to save money and buy more Jeep Parts....
John Strenk is offline  
post #29 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
weapon
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: potland
Posts: 665
I am sure it could be depending on thickness. Seems to me it would be much easier to bend metal then shape abs on the plastic switch with heat.

Are you wondering if the metal might interfere with the contacts?
weapon is offline  
post #30 of 96 Old 04-17-2020, 03:58 PM
StoneTower
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Fair Oaks
Posts: 1,772
It works for Jim and the other guy that made the first one. If it is truly a 1 to 1 PDF it is easy to print out and glue to a piece of sheet metal and use an angle grinder and a drill to make. I would say 18 gauge would be thick enough.
StoneTower is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome