Rear D-ring mounts - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
Nick4320
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Rear D-ring mounts

Im looking for D-ring mounts that will bolt up to where the bumperettes currently bolt to, and for the life of me i can not find them for sale anywhere. Currently its not in my budget to get a good rear bump/tire carrier, altho its needed, whats more needed is a strong tow point. My plan is to also add on the rear cross member frame tie ins to increase strength as well.

So far all i can find are these, but they are for a TJ, what are the chances that these will bolt up well to the CJ, or how much modifying would they need to bolt up?

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 12:23 PM
JEEPFELLER
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"D RINGS"????

I've always heard 'em called "Shackles"

A "D RING" looks like a "D"

See if something in here makes your cylinders fire!

https://www.google.com/search?q=shac...&bih=927&dpr=1

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post #3 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
"D RINGS"????

I've always heard 'em called "Shackles"

A "D RING" looks like a "D"

See if something in here makes your cylinders fire!

https://www.google.com/search?q=shac...&bih=927&dpr=1

------JEEPFELLER
They are sometimes called D shackles or even called D-clevis but when you google D shackle mount all that pops up are leaf spring shackle mounts. Maybe im not searching for the right thing, hence why im hear asking, and even added an example so others may understand
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 01:26 PM
John Strenk
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Looks like a "D"?





Jim on here made a TJ bumper lately. Maybe you could ask him the bolt pattern

You could just drill your own holes and put a brace behind it.


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post #5 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 03:33 PM
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OK,

"Clevis" is used sometimes as the nomenclature---I think "Shackle" is the norm around here!

Weld on / Bolt on????

Look this over.

https://www.google.com/search?q=weld...&bih=927&dpr=1

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 03:39 PM
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Probably not what you are looking for, but it’s not a bad option.

It looks like it is designed to bolt to your existing cross member. It also mentions you can replace your cross member with it, but that would require cutting off the old, and welding in the new cross member.

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post #7 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 04:56 PM
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Whatever you end up buying and installing, it will need to tie into the frame rails. The rear cross member is not strong enough to be the only attach point for a bumper, or a recovery point.



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post #8 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 05:50 PM
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If you ae going to actually use the rear crossmember as an anchor for shackles.

.....and pull on them using a chain/ strap/ etc. attached to another vehicle.

You will definitely have to install "L" brackets off of the side of the frame and behind the shackle mounts to reinforce them,

Or

Add a stronger bumper or something, also reinforced to the frame.

When I was in the Army Ranger Battalion and driving my Jeep #2, I went for a dirt road ride and found a jar head that had driven his truck off into a deep mudhole while four wheeling on the dirt roads.

I hooked my chain to his hitch and then back to my hitch

(below is a random Jeep I found on the net----Mine was set up exactly the same way---I had a ball on mine)

I pulled hard and his truck did not move much, I backed up and got about 2 feet of slack in my chain.

I gave it a 2 foot snatch (if you will) and he came out, he backed up, pulled the chain off his truck, hollered "thanks", then

hauled butt.

I dismounted and went back to take my end off and store my chain. I then discovered that snatching him out was not the only snatching performed.

I had snatched the whole cross member off and now the back end of my fuel tank was now laying on the ground.

Thank goodness nothing was ripped loose on top of the tank.

This was now the second time in less than a year that I chopped a section of barbed wire out of a fence to make a field expedient hasty repair to a Jeep.

Luckily I had most of a tank of fuel and no one to aid me. Full tank??--- I had to dig and recess my scissor jack under the heavy tank to lift it up enough to "barb wire" under it and around both beams of my frame.

I am attempting to convey the weakness of the crossmember to any ignorant Jeeper who might listen!----No one spelled it out for me----usually I get to be the point man on these kinda missions!

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post #9 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
Whatever you end up buying and installing, it will need to tie into the frame rails. The rear cross member is not strong enough to be the only attach point for a bumper, or a recovery point.



.
I meant to look into these but totally forgot. I love the design and the price is good. I'll order some. Thanks

As to the D-Rings/Shackles, if you are good at a welder build your own bumper with those frame stiffeners. I built up my own bumper and welded up some tabs I bought, eventually, I built up the spare tire carrier too.

And if not try getting a 4x6 in rectangular tubing, maybe 1/4in thick. Drill your mounting holes and mount up some bolt-on shackle mounts like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-...55835846&psc=1




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post #10 of 21 Old 10-11-2021, 08:49 PM
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According to my drawings the bolt patterns are different between a CJ and a TJ. You could contact the place that sells them and see what they can tell you.


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post #11 of 21 Old 10-12-2021, 12:17 AM
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Theres a lot of misinformation on the internet and nomenclature of parts is a common error. But once someone changes or gets it wrong and it gets repeated, (or "copied" on the net) the newer generations take it as written in stone. Kinda similar to the word "sh tload" in recent years has become "sh tton", which makes no sense but gets commonly used.
Clevises are one of those parts. Growing up in the 60s and 70s, and then using and supplying these in the military (including Jeep school); these were always called clevises. D-rings are, well as their name implies, shaped like a "D". Shackles are the same, shaped like a shackle.
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-12-2021, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like no body makes them for a CJ, So i might go and try makes some. Fabbing them up shouldnt be hard, grab some posion spyder shackle mounts, and some 3/16th plate steel from McMastarCarr. Oh and definitely getting the frame tie ins!

Now this is going to be my next question. I have a harbor freight Chicago electric Wire welder, it says max thickness is 3/16ths. That works great for the plate steel but what about the 1in thick mount? would this welder be powerful enough to penetrate into the 1in thick shackle mount?
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-12-2021, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick4320 View Post
Sounds like no body makes them for a CJ, So i might go and try makes some. Fabbing them up shouldnt be hard, grab some posion spyder shackle mounts, and some 3/16th plate steel from McMastarCarr. Oh and definitely getting the frame tie ins!

Now this is going to be my next question. I have a harbor freight Chicago electric Wire welder, it says max thickness is 3/16ths. That works great for the plate steel but what about the 1in thick mount? would this welder be powerful enough to penetrate into the 1in thick shackle mount?
Are you planning on using the 3/16 plate for the part that bolts to the crossmember? What amp welder do you have?


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post #14 of 21 Old 10-12-2021, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Are you planning on using the 3/16 plate for the part that bolts to the crossmember? What amp welder do you have?
Yeah so bolt the 3/16th steel to the cross member where the bumperettes normally mount. With the addition of the frame tie ins behind the cross member. The 3/16th plate will only be welded to the 1in thick shackle mounts.

This is my welder https://www.harborfreight.com/flux-1...der-63582.html

Max amps output 125, min amps output 60
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post #15 of 21 Old 10-12-2021, 09:13 AM
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In my opinion, 3/16" plate is not thick enough to support the use of welded on recovery tabs, and a harbor freight 125 welder will not make the required high quality welds. Recovery tabs should be installed in a slot and be Fillet welded all around on front and back by a qualified welder.

Keep in mind that a failed recovery point and/or a loose Clevis becomes a bullet that weighs several pounds should it break loose.
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