Raptor liner. Prep and discussion about application. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 63 Old 04-19-2020, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
weapon
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Raptor liner. Prep and discussion about application.

Since I am waiting for parts on my column and heater box rebuilds, I have to plow ahead with the jeep rebuild.

My CJ has new paint. My inner tub is another story. It is worn, dented, patched and all around well used. I have almost completely stripped all parts from inside, only the ebrake and wiring that leads back to the hardtop. Because of the condition, I decided to spray in Raptor to cover the imperfections.

Since the dash is out I can spray up the firewall and get into places that normally cannot be reached. So have a bunch of questions:

1 - Should I remove the ebrake and spray behind it?

2 - The hard door hinges, door hardware and shims are also out. Should I reinstall them or leave them off before spraying? Or should I just tape off the area? I am worried about the additional thickness causing issues.

3 - How far up the firewall would you recommend?

4 - I am going spray over the rail about a half inch with raptor as a protective layer to stop the damage from entry and the hard top. Has anyone else done this?

5 - I planned on spraying the interior of the rear gate (seen in the photos) also. Should I tape off and spray around the interior hinges? Any suggestions?

Any prep suggestions or things for me to watch, I will gladly take advice and have conversations.

Thanks.

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post #2 of 63 Old 04-27-2020, 12:33 PM
aggiejon
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You will be very pleased with the raptor. I did mine last spring (exterior) and am going to work on the doors, dash, and interior this spring. #1, great product. i've driven mine through thick mesquite and brush and doesn't scratch, perfect for a ranch or trail jeep. #2, it goes on super easy, very forgiving on application. #3, inexpensive. Now on to prep, prep is the key. degrease, scrub, wash, scrub, wash, wax/grease remover. start CLEAN! #2, mask everything. It doesn't overspray, but it will travel. it can be removed with reducer, just catch it before it dries. #3, start on the firewall and get the air pressure set for the textured look you want.

I ran mine at i think 50psi through the schutz gun for the black on the bumpers, body armor, etc. Raised it to 55psi for the tan body color. Was also shot at a 10% reduced mix through a modified hvlp gun. nice orange peel. just had to sacrifice the tip on a HF gun. No big deal.

Texture is all about the tip distance and psi, that is all there is to it. Like I said, my exterior is all done. Now to do doors, dash, and the visible floorboards. and the console.

oh yeah, any place where there isn't paint, or a spot is sanded through in prep (180grit scuff), hit it with self-etching primer, as it doesn't like to bond well to bare metal apparently.
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post #3 of 63 Old 04-27-2020, 12:51 PM
Jim1611
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I used U-Pol Raptor inside my tub, including the inside of the tailgate. It turned out very well. I sprayed mine everywhere inside and there was nothing bolted in place. I figured it would be best that way. Also I did this over 2 part epoxy primer that was well sanded.
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post #4 of 63 Old 04-27-2020, 03:26 PM
BrutusBlue
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U-pol Raptor or Custom Coat...both are excellent products. I lined mine the same as Jim with respect to the firewall. I did not go over the edge like Jim but I see the benefit. On the tailgate, I taped off where the exterior metal folds over the inside lip. If you use a gun with air pressure adjustment at the handle it’s easy to spray test shots on something like a board to get a feel for how you like it. Very good results and very durable.
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post #5 of 63 Old 04-27-2020, 09:52 PM
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Wow....making me feel old. I did DuraBak about 22 years ago. It has held up well. My tub is in 'marginal' shape...I have some rust in areas that are not easy to get to. Nothing related to the DuraBak.

I'm considering a new tub....and if I do, my initial thought was LineX.

Anyway,...to the OP's issue.

On the tailgate, remove the rubber gasket (it comes off easy) and go all the way to the edge.

Firewall? Make sure you have a good ground somewhere. The body is the primary ground. Make sure you have a stud or something properly grounded to use as a central ground.


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post #6 of 63 Old 04-28-2020, 05:51 AM
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My tub is fiberglass, but I sanded the entire inside before shooting. I did do all the way up the firewall and under the cowl. I recommend pulling your wiring harness, e-brake and heater duct. It's worth doing it right. I do recommend buying a couple extra bottles, to be safe. I used my left over to do the inside of my wheel wells. You can always double up on spots like the floor pan under you feet, etc, that get higher traffic. It is a great product! I am far from a professional painter and it came out looking professional!



Like everyone else said, it's all in the prep. Take your time taping it out. Tape is cheap. Redo if it's not right. I did have a friend stop by when I was doing it and he mixed for me and just kept feeding me bottles. I recommend having a helper. Getting in and out of the Jeep could contaminate the surface. I did it in my socks. I had a full tyvek suit, goggles and respirator.


If you don't have a dryer, at least make sure to drain the condensate out of your air tank.



I did use edging tape that had wire in it. This works well to cut a clean line in the liner when you pull the tape.


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I recommend using it, esp. if you are going to paint your sills. I'd be careful how thick you go on the sills, as it may affect your top and door fitment.
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post #7 of 63 Old 05-03-2020, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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all good advice. Thanks for the help.

Some more questions. I know a lot of you have full shops with large compressors.

What size portable compressor/air tank would you reccomend use while spraying?

I will need to get one and do not have an 220 outlet so a standard 110 plugin is my only option.
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post #8 of 63 Old 05-03-2020, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weapon View Post
all good advice. Thanks for the help.

Some more questions. I know a lot of you have full shops with large compressors.

What size portable compressor/air tank would you reccomend use while spraying?

I will need to get one and do not have an 220 outlet so a standard 110 plugin is my only option.
It won't take allot of volume or pressure so any decent compressor should do. You do need to keep the moisture out of the air though. One simple way to help with that is do the job before summer sets in. Also just take a fan and blow air on the tank. You'd be surprised how warm an air tank can get when the compressor is working hard. You can also buy a moisture trap too.


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post #9 of 63 Old 05-03-2020, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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It won't take allot of volume or pressure so any decent compressor should do. You do need to keep the moisture out of the air though. One simple way to help with that is do the job before summer sets in. Also just take a fan and blow air on the tank. You'd be surprised how warm an air tank can get when the compressor is working hard. You can also buy a moisture trap too.
Thanks. I can get all of that. Just wanted to make sure I could do it with low volume and not be stuck trying to find a shop.
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post #10 of 63 Old 05-04-2020, 07:15 AM
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I painted mine outside my shop, so our shop air wouldn't reach. I ended up using my little portable compressor to spray. I had to wait constantly for it to refill, but tried to time with the refill of paint. Def. recommend using the biggest compressor you can.
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post #11 of 63 Old 05-04-2020, 08:46 AM
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I used the u-pol raptor liner with the supplied gun. It was super easy and turned out really nice. From you pictures, you are pretty far disassembled. I would recommend taking a few extra minutes and pulling the e-brake and anything else that has a bolt. The job will be easier and the results better.

I used 2K clear coat over the raptor liner in the engine compartment. I wished I would have done that inside the tub and under the body too. The color has stayed brighter and the finish in slick and easier to clean.

Make sure to mask off anything within 12 feet. The little drops of this stuff flies along way and really bites in when dry.
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post #12 of 63 Old 05-13-2020, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Since my tub is a combo of old paint, topical rust, patch welds and primer.

What should I spray in first to get a uniformed layer to get maximum adherence for the raptor?

What did you use to plug the holes and threaded attachment points before spraying in the bedliner?
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post #13 of 63 Old 05-14-2020, 06:25 AM
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Since my tub is a combo of old paint, topical rust, patch welds and primer.

What should I spray in first to get a uniformed layer to get maximum adherence for the raptor?

What did you use to plug the holes and threaded attachment points before spraying in the bedliner?
Epoxy primer seems to be a good base. POR15 has also been used but I think there's more steps that way. If you use epoxy primer there is usually a limit of time to recoat it and in my case it was 3 days. After that you have to sand it and it's hard sanding. After that 3 days you lose the chemical bond. I didn't plug any holes. I ran a tap through them later if I were going to use them.
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post #14 of 63 Old 05-22-2020, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Got my primer and now an going to order the raptor. Don't want to order too much but for sure don't want order too little.

Which kit do I need? 6 or 8 quart
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post #15 of 63 Old 05-22-2020, 02:20 PM
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I did Raptor liner, black in the floors and wheel wells, yellow on the rest of the tub. The black had 100% coverage on the first coat. I let cure an hour, did the second coat. I bought the 4 quart kit in black, did 2 coats, then just kept spraying to finish the 3rd quart. I still have one left over.

For the yellow, I did one two quart kit. Not enough. I did the second two quart kit...not enough. Did a third 2 quart kit...only a discerning eye can pick up a couple spots that are a little thin. I think it's just the color choice.

I took off all the hardware, including the front clip, sprayed everything, let cure, then put it all back together. Yes the extra thickness added to all the joints. The tailgate seats really tight.

All in all, I would do it all again.
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I cut it twice and it's still too short
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