Radiator recommendation? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 40 Old 08-17-2020, 08:47 PM
Cutlass327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4703 View Post
What JEEPFELLER said X2. I don't know why I forgot to mention the cap other than it could be a mental block. When I was 16 I worked in a filling station and a guy drove in and while I filled his tank up with Firechief he asked me to check his water. He neglected to tell me it was running hot. I had a 2nd degree burn from my wrist almost to my arm pit. I now check coolant levels only when the engine is cold.

It is called a cooling system. All the components work together and any weak link can cause problems. I have a cap test kit but I can go to town and buy a $7.00 cap before I can find it. It is probably on the shelf beside the dwell meter and SWR meter.

Dwell meter... wow.



Now the SWR meter, mine happens to be setting right in front of me so I can monitor the base setup....

I want to add something on the whole burn/scald thing. I was driving a 2.3L Ranger years ago, and the water pump went out. As you know, the temp gauge reads COOLANT temp. Well, when there isn't any coolant, it reads low temps. My father and I stopped to check why the engine was acting odd, I felt the radiator, and it was cold. I popped the cap, and that steam cam out so fast it blew the cap from my hand and burnt my arm wrist to elbow! There was still water in the block, but none in the radiator, as the water pump leaked it all out. But when I released the pressure... Moral of the story? DON'T always trust the "it's cold, there's nothing in it!" thought!


Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300 TerraLow 4:1 kit, '86 D30/D44 3.54 WT axles w/Aussies, 'glass body, 33x12.5 ProComp A/T, TDK galv'd frame, 2.5 OME YJ lift - DD and weekend toy


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post #32 of 40 Old 08-18-2020, 04:27 AM
bob4703
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When I say I only check the engine coolant level when the engine is cold I mean when it has been undriven overnight or longer.

-----

Paved roads are prime examples of government over spending!
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post #33 of 40 Old 08-19-2020, 12:43 PM
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I know where my Dwell meter and timing light are (all both sets of 'em!) Here's my favorite in pic 1!

Mr. Bob gave me a cool "Willy Jeep" magnet a few weeks back.

I really like it, even though it won't stick to the body or dash. it will stick onto the storage box center-line, but mostly under the passenger seat, one of the few things I salvaged from the original body. It's now almost between the seats, just away from where people step to get to the back seat (last pic is some of them back seat people!)

It just looks at home in "Willy" (until someone likes it better than me),

I (and George) appreciate the hospitality that you and the rest of the Jeep bunch provide up there in your hometown!

---JEEPFELLER
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post #34 of 40 Old 08-19-2020, 01:29 PM
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JEEPFELLER you are welcome back anytime. George will need to find his rock first.

-----

Paved roads are prime examples of government over spending!
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post #35 of 40 Old 10-17-2020, 01:59 PM
Timaaaay83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
The above was spoken by a true South Carolina boy!

Just to add to that,

For every (1) lbs. that you raise the water pressure in the radiator (or even your pressure cooker) -----At sea level

You "give" the water 3 additional degrees of temperature before it boils .

So

A 16 lbs. radiator cap will build 16 lbs of pressure before it "vents" additional pressure (can't hold anymore)

16 X 3 =48 (48 being the additional temperature that can be achieved above open air boiling point)

Boiling point is 212 Degrees

Boiling point under 16 Lbs. of pressure is 212+48 = 260 Degrees.

Theoretically, at 259 Degrees, the water is not boiling inside the pressurized vessel

CARELESSLY Snatch the cap off at this temperature and the water instantly turns to steam as it now can boil at 212 Degrees. If I'm not mistaken, you get 1600 more times steam than the water volume generating it.

Basically, the steam will overwhelm/ grab/ Burn you instantly as it will expand so quickly.

I strongly suggest using this kind of cap, you can bleed off pressure by raising the lever up before you take the cap off!

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...diators%20caps

It is "usually normal" to remain 195 degrees or less on a CJ, unless you've done some modifying..... we really don't want to get into the boiling thing!

-----JEEPFELLER

Was just looking at my 83 CJ7 owners manual for fluid capacities and noticed on the tech spec page they indicate a radiator cap of 14 psi. I have a 16 psi on now and it's running a bit warm. Could that be (one of the reasons) why?

JEEPFELLER, the link pulls up an 18 psi cap. But I will look for one with a vent lever since I've had to clean up coolant all over my engine and garage.

You just can't fix stupid
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post #36 of 40 Old 10-17-2020, 08:27 PM
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I clicked on the closest link (above) That you quoted me on.

It brings up a "16 lb" cap at Advance Auto Parts----2 other online stores show the same cap for an '83 CJ7 w/ 258

I doubt 2 more lbs on the cap would make it run any warmer.

Did you look at the other tests/ recommendations given to Jeffncs?

If your cooling system is still OEM, If applicable maybe the fan clutch is defective or your possible older radiator has internal mineral build up, "build up" being what I see as the most common evil to the system. Professional take apart and flushing or a new radiator usually fixes the issue.

----JEEPFELLER
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post #37 of 40 Old 10-17-2020, 10:40 PM
Timaaaay83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPFELLER View Post
I clicked on the closest link (above) That you quoted me on.

It brings up a "16 lb" cap at Advance Auto Parts----2 other online stores show the same cap for an '83 CJ7 w/ 258

I doubt 2 more lbs on the cap would make it run any warmer.

Did you look at the other tests/ recommendations given to Jeffncs?

If your cooling system is still OEM, If applicable maybe the fan clutch is defective or your possible older radiator has internal mineral build up, "build up" being what I see as the most common evil to the system. Professional take apart and flushing or a new radiator usually fixes the issue.

----JEEPFELLER
Just ordered the 14-18 psi Stant safety cap on AZ, so we'll see. New 3 row radiator from Summit, so not a clog problem.

I now have two fan clutches on my desk that are too long and will trash my radiator. Returning both on Monday. US motor Works J22126 and J22149. The 149 has a shorter shaft than the 126 but still longer than the original by at least half an inch. Will be calling them on Monday to see if they have a solution.

Will also check the new Stant Superstat 195 degree thermostat I installed to see if it's opening correctly. Reviews haven't been very kind.

I've spent five and a half years restoring this 83 and the cooling system is giving me the most problems.

Not trying to hijack, but will follow up on this post to report any updates.

Thanks to everyone for the info.

You just can't fix stupid
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post #38 of 40 Old 10-17-2020, 11:15 PM
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Had issues with mine, however not as Fouled as yours, but it was my Sender. Replaced Sender and went with a Manual Gauge in the Block and no more issues, I did go Aluminum on the Rad and noticed it Cools a lot Faster when the Thermostat cycles.
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post #39 of 40 Old 10-19-2020, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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So it seems that all my issues may be coming down to a bad sending unit. Using an IR thermometer, I pulled reading of just shy of 195* at the head going into the rad. Coming out of the rad, I’m getting a temp reading of 10-15* less.

I’ll throw a new temp sensor in to see if that helps in any way.

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post #40 of 40 Old 10-19-2020, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Oh!! One more thing... thanks for all the responses. They’re very helpful.

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