Radiator recommendation? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 40 Old 08-07-2020, 03:21 AM
turbogus
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IF you have to get a new core, my 1st choice would be to see if they can get or make a copper/brass with horizontal tubes rather than the traditional vertical.


The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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post #17 of 40 Old 08-07-2020, 05:06 AM
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IF you have to get a new core, my 1st choice would be to see if they can get or make a copper/brass with horizontal tubes rather than the traditional vertical.
That would put the tanks on the sides. Is that possible in the CJ world?

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post #18 of 40 Old 08-07-2020, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
That is nasty soup, could be it had no fresh coolant for a long time. The core/freeze plugs, thermostat housing and water pump impeller are all at risk from rust. Maybe you could get a look under the manifolds for any rust staining or dribbling from the plugs. Photo is with the manifolds removed on one that started having a mystery coolant leak.
I agree completely. I think someone before me added straight water to the system and failed to use coolant. Once my rad come back from the shop (hopefully today!) I’m going to reinstall and start the full flush process.

I will say that the freeze plugs aren’t showing any obvious signs of leaking at this point and I replaced the water pump already. I’m hopeful that I caught it early enough that it’s recoverable.... time will tell!

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post #19 of 40 Old 08-07-2020, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
That would put the tanks on the sides. Is that possible in the CJ world?
...not without similar bracketry as the aluminum cross feed radiators.

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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post #20 of 40 Old 08-08-2020, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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As an update, the radiator shop called me yesterday afternoon with an update... said heís not getting the flow he expects after the flush and recommended pulling the tank and rodding the core tubes to clear the debris. I gave him the green light as itís still cheaper than a low quality replacement and an all-copper/brass radiator.

I should have it back early to mid of this week.

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post #21 of 40 Old 08-08-2020, 07:51 PM
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One thing about rodding out the radiator tubes, IF any tubes are thin on account of corrosion the rodding will puncture the tubs and you'll need a new core. This has been my experience innumerable times.

The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
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post #22 of 40 Old 08-08-2020, 08:11 PM
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I know a fellow who is a forklift mechanic and I asked him who his company used. Heavy equipment, forklifts, big trucks, etc. still have traditional radiators.
BS, the heavy equipment industry was one of the first adapters of plastic/Aluminum radiators and oil coolers.
Try not to misinform people

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post #23 of 40 Old 08-09-2020, 06:37 AM
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BS, the heavy equipment industry was one of the first adapters of plastic/Aluminum radiators and oil coolers.
Try not to misinform people
Sorry that I misinformed you so I'll further do so. Heavy equipment isn't disposable like today's automobiles therefore there is still a need to repair the radiators in the older ones. The shop I took mine to was full of larger radiators.

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post #24 of 40 Old 08-09-2020, 07:45 AM
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Sorry that I misinformed you so I'll further do so. Heavy equipment isn't disposable like today's automobiles therefore there is still a need to repair the radiators in the older ones. The shop I took mine to was full of larger radiators.
Yep, the shop I use is always full of old school industrial rads. It’ actually their “core“ business.

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post #25 of 40 Old 08-15-2020, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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As follow up for those of you that are interested...

I installed my freshly riffed and pressure tested radiator along with the inline radiator filter. I wanted to share a pic of it installed and what the screen caught after 20 mins of driving with distilled water and flush in the system. Note the rust scale at the left side of the glass tube...

It’s running a little cooler now and will hopefully run even cooler with actual coolant in the system not water.
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post #26 of 40 Old 08-15-2020, 06:09 PM
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I like your inline filter. It will probably run a little hotter when you run coolant. Water has more cooling ability than coolant. We run coolant to prevent the radiator fluid from freezing and to keep corrosion down. Pure water transfers the heat better.

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Originally Posted by Jeffncs View Post
As follow up for those of you that are interested...

I installed my freshly riffed and pressure tested radiator along with the inline radiator filter. I wanted to share a pic of it installed and what the screen caught after 20 mins of driving with distilled water and flush in the system. Note the rust scale at the left side of the glass tube...

Itís running a little cooler now and will hopefully run even cooler with actual coolant in the system not water.
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post #27 of 40 Old 08-16-2020, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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I like your inline filter. It will probably run a little hotter when yIou run coolant. Water has more cooling ability than coolant. We run coolant to prevent the radiator fluid from freezing and to keep corrosion down. Pure water transfers the heat better.

I appreciate the response... I was hoping for the opposite effect. I may find myself back with a hot running engine. Thereís not much left to replace... will a replacement fan clutch help in any way? Should I install a 185 thermostat instead of the 195 thatís in there now?

Maybe try a different water pump (this one is 6 months old).

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post #28 of 40 Old 08-17-2020, 07:29 AM
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I'm big on trusting the science and the science says properly mixed antifreeze/coolant raises the boiling point and lowers the freeze point. A thermostat does nothing to prevent overheating. Simply put 180* thermostat opens at approximately 180* and a 195* opens at approximately 195*. Thermostats get the engine to and keep it to the low end operating points. In colder weather you will appreciate this when you are waiting for the heater do its job. No matter which thermostat you use if you have a problem with overheating changing a properly functioning thermostat won't help you.

If your water pump isn't leaking leave it alone. They last for years not months.

A lot of the scale you see will wash out when you drain the water. You won't know how it will work until you put it back together and try it. Remember coolant raises the boiling point so temperatures in the 210-220* are okay in city traffic or slow speeds. When I only had an electric fan I had it set to come on at 210*.

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post #29 of 40 Old 08-17-2020, 12:36 PM
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The above was spoken by a true South Carolina boy!

Just to add to that,

For every (1) lbs. that you raise the water pressure in the radiator (or even your pressure cooker) -----At sea level

You "give" the water 3 additional degrees of temperature before it boils .

So

A 16 lbs. radiator cap will build 16 lbs of pressure before it "vents" additional pressure (can't hold anymore)

16 X 3 =48 (48 being the additional temperature that can be achieved above open air boiling point)

Boiling point is 212 Degrees

Boiling point under 16 Lbs. of pressure is 212+48 = 260 Degrees.

Theoretically, at 259 Degrees, the water is not boiling inside the pressurized vessel

CARELESSLY Snatch the cap off at this temperature and the water instantly turns to steam as it now can boil at 212 Degrees. If I'm not mistaken, you get 1600 more times steam than the water volume generating it.

Basically, the steam will overwhelm/ grab/ Burn you instantly as it will expand so quickly.

I strongly suggest using this kind of cap, you can bleed off pressure by raising the lever up before you take the cap off!

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...diators%20caps

It is "usually normal" to remain 195 degrees or less on a CJ, unless you've done some modifying..... we really don't want to get into the boiling thing!

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post #30 of 40 Old 08-17-2020, 02:55 PM
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What JEEPFELLER said X2. I don't know why I forgot to mention the cap other than it could be a mental block. When I was 16 I worked in a filling station and a guy drove in and while I filled his tank up with Firechief he asked me to check his water. He neglected to tell me it was running hot. I had a 2nd degree burn from my wrist almost to my arm pit. I now check coolant levels only when the engine is cold.

It is called a cooling system. All the components work together and any weak link can cause problems. I have a cap test kit but I can go to town and buy a $7.00 cap before I can find it. It is probably on the shelf beside the dwell meter and SWR meter.

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